Snobs, tarántulas fritas y croquetas: siete gastro apuntes para usted, que le gusta comer
Desde las críticas al esnobismo de algunos cocineros por el menú servido en la cumbre de la OTAN, al consumo de tarántulas fritas en Camboya pasando por la croqueta como reina del delivery. Siete gastroapuntes que no le dejarán indiferentes
snobismo y desnorte
En un brillante artículo, la periodista gastronómica Julia Pérez Lozano le ha dado duro a algunos cocineros por el menú servido en la cena de gala de la OTAN en Madrid. Lamenta que haya quien con complejo de inferioridad recurra a productos e inspiración en la cocina de otros países en ocasiones tan señaladas. Sale bien parado José Andrés, que se centró en productos y elaboraciones muy españolas: aperitivo de bacalao, naranja y remolacha, gazpacho de bogavante con verduras de verano al aroma de albahaca y aceite de oliva, espaldita de cordero a baja temperatura con puré de limón y un postre con anís de Chinchón, fresa de Aranjuez, el barquillo y el caramelo de violeta.
Y sale muy mal parado Paco Roncero, de quien la crítica gastronómica dice en Gastroactitud: “La longitud del menú de Roncero le habría permitido hacer un recorrido por todas las cocinas de España, un viaje gastronómico para mostrar la riqueza y diversidad de los territorios del Estado anfitrión. Pero no, prefirió el ceviche al escabeche, la picaña al secreto y el taco al talo vasco. Por no hablar de una gilda versionada con salmón ahumado (si no vas a mejorar el original, no lo toques). Sordera y miopía agudas que desembocaron en este menú: perfecto para cualquier restaurante en cualquier momento, pero inapropiado para la ocasión”. Y palo también para Paradores Nacionales por el almuerzo que sirvió a los acompañantes de los líderes. Un menú, con raíces, pero con una pretenciosidad técnica muy por encima del alcance de la cocina de Paradores.
Tarántulas fritas a la sartén
El consumo de chapulines (de la especie de los ortópteros: saltamontes y grillos, sobre todo), los escamoles (larvas de hormiga), los escarabajos, orugas, abejas o avispas es bastante conocido y muy extendido en otros continentes. Llama más la atención el consumo de tarántulas fritas en Camboya, un aperitivo muy apreciado entre la población local, especialmente en la aldea de Skuon, situada en el nudo turístico que conduce a los míticos templos de Angkor, Laos y Phnom Penh. El consumo de arañas comenzó en la época de los jemeres rojos, a finales de los setenta, un régimen que sumió al país en una profunda hambruna. Las tarántulas las fríen con ajo y hierbas y las sirven en bandejas de madera a 2.000 riel la unidad (medio dólar). Se empieza por las patas –dicen que recuerdan al sabor de las gambas al ajillo– y se culmina con el abdomen, de sabor rancio. Muchos occidentales se entregan a su consumo con pocos remilgos. Muchos insectos tienen las mismas proteínas y minerales que la carne y su producción es más barata.
Dabiz Muñoz, creatividad y estrés
Por un lado es admirable la inquietud permanente de Dabiz Muñoz, el triestrellado madrileño; por otro es angustioso. La cabeza debe irle a 300/h. Acaba de embarcarse en un nuevo cambio de local: abandona la zona del Bernabéu en Madrid y se muda a la exclusiva urbanización La Finca, en Pozuelo, donde con la familia Cereceda como socia, va a montar un local de 1.900 metros en un bosque para servir 40 cubiertos diarios. Dice que tras la pandemia ha tomado conciencia de que nos podemos morir en cualquier momento y que hay que disfrutar la vida y dar rienda suelta a los sueños. El espacio, dice, será polivalente, flexible, maleable y es posible que en cada estación del año se almuerce en una zona diferente. Es más, no descarta que cada plato se sirva en un espacio distinto del restaurante. Lo dicho, un estrés, un no parar.
