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¡ Una de callos ¡

Los callos -amados u odiados- se coronan en las mesas más elegantes: de comida de subsistencia nutritiva, barata y minusvalorada a la excelencia gastronómica.

elatinosos, escurridizos, de una textura sedosa, borrachos de colágeno, melosos, fundentes. Tramposos cuando sellan los labios con su pegamento mágico y desafiantes cuando estallan en el paladar con el picante medido. Su orografía es el mapa del estómago de un rumiante: pequeños volcanes hacia dentro y hacia afuera. Por un lado, retículas perfectas, trazadas con escuadra y cartabón, como panales de miel. Por el otro, ese acabado artístico en forma de toalla esponjosa con un aire de fondo marino en blanco que resulta inexplicable. Redecilla y librillo. Ni pizca de hidrato de carbono, ni rastro de grasas saturadas, aunque muy cargados de colesterol. Generosos en hierro, magnesio, cinc, fósforo, potasio y selenio. Son los callos, menudos, los desechos, la casquería con mayúsculas. De ternera, de cerdo, de cordero. Se hacen acompañar con patas y morro. Benditos despojos, santa casquería que tanta hambre quitó y tantas proteínas prestó a quienes no podían costearse el solomillo en la España en blanco y negro y negociaban las piezas descartadas en la puerta trasera de los mataderos, donde el hambre guardaba cola.

Los callos han vuelto. Nunca se fueron del todo, pero durante mucho tiempo fueron observados con condescendencia por la modernidad culinaria, tan entrenada para mirar por encima del hombro hasta que necesita regresar a las raíces para reaprender lo olvidado en complejos procesos que a veces son tan pretenciosos como vacuos. No encajaban en la nueva cocina española. Los callos siempre fueron unos desclasados, símbolo de la cocina de subsistencia, hijos de la necesidad, último recurso de alzada contra la desnutrición. Con esa historia a sus espaldas era difícil admitirlos en la nueva mesa de la poderosa cocina española. Los cocineros de una pieza, los cocinillas domésticos con paladar, las amas de casa y una estimable red de bares, tascas y tabernas jamás traicionaron a ese plato. Tampoco lo hicieron algunos insignes restaurantes. Y Madrid. Madrid es la aldea gala que resistió y prestigió, mimó y conservó la tradición casquera de los callos, a los que dotó de apellido y de denominación de origen. Por derecho propio merece el reconocimiento de la ciudad donde mejor se trabaja la casquería, que adquiere ese tono castizo y chulesco cuando su nombre baila en las pizarras; y se viste de grana y oro en este tiempo de San Isidro en los alrededores de Las Ventas.

La cocina de los interiores no tiene nada que ver con los diseñadores mas cool, sino con una forma de entender la gastronomía. Es una relación telúrica con la memoria y la familia. Mollejas, criadillas, sesos, entresijos, el rabo, la carrillada, los riñones, el corazón, gallinejas, las asaduras y las manitas de cerdo. Y los callos. Era la alineación que jugaba en muchos hogares de posguerra dado el bajo precio y la elevada cualidad proteica de los despojos. Hasta los ochenta estuvieron normalizados, aunque iban a la baja. Fueron siendo sustituidos por otros productos menos estigmatizados. A los personajes de Arniches, para degradarlos, se les llamaba “comedores de churros y callos”. Y decía el refrán: “Callos y caracoles no son comida de señores”. Cuentan en los puestos especializados que a partir de la década de los dos mil buena parte de sus ventas se elevaron gracias a la población latinoamericana que fue creciendo en Madrid y que es muy consumidora de casquería. La crisis también refugió de nuevo a muchos consumidores en los desechos como alternativa a las piezas más magras y caras de la ternera o el cordero. La historia se repitió. Pero los callos, en cualquier caso, no se prestan a juegos de grises: se les ama o se le odia.

En la literatura del siglo XVI y el XVII ya hay referencias a los callos. Se les menciona en Guzmán de Alfarache de Mateo Alemán. A Azorín se le hacía la boca agua con los de Lhardy, donde los comía la reina Isabel II y en cuya carta figura desde el siglo XIX como el gran clásico de la casa junto al cocido, imperial por otra parte. Ramón Gómez de la Serna los inmortalizó a su manera: “eternamente serán los callos un plato sucio, como preparado por los callistas y pedicuros”. Vázquez Montalbán, escritor de primera fila y gastrónomo reconocido, los introdujo en Asesinato en Comité central y su personaje más celebre, el detective Pepe Carvalho, los devoraría con especial placer en Casa Leopoldo, en el Raval barcelonés. Hasta en la Ilíada de Homero hay alguna referencia a un plato de tripas asadas. Vaya, que los callos tienen una categoría, como todo lo que la literatura glosa y recoge por popular y, paradójicamente, excelso.

Como cualquier plato mítico -sí, de la mitología culinaria- los callos cambian de nombre y de receta en cada confín. Junto a los madrileños, los más reconocidos son las tripes a la mode de Caen de Francia (sobre todo en Normandía) o las trippe de blue alla milanesa de Italia. En España hay todo tipo de variedades, aunque predomina el guiso clásico fijado por la tradición madrileña: callos de ternera, chorizo, morcilla, panceta, laurel, especias al gusto, ajo, guindilla y salsa de tomate. Y olla lenta y larga para reblandecerlos. Un punto delicado en el guiso de callos es el uso del garbanzo. En Madrid, ni olerlos. Es típico en cambio incorporarlos en Andalucía o Galicia. La receta vizcaína suele incorporar cebolla y puerro, pimiento choricero, pan e incluso jamón. En Cataluña le agregan también hortalizas como la berenjena, especias como el clavo de olor y el tomillo y vino blanco. También es usual que los hagan con cap i pota (morro y pata), un clásico del recetario catalán. O están los “callos ovetenses del desarme”. Pero en cualquier caso el éxito de un guiso de callos empieza por la limpieza concienzuda de las tripas con agua, un chorreón de vinagre y mucho lavado bajo el grifo. Hay quien lo frota como si fuera ropa, procurando que suelte el sabor potente del animal que puede malograr el plato. Y así puede recorrer España de punta a punta sin soltar la cuchara ni quitarse la servilleta.

El otro salto que han dado los callos es la nueva consideración que se le da en las cartas de restaurantes de prestigio. Es Javi Estévez, de La Tasquería, en Madrid, una estrella Michelin, quien más ha evolucionado el trabajo con la casquería y guisa los callos de cordero con curry y garbanzos. Y hay clásicos como el Mesón de doña Filo en Colmenar de Arroyo (Madrid), el Bar Alonso junto al Auditorio Nacional, el Asador de Abel en Asturias, la Venta Moncalvillo en La Rioja, el restaurante La gitana en Gijón. Ovillo en Madrid tiene fama, junto a otros clásicos imprescindibles: los de El fogón de Trifón, donde Jorge utiliza los vegetales como espesantes, utiliza guindilla en vez de cayena y les pone grasa rancia de jamón. Los deja reposar dos días. Hasta 140 kilos hace cada mes. Son riquísimos los de La cruz blanca de Vallecas o los que hacen en La manduca de Azagra añadiéndole pata y morro. El último Campeonato mundial de callos que organiza el cocinero asturiano Pedro Martino en La Guisandera de Piñera, lo ha ganado Andy Bustamante, del restaurante Tragatá de Ronda.

Algunos restaurantes han innovado la receta. Bistronomika los trabaja con chile cascabel y en La catapa los hacen con guindilla y kimchi. Ya ven, un mundo propio dentro de un universo. Gloria y honor a los callos. Yo iba ya comprando el pan.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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