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Sardinas, la nobleza azul del mar

Llega mayo, tiempo de sardinas: buena, bonita y barata. A la brasa, plancha, frita. Rica en Omega-3. Ignorada durante mucho tiempo en las grandes mesas, recupera presencia en las cartas de los mejores chefs.

a sardina es como el huevo del mar: deliciosa, barata y abundante. Ese ese rayo de plata que a veces bordea la superficie y se mueve sincopadamente por millones como si fueran una sola. Viran bruscamente como si un cerebro interconectado les instruyera sobre el camino correcto a cada segundo de navegación. La sardina es gregaria. Navega en bandadas, que pueden alcanzar hasta los cuatro kilómetros de largo, para protegerse de los depredadores o simplemente para migrar. Esos cardúmenes moviéndose como en una coreografía hollywoodense son un espectáculo visual. “El carácter insondable de la sardina”, escribió Josep Pla.

Es uno de los bocados de mar más exquisitos que existen, con permiso y pidiendo disculpas a la nobleza de los mares -besugos, lubinas, lenguados, meros y demás peces con cotizaciones económicas singulares- que viven, amén de su calidad, de ese proceso de relativización comercial asumida que dicta que una lubina cuesta y vale más que una caballa, un palometa roja más que un borriquete y un rodaballo más que un jurel. La alta alcurnia culinaria siempre la había despreciado.  Fue desapareciendo de las cartas de los restaurantes y en las casas no se compra por el complicado manejo de los olores. Error tras error. Si usted no tiene complejos ni le impresionan las modas ni pretende ser cool, dele duro a la sardina.


La sardina, como todo el pescado azul, – ¡ ay los boquerones ¡- no tienen título nobiliario pero son la auténtica nobleza de los mares. Bajo su divisa popular se esconde un bocado delicado, pleno de sabor, con una grasa adictiva, y que a la brasa, en la plancha, frita, en empanada, en una coca o en conserva, eleva el espíritu de quien sepa distinguir lo bueno de lo caro. La sardina andaluza, la parrotxa en Asturias y el País Vasco, la sardiña o xouba (más jóvenes) en Galicia, la sardela griega, la sardine gala, la sarda italiana o la sardinha portuguesa- está ahora en su mejor momento. Ha pasado el invierno, la temporada en la que las sardinas habitan los fondos oceánicos, fríos, con escaso plancton y entregadas a la procreación. Ya es mayo, ha llegado el calor, las aguas de superficie están más cálidas, el plancton abunda y la sardina no se harta de comer: está cebada, con más grasa y el sabor y el aroma disparatado. Temporada de sardinas. Es el aroma de un tiempo feliz recuerdos que ensanchan el alma. Estamos de suerte. Es el esplendor sobre una caja de sardinas de Manuel Vicent.

Ya hemos hablado del precio de la sardina. Pero su valor es mucho más elevado que su precio. Además de sus atributos gastronómicos, la sardina es rica en omega 3, esas grasas buenas que ayudan a reducir el colesterol, los triglicéridos y ayudan a que no se formen grasas en el corazón. Son unas cracks: mejoran la sequedad de la piel y estimulan el crecimiento celular. Generosas en fósforo, selenio, yodo y magnesio. Y un montón de vitaminas. No tiene ni féculas ni azúcares ni hidratos de carbono. Es sanísima y recomendable. Lo dice la Sociedad Española del Corazón. Todo eso puede hacer la humilde sardina por usted y a un precio muy razonable. Son 50 de familia –especies-, viven hasta diez años, aunque la madurez sexual la alcanzan a los doce meses, y se pueden capturar desde que miden 11 centímetros. Alcanzan 25 como máximo. Cunqueiro decía que «la sardina asada es uno de los grandes bocados de las meriendas de verano en la Galicia marinera».