La gastro cambia de perfil
Los 50 talentos jóvenes que van a cambiar la gastronomía ya no son exclusivamente cocineros. La lista The World’s 50 Best ha lanzado con el Basque Culinary Center la segunda edición de 50Next, en la que incluye a profesionales inspiradores, innovadores y comprometidos socialmente. Incluye perfiles como las pensadoras innovadoras Anusha Murthy y Elisabeth Yorke, de quienes dicen están agitando la reflexión y “provocando un debate en torno a los sistemas alimentarios de la India”. Hay una pastelera ucraniana que ha revolucionado el género; una experta en agricultura vertical, Jessica Naomi Fong, quien con su trabajo ha dado con una clave para proveer a Hong Kong de productos frescos o la cocinera sudafricana Mmabatho Molefe, dedicada a empoderar a las mujeres negras y a actualizar los conceptos erróneos sobre la cocina indígena. También figura un pescador griego, Lefteris Arapakis, que ha hecho de su vida una lucha contra la contaminación de los océanos o un codificador ghanés de 22 años, Lefteris Arapakis. El más joven de la lista es Mustapha Diyaol-Haqq, quien está haciendo revolucionarias aportaciones a la innovación agrícola.
En la lista hay cuatro españoles: Pol Contreras, jefe de I+D de Echaurren (Ezcaray) y Zineb Hattab, la cocinera hispanomarroquí empeñada en cambiar el concepto de los restaurantes basados en proteínas vegetales; Eneko Axpe, un físico vasco que trabaja con la NASA y en el desarrollo de proteínas alternativas y es colaborador de Eneko Atxa; y Javier Rivero de Ama Taberna (Tolosa).
La felipada, el sandwich registrado
San Sebastián se lleva habitualmente y con justicia los reconocimientos cuando hablamos de ir de pintxos. Pero hacerlo por Bilbao es una gozada impagable. En el Basaras: gilda, croquetas de bacalao y tortilla con alegría riojana; en el Rio Oja o en el Roterdam destape cualquier cazuela: Y anoten tres más: el Saltsagorri, Sorginzulo o Bar Fermín. Pero hay uno de ellos, el bar Alameda, que exhibe además una curiosidad exclusiva: el registro de un sándwich. Es la famosa felipada, que toma por nombre el del cliente, Felipe, que lo inventó en 1955. Como un espontáneo, el cliente se lanzó a improvisar un emparedado para él y sus amigos y debió colocarle al pan todo lo que encontró a la mano: pan de molde cortado en triángulos, anchoas, mahonesa de la casa, lechuga y un toque picante. Desde entonces es el pintxo con más éxito de la casa. Hasta el punto de haber registrado la propiedad intelectual de la receta, documento que cuelga de la pared del local.
Cowboy caviar, la receta viral
Antes fue el poke hawaiano, ahora llega desde Estados Unidos y con toda la viralidad imprescindible un plato destinado a ponerse de moda en verano. Le llaman cowboy caviar y viene de Texas. La receta base es sencilla: tres variedades de alubias, maíz dulce y jalapeño. A partir de ahí, las variantes se cuentan por miles. Se consume como ensalada fría, aderezada al gusto. El plato es nutritivo, fácil de transportar y barato. Hay quien le añade tomate, pepino, cebolla, aceitunas, aguacate o menta. Algunos lo aliñan con aceite, vinagre y sal: otros, con limón e hierbas aromáticas, escamas de chile y ajo en polvo. El plato da para mucho, como se ve, aunque lo del caviar debe ser una broma texana. Echen un vistazo en las redes.
La croqueta, reina del delivery
La explosión del delivery (entregas a domicilio) durante la pandemia, aunque superada la crisis sanitaria el sistema se ha instalado para siempre entre nosotros, le ha dado un empujón formidable al consumo de platos tradicionales. Más allá de las pizzas, las hamburguesas o la comida asiática, el primer plato español en ser demandado por los clientes son las croquetas. Así lo acredita el Barómetro GastroEspaña de Glovo, que está presente en 400 municipios. Durante 2021 se llevaron a domicilio 550.000 unidades de croquetas, un 90% más que el año anterior. Prácticamente, una croqueta por minuto. Almería, Alicante y Barcelona fueron las ciudades que más demandaron este plato. La tortilla de patatas es segunda en el ranking con 400.000 unidades. El bocadillo de calamares con 170.000 unidades es el tercero y la ciudad de referencia a la hora de solicitarlo no es Madrid sino Valladolid. La lista sigue, por este orden, con el gazpacho, la paella, el cachopo, los pollos asados, callos, churros, torrijas, pimientos del padrón y el pulpo a la gallega.
PD. En muchos países de Oriente Medio e India se considera de buen gusto y propio de la nobleza comer utilizando solo la mano derecha. En su cultura, la mano izquierda se utiliza para ir al baño. De hecho, en estos países no saludan nunca con la siniestra. Avisados quedan.
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