Queremos vermú a precio de vermú
La inflación y el marketing vermutero dispara los precios y achica las cantidades
Como otra burbuja imparable, el vermú vive momentos de gloria. España es un país de burbujas, y no precisamente las del cava. Da igual que sea la inmobiliaria o la de los patinetes eléctricos. Es que somos muy noveleros. Yo, el primero. Este vino, de puro origen europeo -el rojo de Italia y el blanco de Francia, aunque vermú significa ajenjo en alemán- ha terminado por explosionar gracias a una renovación completa del contenido y el continente. Algo similar a la burbuja de las ginebras y las tónicas durante los diez últimos años o a la de las cervezas artesanales. En el horizonte se anuncia la revolución de la sidra.
Curiosa sofisticación para una bebida popular donde las haya, el vermú de toda la vida, que incluso logró darle su nombre a la hora del aperitivo. Sinécdoque vermutera. En el norte se le conoce incluso por el cariñoso apelativo de «marianito». De grifo, con un lamparazo de soda, con hielo o sin ella, ha sido el rey del aperitivo para muchas generaciones de españoles.
La base tradicional de vino blanco ha sido hoy generosa e imaginativamente ampliada: tintos, jereces -Pedro Ximenez o palomino- , rosados etc. Y a los aderezos clásicos – ajenjo, cascara de naranja, clavo y azúcar– se le añaden hoy todo tipo de raíces, botánicos, hierbas, flores, frutas y especias. Estupendo. De hecho, la mayoría de los nuevos vermús están riquísimos. Mis favoritos son el Yzaguirre clásico y sobre todo el reserva de la casa, el Miró de Reus, el de Martínez Lacuesta, uno cántabro por nombre Siderit, el clásico madrileño Zarro; uno estupendo de Morata de Jalón (Zaragoza) llamado Turmeón, que incorpora una parte de vino envejecido en toneles durante 80 años; el Golfo, que tiene su gracia, el Oliveros reserva de Bollullos Par del Condado (Huelva); y el gallego Sardino. De los de Jerez y la zona gaditana me quedo con tres. El Atamán (Barbadillo), el que más me gusta de todos: seco y amargo con bases de manzanilla; el Sanatorio de Manuel Aragón de Chiclana; el Lustau y la Copa de Gonzalez Byass, con canela, clavo, con una nariz a la que un enólogo llamaría «fondo de iglesia». De los foráneos, un clásico, el Carpano fórmula antica, con base de moscatel de Piamonte,
Citaría otra veintena, todos de nivel, pero el tema no es este. El tema es el precio del vermú por copas. La irrupción de nuevas marcas -producto renovado e innovado, marketing actual- ha llevado a los bares y restaurantes a una inflación del precio que los aleja del consumo popular y que muchas veces no se justifica. Precio, calidad…y cantidad. Parecen olvidarse que se trata de un vino, no de un destilado de malta. Hoy el célebre «Dosdedos» no es el pistolero más rápido al oeste del Río Pecos, sino la medida universal que utilizan para el vermú. Si le sumamos los dos cubitos de hielo y el twist de naranja, estamos pagando el vermú a precio de oro: desde los 4 a los 7 euros. Salvo locales especializados, la mayoría de botellas que circulan andan entre los 6 y los 10 euros. No tiene sentido el precio de la copa. En muchos casos, con tres copas se paga la botella. Además el abuso vermutero ofrece un efecto curioso de observar: a medida que te alejas de Madrid sube la cantidad que te sirven en la copa y baja el precio que te cobran. ¡Cuánto daño ha hecho el centralismo¡
En fin, que bienvenidos sean todos los vermús del mundo, con su innovación botánica, su experimentación organoléptica, su afán de trascendencia, su cuidado estilismo marquetiniano, sus leyendas de nuevo cuño y su canesú. Porque la verdad es que la mayoría están buenísimos. Pero, en los bares, que sea a precios razonables. Queremos vermú a precio de vermú. Si no es mucho pedir.
En Reus un vermut Miró o Yzaguurre, su ración de aceitunas rellenas y otra de patatas fritas 3’5 euros.
Totalmente de acuerdo. Esa moda de servirlo como si fuera un whisky me saca de mis casillas. ¡Qué tiempos aquellos en que era bebida de viejunos y te llenaban el vaso canónicamente y como si fuera gratis!
Comparto tu reivindicación amigo
Ya está bien de tener que tomarlo en casa por aquello de lo ilógico del precio fuera
Que aunque siente bien en tu terraza, también tenemos derecho a tomarlo en los bares., en sus terrazas y al sol y rodeados de buena gente.
perdón
Olvide los datos
así es Pepe. Gracias por escribir. Un abrazo
es que pasamos de lo clàsico razonable a la postmodernidad onerosa. No hay forma ¡
Es que, querido, eso es vida. Y hay sentido común. Viva Reus y sus vermús y sus Martís¡
Con permiso de Reus y de JM Martí, el sancta sanctorum del vermut, aprovecho este espacio para reivindicar un templo del vermut en el Maresme, en Vilassar de Mar: la taberna El Espinaler, fundada en 1896.
Un vermut de mañana de domingo “a la antigua”, periódico en mano y compartiendo con los amigos un vermut negro, en sus diferentes versiones: solo, con hielo o con sifón (no me critiquéis mucho por ello), acompañado de aperitivo de lata: almejas, berberechos, navajas, mejillones, anchovas, boquerones, todo ello rociado por la salsa original de L’Espinaler…. y a un precio aún razonable. Un regalo de los dioses!
Gente razonable, como tú . Viva REUS
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Great Canadian Entertainment owns and operates 25 destinations across Canada, featuring more than 18,000 slot machines, 600 live table games, top-rated restaurants, and live entertainment. The 40 Burning Hot video slot is expected to be released sometime in late 2017, hitting sites that utilize software by EGT Interactive. While we haven’t seen a final version, all indications are that the game will use the same basic look and format as the original Burning Hot machine. That means we expect to see a green color scheme with dark reels and simple but well-designed symbols. The layout is traditionally quite logical and clean: while these graphics aren’t going to blow anyone away, they’re very functional and certainly attractive enough to feel professional.
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