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La escuela del vino, de la tierra y de la vida

Alejandro Muchada, arquitecto y viticultor, firma un libro dedicado a los viñadores que evoca una forma de entender la viña, de transmitir saberes y de estar en el mundo

ace tiempo que una palabra se va imponiendo con fuerza en el ecosistema mediático especializado dedicado el vino: viñador. Hermosa forma de llamar a quienes trabajan la viña, a quienes la guardan. Vigneron, en Francia; o viñero en otros países. La palabra te acerca a un mundo en el que el hombre se deja los días entre racimos, pendiente del sol y la lluvia; de las plagas, las bestias y el filo de la navaja para la poda. David Léclapart clava la definición al explicar que un viñador es quien trabaja con la cabeza y actúa con el corazón. El conocimiento es imprescindible para conocer la viña, entender qué necesita para llevar la cosecha a buen puerto, para vendimiar y vinificar, para presentar y vender el vino. “Y para saber hacer cuentas”, añade. Léclapart es uno de los apóstoles de la biodinámica y un elaborador de referencia en sus parcelas de Montagne de Reims, en el premier cru de trépail.

El corazón es el que complementa a la cabeza para “estar en armonía con la viña, hablarle, admirar la belleza de un amanecer, de un atardecer de la nubes (..) respirar los olores de la tierra húmeda tras la lluvia o la hierba cortada tras la siega, dejarse fascinar por el colorido de las flores (..) y despertar todos los sentidos para degustar el vino, compartiendo momentos únicos con otros vignerons”. Porque, citando a El Principito, sostiene Léclapart que “solo se ve bien con el corazón”.

Hijos de la tierra y el vino

Lécaplart prologa un libro titulado Viñadores, hijos de la tierra y el vino, firmado por Alejandro Muchada e ilustrado con una belleza gráfica melancólica por Ismael Pinteño. Lo edita Abalon Books, premio nacional de Gastronomía 2021 por el libro Disfrutar, un trabajo enciclopédico en el que el fundador de la editorial, Jon Sarabia, dejó el sello de esmero y excelencia con el que trabaja sus proyectos.

Muchada tenía en la cabeza el libro desde 2011, cuando como mochilero por Francia, conoció a Léclapart en su pueblo, Trépail, en la champaña. Cuenta Muchada – que por entonces era arquitecto doctorando– que por aquel entonces las inquietudes espirituales le alejaban de la arquitectura y lo acercaban a la tierra. Sin una especial atracción por el mundo del vino, terminó seducido por el trabajo del viñador francés y su entrega a la viticultura ecológica y biodinámica.

Miraflores, Sanlúcar

Regresó entusiasmado al marco de Jerez, su tierra, aunque nació en Extremadura, y aplicando los conocimientos adquiridos en Francia y beneficiado por la vieja escuela de viticultores jerezanos, se puso a la obra: “Ambos respetan los saberes ancestrales y los ritmos de la tierra, las plantas y el cosmos. Y comenzó un camino para mí, entre estas dos escuelas”. Hoy Muchada cultiva cuatro hectáreas de viñedo adaptado a la agricultura biodinámica -un enfoque holístico que tiene en cuenta los ciclos cósmicos y la cría animal, tratando la finca como un organismo que lo integra todo- en el Pago de Miraflores, en Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz), un proyecto que comparte con su mentor, David Léclapart, bajo la mirada maestra de Juan Morales, experto en viticultura tradicional. Sus vinos, elaborados con uva palomino y alguno con moscatel de Chipiona, se elaboran sin velo de flor -la agricultura biológica clásica de los jereces- y sin fortificar con alcohol vínico añadido. Estánmuy bien considerados y puntuados por los expertos.

Desde los ocho años en la viña

El libro profundiza en la idea de los viticultores tradicionales como hijos de la tierra, “nacen, crecen y envejecen en la viña: empezaban con ocho años pintando los cortes de la poda” y desde entonces empiezan a empaparse de las lecciones de sus mayores. Es el libro, en general, un canto al oficio, a la experiencia, a la comunión con la tierra y a la transmisión natural de saberes. Un ecosistema donde la paciencia, la delicadeza y la maestría cuenta, “una escuela oral y humana, donde el vínculo entre el maestro y el discípulo es muy fuerte” y se transmite de generación en generación.

No hay liturgia irrelevante. Cada una tiene su trascendencia, su momento y su ejecución. Los cinco pases de azadón cada año para abrir la tierra, compactarla y removerla; la obligación de pisar sobre tus propias huellas cuando andas por la viña para no aplastar innecesariamente la tierra; la poda tradicional, el injerto en espiga y en yema con navaja afilada y precisión de cirujano; el saber mirar la luna; la siesta en el campo y la irrupción en la taberna al acabar la jornada sin limpiarse las botas para presumir de la albariza blanca y calcárea pegada a la suela. Esas son las labores y costumbres de una profesión histórica en las zonas productoras. Aprendida con el tiempo y escuchando a quienes saben porque escucharon primero a quienes sabían más que ellos.

Los mandamientos del viñador

Los viñadores tienen sus mandamientos. Pasar la mayor parte de la jornada en el viñedo, conociéndolo y tratándolo. Necesita valentía y confianza para sacar un producto de sus propias uvas, dice Muchada. Podar a las claras del día observando cada cepa e intuyendo cómo crecerá y calibrando la calidad del fruto que ofrecerá. Un viñador debe saber de todo: de mecánica, soldadura, maquinaria, viña, vino, idiomas. “Es un trabajo polifacético y entretenido, le gusta investigar y mejorar su equipo”. Este tipo de agricultores confía y respeta la planta “la trata como un sujeto autónomo” así minimiza los tratamientos y los movimientos. Es obligado entender lo que llama el autor “los ritmos de la vida”, desarrollar un vínculo especial con los animales; se le exige poseer una mirada artística porque “el vino y la agricultura son un arte para él”. Y ahí no acaba la cosa: para este hombre del renacimiento viñero se reclama intuición, cierta espiritualidad, capacidad de organización, habilidades comunicacionales para transmitir su oficio y por supuesto saber disfrutar comiendo y bebiendo bien tras un duro día en el campo. Ismael Pinteño, plasma en sus acuarelas ese mundo que frisa lo onírico con trazos y colores evocadores y las luces exactas que cualquiera que haya atardecido un día en una viña reconocerá.

Rito, actitud y saberes

Hay otras virtudes sin las cuales un buen viñador no avanzaría. Es crítico para Alejandro Muchada que sepa transmitir a través del vino el vínculo que mantiene con su parcela y que tenga capacidad para degustar el vino “no solo con la nariz y la boca, sino con todo su cuerpo, lo siente desde la coronilla hasta lo pies”.

Es un libro que cuenta con la sensibilidad de quien ha encontrado una nueva vida en la viña los procesos, las vivencias, la historia y la reciedumbre de quienes llevan haciendo vino desde tiempos ancestrales. Un viñador que es siempre el mismo viñador si cumple con los ritos, comportamientos y saberes que relata el arquitecto que descubrió que no hay formas más perfectas e irrepetibles que las de la naturaleza, que no existe edificación más compleja y estimulante que la de un buen vino; y que no hay escuelas con más maestría que la del viejo viñador con el rostro agrietado por el sol con manos encallecidas y, a la vez, de terciopelo.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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