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Bon appetit: de «Con las manos en la masa» a «Street food»

Diez propuestas de series y documentales gastronómicos. Clásicos modernos como «Chef´s Table» y hallazgos como «De la vida al Plato» conviven con productos más heterodoxos como «The Wine van»

apas como arroz /bonito con tomate/cochinillo, caldereta / morteruelo, lacón con grelos/ bacalao al pil pil /y un poquito perejil». Así, sin anestesia. Universo colesterol. Sin concesiones a la nouvelle cuisine y sin andarse por las ramas. «Con las manos en la masa» fue el programa de cocina que marcó época en la televisión española cuando solo había una, TVE, la pública.  Entre 1984 y 1991, Elena Santonja presentó aquel programa tierno e inocentón en el que innovó llevando a invitados como Torrente Ballester, Antonio Gala, Alaska o Miguel Bosé, antes de su abducción por fuerzas extrañas, para que demostraran sus dotes culinarias. La sintonía del programa, a la que pertenece el entrecomillado inicial, ya es historia: Vainica Doble y Joaquín Sabina cantando a la mujer en los fogones y al marido que viene cansado del trabajo y espera un homenaje sin tonterías ni «pato chino»; sin trampantojos, como diría hoy un técnico de la cosa. 

Fue Domingo Almendros en «A mesa y mantel» quien abrió calle en 1958, solo dos años después de la inauguración del canal público. Maruja Callaved presentaría en los sesenta el «Vamos a la mesa» antes de los telediarios y habría otros como «La cesta de la compra» o «Gastronomía». Pero fue a partir de 1992 cuando Karlos Arguiñano con su «Menú de cada día», un espacio empotrado inicialmente dentro de un magazine de variedades, comenzaría a invitar a España a perderle el miedo a los fogones y a inundar los hogares de buen rollo, chistes y perejil. El impar cocinero de Zarautz se trasladaría con el tiempo a Telecinco. Muchos han sido los cocineros que han tenido espacios de cocina, con mayor o menor éxito, en todos los canales, incluyendo los autonómicos, que le imprimen un marcado cáracter territorial a la cocina. Ha habido otros como «Está cocina es un infierno», «Todos contra el chef», «Un país para comérselo»,  o el serial de San Chicote tratando de enmendar negocios que la mayoría de las veces no tienen ni enmienda ni perdón. Pero es con Master Chef cuando la televisión española reinventa los programas de cocina. La historia es bien conocida: un formato franquicia del original inglés. En UK se emite  hace 30 años. En España va por su octava edición, variaciones celebrities y niños con pelusilla, aparte.

Mucho ha llovido desde la exigua oferta de programas, documentales y reportajes culinarios en nuestra televisión. Al margen de los que emiten los canales en abierto, la oferta hoy es inagotable. Cientos de ofertas: las hay prescindibles y otras que no pueden saltarse quienes tengan una mínima afición o interés por esto de comer y beber. Como la ardilla del geógrafo griego Estrabón que hace 2.000 años podía recorrer España desde Cádiz a los Pirineos de rama en rama sin tocar el suelo, hoy es posible enganchar 24 horas seguidas en el sofá sin dejar de ver programas gastronómicos. Ahí van diez pistas, subjetivas y discutibles, faltaría más.

 

Chef´s  Table


Una serie premiada y reconocida por profesionales y aficionados. Va por su sexta temporada en Netflix y camino de convertirse en el clásico moderno del género. Una enciclopedia audiovisual de los mejores cocineros del mundo. Episodios monográficos de 50 minutos dedicados a las grandes celebridades de la cocina: la realización, la estética y la factura formal de cada plano han forjado un producto excelente. Descubre otros mundos y desentraña las historias y las dificultades de cada menú. Te enfrenta a un dilema existencial irresoluble: cuántos lugares míticos para comer y qué poco dura la vida.

 

Sour grapes

Un documental (uvas agrias) que se ve como un thriller. La crónica de una importante  estafa a aficionados e inversores en vinos de alta gama. La cinta lo tiene todo: investigación, los testimonios pertinentes y las imágenes necesarias. Narra con ritmo y precisión cómo funciona el mundo de las subastas de vinos míticos, la afición de muchos magnates por coleccionar todos los incunables posibles y la habilidad de un estafador para embaucarlos. La trama va inoculando en el espectador una perplejidad creciente. Si usted es de los que acude a sala de subastas y se gasta 160.000 dólares en un La Romanée-Conti de 1945 casi mejor que no lo vea. Por si acaso.

 

De la vida al plato

Preciosista serie de ocho episodios producida por Mediterráneo (Mediaset Group) que emite Amazon prime y que hace parada y fonda en ocho restaurantes españoles en los que la historia que late detrás de cada meńú tiene tanto o más interés que el propio aspecto culinario. Es el Caso de Casa Lera, en Castroverde de Campos (Zamora), con el chef, Luis Lera, desatado en una cocina extraordinaria de caza y terruño. O el Noor andalusí de Paco Morales en Córdoba. La hermética personalidad y la excelencia a las brasas de Bittor Arginzoniz en Etxebarri. O la hermosa singularidad de El corral de la Morería y la cocina de David García, un vasco enrolado en el mundo del flamenco. Extraordinario trabajo parido por Alberto Fernández Bombín y la colaboración especial de Juan Echanove, quien le pone cara, conocimiento y alma a cada capítulo. Obligatoria

