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La interprofesional cárnica denuncia una campaña de una empresa de hamburguesas vegetales por utilizar la palabra “carne”. En disputa, un mercado de miles de millones de euros, el control del relato y el favor de los consumidores
omer carne o no comer carne. Saber si lo que se come como carne es carne o solo parece carne. Carnes de mis carnes. Ser o no ser. Parecerlo pero no serlo. Esa es la hamletiana cuestión de nuestro tiempo. E incluso podría ser esta otra: comer carne de origen animal o comer lo que una parte del sector alimentario llama carne pero aunque es de origen vegetal. O una tercera: comerse una hamburguesa de vacuno con una pinta extraordinaria o zamparse una hamburguesa hecha con plantas con la misma buena pinta, incluido el sangrado, que hasta hace poco parecía un atributo de origen animal pero que ya no lo es porque la industria de las hamburguesas vegetales ha incorporado una proteína -heme- procedente de la soja que imita fielmente ese efecto. Tiempos complejos, en los que cada vez menos cosas son lo que parecen. Ni las gulas son angulas aunque en la mayoría de cartas no se cortan y le colocan el nombre del alevín de la anguila sin complejos ni recato; ni el queso de soja sale de ninguna ubre; ni el calabizo es chorizo, porque está hecho de calabaza y cebolla.
La poderosa e instalada industria cárnica de toda la vida y la no menos poderosa aunque reciente industria de los productos vegetales (plant based) andan a la gresca por defender un importante mercado de consumidores. Los carnívoros de toda la vida lo tienen claro. Los vegetarianos (rechazan el pescado y la carne) y los veganos (tampoco ingieren huevos, manteca, miel, leche, yogur, nata, mantequilla o quesos ni productos de origen animal) también. Y hace ya unos años se abrió un nuevo hueco de mercado con los llamados flexitarianos, que son personas que mantienen una dieta vegetariana pero ocasionalmente consumen productos de origen animal (carne, pescados, mariscos) y que hoy se identifican con consumidores que mantienen una dieta equilibrada y saludable. Repetimos, el mundo es complejo: también existen los crudiveganos (lo toman absolutamente todo en crudo para proteger las propiedades de los alimentos), los frugívoros (solo consumen frutas y, si acaso, algunas semillas), los ovolactovegetarianos ( no ingieren nada de carne, pescado o marisco, pero sí huevos y lácteos), los pescetarianos (solo vegetales y pescados ), los pollotarianos (una dieta basada en pollo y pavo) y así hasta el infinito, incluyendo las dietas sátvica, macrobiótica o la paleodieta, que consiste en algo así como en comer como nuestros ancestros, obviando cualquier alimento procesado. Eso sin contar con los seguidores de Paul Mcartney, que impulsó el Meat Free Mondays (los lunes sin carne) o los seguidores de la Vegan Before 6 (veganos antes de las seis).
Pues el mercado es tan complejo y la oferta tan amplia como las opciones de alimentación de cada uno. Por primera vez, los productos de origen animal están perdiendo importantes cuotas a favor de las llamadas carnes vegetales. Hamburguesas que parecen de carne, que las más de las veces saben la carne y que además cumplen una función social idéntica. Parece evidente que la industria de los productos vegetales no trata de convencer a quienes no consumen productos cárnicos, que es su público natural, sino a quienes consumiéndolos pudieran encontrar satisfacción en un oferta que basada en vegetales y plantas ofrece una experiencia de consumo -y sorprendentemente, en algunas marcas, de sabor y textura – tan placentera como para que se planteen cambiar de bando.
Los españoles comemos unos 50 kilos de carne por persona al año, según los datos del ministerio de Agricultura. Aunque la FAO, dependiente de Naciones Unidas, casi dobla la cifra. La recomendación de la OMS es que debería consumirse un máximo de 21 kilos. Estos datos convierten a España en el primer país consumidor de carne en Europa y el séptimo del mundo. Pese a todo las cifras son decrecientes Y vienen cayendo desde hace más de una década. Solo los dos años de pandemia truncaron la caída y provocaron un incremento episódico de consumo cárnico.
En cualquier caso, este es un asunto que va más allá de la mera nutrición. Las cuestiones medioambientales, el maltrato a los animales o la calidad de las proteínas tercian en el debate. Simplificando mucho, las dos recompensas que encuentran quienes optan por alimentarse con productos vegetales que imitan a los cárnicos son de tipo práctico (salud) y filosófico-moral (cambio climático y animalismo). Sin desdeñar un Style life que hoy es ganador. Porque en estos tiempos, el sector cárnico ha sido injustamente señalado como maldito por los consumidores más políticamente correctos. Las recientes polémicas sobre la cría de ganado lo atestiguan. El progreso, salvo excepciones, también se aplica hace años en las explotaciones ganaderas; y merecen el mismo respeto quienes deciden alimentarse alimentarse con plantas y vegetales y los que se amarran a una chuleta como si no hubiera un mañana. Evangelistas no, gracias.
En 2020 la industria de los productos vegetales ganó un importante contencioso. La UE les dio la razón frente al sector cárnico, que pretendía que no utilizaran la palabra hamburguesa (proponían otra: disco) o salchichas (querían que se llamaran cilindros) para sus productos vegetales. El debate, incluido dentro de los debates de reforma de la política agraria común, (PAC) radicaba en si hamburguesa, salchicha, o escalope se definen por el contenido o por el formato. En Bruselas optaron por lo segundo. Es un formato. Y por lo tanto existen las hamburguesas, la salchichas o los escalopes vegetales. De fondo, la discusión era más profunda, no se trataba solo de discernir entre lo que es y no es carne: la decisión abría un mercado enorme a las Veggie Burgers en vez de condenarlas a un nuevo marketing costoso e ineficaz. ¿Por qué quién se toma un cilindro vegeatal? Y ahondaba también en materia de protección de los consumidores. En cambio, los tribunales de justicia europeos prohibieron llamar mantequilla o leche a los productos fabricados con tofu o soja. En cambio, sí permiten que la leche de almendra lleve ese nombre tal cual. Misterios bruselenses.
La última polémica solo tiene unos días: dos lonas de 15 metros de alto y 35 de ancho en un fachada de la plaza de la Cebada, la más céntrica de La Latina, y otra en la calle de Alcalá, en Madrid, con la palabra “carne” en el centro. Y una fotografía de una suculenta hamburguesa vegetal. El subtítulo reza: “Heura, 100% vegetal”. Heura es una de las marcas de referencia de las hamburguesas vegetales. Las organizaciones interprofesionales del sector cárnico interpusieron un denuncia por el uso de la palabra “carne”. Es un episodio más de la pugna, que irá in crescendo, entre un sector que ve amenazada su cuota de mercado y los principios sobre los que ha jugado toda la vida -cuándo solo había un jugador- y una industria pujante que va al choque para arrebatarle clientes. La industria cárnica se defiende como puede de una campaña de ataques organizada e incesante. La industria de la carne vegetal se siente amparada por lo que podríamos llamar los nuevos tiempos, cuya música les suena y saben que llevan el viento a favor. El juego de contrarios parece indicar que es una pelea de lo viejo/poco saludable /agresivo contra los animales contra lo nuevo/ healthy/ sostenible. Todo juego de contrastes radicales interesados encierra una manipulación de libro. En esta pelea se juega mucho más el control del relato del buen rollito.
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