Porque Mare no hay más que una
Juan Viu explota la despensa del mar de Cádiz y la memoria familiar para ofrecer un sugerente menú cargado de sabor y significado en su nuevo restaurante
uan Viu es un chaval de 28 años, talla XXL, escondido tras un mandil que le prolonga el cuerpo. Tiene cara de niño bueno y sonrisa de niño malo. Si te encaramas a su metro noventa y te asomas a sus ojos ves la playa de la Hierbabuena y el Pinar de la Breña de Barbate, la geografía mítica donde echó los dientes. Barbatistán, le llama él. Si le observa las manos verá que se le han vuelto anfibias de tanto manipular pescado. Entre diestra y siniestra le cabe el Atlántico entero, con sus especies del Estrecho, con el color de cada pez y con el rojo sangre de sus agallas; con las olas duras de una levantera y la moral de frontera del mismo mar que besa las costas de África. De allí viene Juan Viu. Aquel es su santuario, su origen y su destino. Y en el corazón y la memoria lleva el nombre de su abuela Trini, la que le metió el venenillo de guisar el mar y a cuyas faldas andaba pegado desde niño jugando a cocinar. En perfecto y justo homenaje le dedica a ella el plato cumbre de su menú Pureza: sofrito de la abuela e, irónicamente y como guarnición, morillo de atún rojo a la sal, la pieza más codiciada del túnido de las almadrabas de la costa de Cádiz. “La casa de mi abuela olía a sofrito, a papas aliñás, a remojón con naranjas y bacalao, a gazpachuelo y los días de lluvia olía a polea con canela, pan frito y clavo”, recuerda el cocinero.
Hace solo mes y medio que ha abierto su nuevo restaurante. Lleva por nombre Mare, en doble evocación familiar y oceánica. En un pequeño y diáfano local de la Plaza de a Candelaria de Cádiz, en el corazón de la ciudad noble y vieja, donde estuvo el Código de barras, hoy en otra ubicación y con una estrella Michelin. Y aun siendo tan sencillo el local, tan blanco, no oculta la complejidad de lo que allí se trajina. Entre lomos de sardina, espinas de pez limón, el galete y las ventrescas del atún o el adobo del cazón, hay un mar de conocimiento y recuerdos en la mesa de trabajo. La propuesta de Viu es honrada. Y directa. Y sin trampas ni trampantojos. Los fondos de guisos marineros -y algún guiño a los fondos y aliños de los cárnicos- mandan. Son contundentes, sabrosos y profundos. Están cocinados con paciencia y medida, o lo que es igual, con tiempo y templanza. No necesita impostar nada porque todo está en el plato y a la vista. Las cosas saben a lo que son aunque hay mucha inteligencia detrás de cada planteamiento.
Con sus 28 años ya sabe qué es salir trasquilado de un negocio. Y conoce algunas mieles – finalista a mejor cocinero revelación en 2022 en Madrid Fusión así como reconocimiento importante por la crítica especializada- y como acaba de abrir Mare, se le supone que ha aprendido lo más importante tras un tropezón: a ponerse de pie. Formado en la Escuela de Hostelería de Sevilla y con experiencia de trabajo en Aponiente de Ángel León y en Lillas Pastia, de Carmelo Bosque –“mi maestro, quien me enseñó en qué consiste cocinar”- en cuya cocina entró con 17 años y salió con 20 para dirigir la cocina del Hotel La Breña, en Los Caños de Meca. En Cádiz anda como pez en el agua, del mercado a la cocina, de la cocina a las tabernas, de la taberna a la playa y vuelta a empezar, con el domingo como día consagrado a Barbate y su gente.