 

Cooked

El siempre lúcido e interesante Michael Pollan adapta en una miniserie de cuatro episodios su libro «Cocinar: una historia natural de la transformación». Fuego, agua, aire y tierra. Los cuatro elementos y su rol determinante en la cocina desde que el hombre es hombre. Australia, India, Marruecos y Perú. Pollan es un personaje muy atractivo, apóstol de una alimentación saludable y uno de los intelectuales más comprometidos con el futuro de la despensa mundial. Netflix suma una serie de referencia. Antropológicamente muy interesante. Va más allá del hecho culinario. Y nos recuerda que no siempre fue tan sencillo como activar la vitrocerámica con el dedo

 

El Bulli, historia de un sueño


Imprescindible para sumergirse en la película de la vida y milagros de Ferrán Adriá, Juli Soler y Albert Adriá y en el origen de aquel modesto restaurante fundado por el matrimonio Schilling en 1963 en Cala Montjoi. La serie -15 episodios- la produjo TVE y hoy la ofrece Amazon Prime. Resumiendo mucho es la crónica de un éxito, el ascenso al trono mundial de la gastronomía de un personaje irrepetible, el cocinero posiblemente más influyente de la cocina mundial durante dos décadas. Y la persona que alumbró también un nuevo camino para legiones de cocineros jóvenes. Eso sí, como escribió Benavente: «Alabados sean nuestros imitadores, porque de ellos serán nuestros defectos». 

 

Searching for umami

Dani García homenajea a Nobu Matsuisha, el padre de la fusión japo-peruana, el creador del bacalao en miso, una receta imitada a lo largo y ancho del globo. En su «A cuatro manos», unas jornadas celebradas en su atelier de Marbella, Dani García, quien también ha homenajeado a Adriá o Robuchon, concentra a un grupo de cocineros míticos (Arzak, Roca,  el holandés Jonnie Boer, Ángel León o el propio Adriá, entre otros) en una jornada que además de para cocinar y compartir servirán para explorar y debatir en torno al concepto de Umami, ese palabro japo sobre cuyo significado no se pone nadie de acuerdo. La pasó en su día Movistar y ahora está disponible en Filmin. 

 

Revolución líquida

Los sumilleres contemporáneos como aliados del cliente. La nueva  sensibilidad en el arte de entender qué busca, cuánto quiere pagar y cuáles son sus límites respecto a la posibilidad de experimentar con nuevos vinos. Una mirada contemporánea sobre la sumillería española, esa otra pata que ha ayudado durante los últimos años a alcanzar la excelencia en muchos establecimientos a través de la complicidad con el cliente y el conocimiento. El documental , de una hora de duración, en Filmin, pivota en torno a tres jóvenes representantes de esa generación: Audrey Doré, Eduardo Camiña y José Antonio Barragán. Una mirada interesante sobre esa profesión. Gente que sabe lo que dice. 

 

Street Food


Comida callejera: la cocina y las historias de los cocineros. De lo mejor que se puede ver hoy. Un disfrute para los sentidos. Calles bulliciosas, precarias instalaciones para cocinar y sobre todo mucha verdad. Sin maquillaje. Lo auténtico se abre paso en dos temporadas. La primera entrega fue Asia (nueve ciudades como Osaka, Delhi o Bangkok) y la segunda en Latinoamérica (Buenos Aires, Oaxaca o Lima). La serie es brutal porque no tiene filtros. Las historias fluyen con sus acentos, su cadencia y un infinito de esperanzas y  de cultura gastronómica en modestos establecimientos o puestos donde se cocina con conocimiento y memoria. La serie emociona. En Netflix tiene las dos temporadas. Dan ganas de probarlo casi todo. Casi. 

 

Jerez y el misterio del Palo cortado

Un trabajo impecable de José Luis López Linares, que se sumerge en el mundo de un vino singular. La magia del palo cortado es mítica. Considerado una rareza, como una especie de desviación de vinos de crianza biológica hacia una oxidación que no se encasilla exactamente entre los amontillados pero que ha dejado de ser un fino. Una leyenda hoy objeto también de discusiones eternas. La viña, la bodega y el mito. Jerez y el jerez prestan una estética aplastante a la cinta, que se puede alquilar en varias plataformas como Vimeo o filmaffinity. Tanto éxito de los grandes vinos generosos de Jerez que al final no va a haber para todos.

 

The wine van

He aquí una serie iconoclasta en torno al mundo del vino. Un tipo, Ian Chapman, un mileniall que acentúa su ignorancia sobre todo lo que tiene que ver con ese universo, recorre en su van casi 6.000 kilómetros y visita 23 bodegas en España tratando de entender y aprender algo. La que se ha rodado en nuestro país es la tercera temporada, grabada en inglés, y la ofrece Amazon. Fresco, irónico y a veces algo disparatado, el personaje representa la falta de complejos ante el vino. Alérgico a las ceremonias hace las preguntas que haría cualquier persona que se introduce por primera vez en ese circuito. Consigue un producto distinto, refrescante, honesto y que posiblemente ayude a los jóvenes a interesarse por este universo estimulante. Visita bodegas tan interesantes como Otazu,  San Román, Menade o Arzuaga. Está bien, es otra historia. Y ciertamente pregunta algunas cosas que igual a muchos nos gustaría preguntar también. 


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