Eso sí, la sardina es muy delicada. Muy perecedera. Viaja mal. Pocas bromas con eso. Por eso siempre ha sido producto de consumo preferente en la costa. En el interior se comía ahumada o en salazón. Dicho eso, quien suscribe esto, es adicto a la sardina -y las sardinillas- en conserva. Algunas sardinas de buen tamaño son insuperables y, a veces, las sardinillas resultan más finas. Pero lo que la industria conservera ha hecho por la sardina es digno de elogio. Qué digo elogio ¡ De un Óscar por haber convertido en estrella a una actriz de reparto ¡.  Escuris, Dumón, Usisa, La Brújula, Cuca, Ortiz, Los Peperetes, Ramón Peña, las braseadas de Gueyu Mar, La Tarifeña. Pesasur, Frinsa…calidad y variedad. Abrir y empujarte una lata de sardinas, en bocata o con cuchillo y tenedor si fuera menester, no tiene precio. Literalmente. Es junto a la penicilina uno de los mayores avances de la humanidad. Será que con la edad el paladar tiene a simplificarse, contrariamente a lo que pudiera pensarse. Ocurre como con algunos escritores, que pasan del barroquismo pretencioso de sus inicios de juventud a la meridiana y luminosa literatura que surge de la sencillez. Cuando descubra la sardina entenderá esa gozosa transición.

Y aunque la sardina  a la antigua usanza -brasa o plancha- fue despareciendo de las cartas, ahogada por el glamour sobrevenido de nuestra hostelería, muchos chefs de prestigio están abonadas a ellas reinterpretando sus posibilidades Por señalar algunos: Pepe Solla, en su restaurante de Poi, en Pontevedra, ofrece los lomos de sardina lañada con torrija de su caldo; Begoña Rodrigo en La salita de Valencia las prepara braseadas, con berenjena ahumada y Kisko García en Córdoba hace una mazamorra con sardinas marinadas que es brutal. Arzak llegó a meter en su menú el zumo de piña con sardinas y Carme Ruscadella, otra tres estrellas, optó por la coca de sardinas y cereza. En Finca Cortesín, Casares (Málaga) el chef Lutz Bösing ofrece hace dosa ños un menú íntegramente compuesto por platos de sardinas a 40 euros.

Por mayo, siempre hay que regresar a Camba y a La Casa de Lúculo: “Una sardina, una sola, es todo el mar, a pesar de lo cual yo le recomendaré al lector que no se coma nunca menos de una docena…No es para tomar en el hogar con la madre virtuosa de nuestros hijos, sino fuera, con una amiga golfa y escandalosa. Las personas que se hayan unido alguna vez en el acto de comer sardinas, ya no podrán respetarse nunca mutuamente, y cuando usted, querido lector, quiera organizar una sardinada, procure bien elegir a sus cómplices. Las sardinas asadas saben muy bien; pero saben demasiado tiempo. Después de comerlas uno tiene la sensación de haberse envilecido para toda la vida. El remordimiento y la vergüenza no nos abandonarán ya ni un momento y todos los perfumes de la Arabia serán insuficientes para purificar nuestras manos”.

La sardina se quema los miércoles de ceniza en muchos pueblos para marcar la frontera entre el pecado del carnaval y la purificación de la cuaresma. Poca cosa pecaminosa pueden imputársele a la cupleiforme plateada. Aunque bien visto, igual la tersura de su carne, sus ojitos brillantes y la sabrosura grasa que deja en la boca sean motivos suficientes para asociarlas al pecado y autocondenarnos a un sinfín de padrenuestros. Pequemos pues. Es tiempo de sardinas, tan abundantes, tan sabrosas, tan baratas. Tan nuestras. Arrime su ascua ¡ A qué espera ¡

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

744 Comentarios

  1. Antonio. Me has entusiasmado tanto con tu lección que voy a bajar al puerto de Moraira y buscar un diario para comer hoy sardinas. Abrazos

  2. Echo de menos una notable ausencia:el espeto de sardinas de Málaga, unico lugar en el planeta donde una simple caña por todo
    menaje, se enfrenta al fuego y no splo no se destrue por este, sino que produce un asado de excelencia.
    Ese fenómeno solo se produce en 100 km de la costa malagueña.

  3. Décadas llevo espetando a diestro y siniestro que son un tesoro del mar y que cuando falten nos daremos cuenta de su valor real. Por cierto, verbo el anterior que viene muy al caso 😉 y que me trae gratos recuerdos de mi infancia y adolescencia en Benalmádena donde no podían faltar en el aperitivo a pie de playa.

  4. Me ha dejado el artículo con unas ganas de sardinas exagerado lo que pasa que ahora mismo muy tarde para comérselas mañana

  5. Mañana que tengo unas pocas latas

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