El menú de apertura (14 pases, 75 ajustadísimos euros) fluye y cambia con la oferta del mercado y las piezas que le trae Eduardo Guardiola, posiblemente el mejor asentador de pescados y mariscos del sur de España o lo que compra en la pescadería de Paco Tigre, en el mercado de abastos de Cádiz. Apuesten a que en un mes la carta habrá vuelto a mutar, siempre persiguiendo el punto exacto de cada pescado y afinando su cocinado. Pero en tan poco tiempo ya hay varias propuestas llamadas a no abandonar la carta: el sofrito de la abuela con “guarnición” de morillo de atún; el tartar de calamar guisado en frío con una mayonesa de la reducción el propio guiso y mantequilla tostada o los piñones de la Breña con gamba blanca y mojama, de nuevo la tierra y la sencillez de un piñón por delante del supuesto producto estrella del plato. Un menú que homenajea a la cocina clásica gaditana, forjada entre el mar y las casas, donde una humilde acedía se eleva a la condición de mito si está bien frita y la tortillita de camarones se convierte en floritura. Y son las madres y las abuelas las que cocinan con Viu. Y en su menú se acuerda de los pescadores, del mar y de la cultura que ha construido pueblos marineros con un acervo gastronómico imperecedero.
Abrir boca con una versión de la caballa caletera asada con piriñaca, la reina del Barrio de la Viña durante el verano, es como gritar ¡Viva Cádiz¡ y la sardinada barbateña con pimento verde frito -a su manera, claro- convertido en una delicatesen finísima es rememorar las noches de sardinadas en las playas allá por la Virgen del Carmen. Ofrece cigalas a la roteña, un guiso con base de tomate y cebolla generalmente destinado a la urta; así como un clásico: el rape al pan frito, que es lo que es aunque no parece lo que es, pero está todo el sabor y la textura. Es curioso y desconcertante al principio el En blanco de pescadilla de la bahía, hasta que lo pruebas y se vuelve adictivo, entre el fondo de la cabeza de la pescadilla, la coliflor y el gazpachuelo. Y la brótola frita en sobrehúsa homenajea a un plato que, desde el siglo XIX, aprovecha el pescado frito sobrante del día anterior con un guiso que incorpora ajo, laurel y vino blanco. Sirve Viu el galete (la carne gelatinosa del hueso inferior de la cabeza del atún, entre la facera y la parpatana) estofado con salsa de rabo de toro y es imperial: para pedir un táper o un volquete, según el hambre.
Para postres, tres ideas. Un melocotón en escabeche con almendras, una finura; y queso con higos. Pero lo grande viene al cierre: el papelón de dulces del abuelo Juan Martínez, de la antigua pastelería de La Palma, en el Barrio de la Viña. Petit four a la barbateña. La familia de Viu es la propietaria de la confitería Tres Martínez en Barbate, donde se elaboran hoy esos dulces y donde la madre del cocinero, Pepi Martínez, oficia con autoridad y sapiencia como maestra pastelera. Bizcochos calados, petisús de crema, milhojas…hasta cien elaboraciones ofrecen en este obrador que ha cumplido ya 125 años. Pero la estrella en Mare es la roquita, un bocado impresionante que en la despedida te devuelve al mar al fundir una masa de mojama de atún, bonito y hueva de maruca con chocolate y almendras fritas. La abuela, el abuelo y la madre. La santísima Trinidad a la que Juan rinde honores a diario. La bodega es variada y con propuestas para todos los bolsillos, con amplia selección de vinos generosos y tranquilos de la tierra. Las copas y el menaje están cuidados al detalle. No quiere que nada falle y se nota.
En menos de dos meses, Mare se ha convertido en lugar de peregrinación de chefs y gastrónomos, de críticos y gastroinfluencers que se han a acercado a Cádiz a conocer qué se está cocinando en lo nuevo de Juan Viu. Y allí anda, como un niño grande jugando con cuchillos de pescado y minúsculas pinzas, con fondos profundos y los pescados que el litoral gaditano le entrega con cada marea. Disfrutando y haciendo disfrutar, en una pequeña cocina donde, sin embargo, cabe entero el mar de Cádiz y una familia numerosa.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Cantera de la Escuela Superior de Hostelería de Sevilla
Muy bueno para Cádiz que se posicionen proyectos de excelencia como este del joven XXL. Gran profesional , extraordinarias manos para la cocina y excelente cabeza para la creatividad.
Nos queda esta visita pendiente en Cádiz. Gran artículo que nos invita a poner este restaurante en la lista de los muchos templos por descubrir.
Gracias, Antonio. Tus recomendaciones son de obligado cumplimiento :).
Transmitir emociones a través de un menú está al alcance de pocos cocineros. Tras leer al Coloso, Don Antonio, ya mismo estoy reservando para conocer al Artista y proponer que la Gastronomía se una más de las Bellas Artes….
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