¿Cuándo se jodió el chorizo?
Alegato desacomplejado a favor del chorizo ibérico de bellota, un manjar injustamente incinerado en el altar de la alimentación saludable y lo políticamente correcto
ubo un momento en el que se jodió el chorizo como se jodió el Perú de Zavalita. Alguna mano negra debió decretar que el chorizo representaba lo peor de la despensa patria. Si servidor fuera Miguel Bosé afirmaría que esto es una conspiración. Colesterol, grasa, calorías, sal, azúcares…¡ boooommm ¡ ¡ el corazón, ay, el corazón ¡ Y con el corazón no se juega. Esa es la Estación termini del mal comer. Ácidos grasos saturados, carbohidratos, conservantes…un scrabble de palabrejas que convierten un bocado exquisito en un manual de física orgánica que te quita el apetito. Aunque a la vez que se denosta al chorizo y demás subproductos del cochino, la bollería industrial, las palomitas o las hamburguesas a 1,80€ siguen campando a sus anchas. También se han llevado sus patadas en las espinillas, que todo hay que decirlo. Pero posiblemente con más razón y argumentos de los utilizados para atacar al chorizo español. Y no se trata de ignorar las consecuencias para salud del abuso del chorizo ni de ponerlo a la cabeza de la health revolution. Pero es justo no meterlo en el mismo saco de otros embutidos elaborados de aquella manera y ni siquiera con los chorizos de ínfima calidad.
El chorizo de calidad es una cosa exquisita. Para su fabricación solo se utilizan las partes nobles del cochino: paletilla y cabecero, presa, pluma y demás despieces de calidad. Sin aditivos. Un manjar aliñado o adobado con ajo, pimentón – ese aporte americano: el pimiento rojo que vino del otro lado del Atlántico y que empezó a utilizarse molido en Extremadura- y sal , curado y secado al aire de nuestras sierras. Caprice des dieux dicen los franceses para cosillas mucho más mundanas, pero con ese pisto habilidoso y altanero que se dan los franceses para sus cosas. Y bien que hacen. Deberíamos hacer lo mismo. Porque el chorizo bueno es celestial. Su reino no es de este mundo. Es un conjuro colorado que primero te entra por los ojos, tiernamente atado a su cuerda, irregularmente cilíndrico y desafiante dentro de su tripa natural -las más de las veces, de ternera- , que te amarra por el aroma y la textura, que después se te pega al paladar convirtiéndolo en una dehesa y que ya te acompaña de por vida. Son recuerdos de niño, aquel bocata de chorizo que devórabamos a media tarde, cuando se tenía más hambre que Falete en un Naturhouse. Es un embutido muy español. Hablamos del chorizo de calidad, claro. De cerdo ibérico criado con bellotas en montanera. Igual en África el león es el rey de la selva: pero en España el rey de la dehesa, que es nuestra selva mediterránea, (y con permiso del toro bravo) , es el cochino ibérico de pelaje negro de varias razas: el entrepelado de Córdoba, el negro lampiño de Extremadura, el colorado manchado de la sierra de Huelva, la Duroc-Jersey de Guijuelo (Salamanca) o el cerdo ibérico retinto, que está muy extendido. En estos animalitos, que se alimentan básicamente de bellotas, el 54% de la grasa de su carne es ácido oléico. Otra cosa es el chorizo de cerdo blanco. De las razas Landrace, Large White o Pietrain, sobre todo. Cochinos blancos, que aunque también tienen su aquel, se alimentan de piensos y producen unos embutidos de menos calidad. No obstante la alimentación de este tipo de cerdo también ha ido evolucionando obteniendo un producto más equilibrado y saludable.
Pero algo ocurrió, un big bang choricero, que provocó que el superpopular bocata de chorizo fuera estigmatizado. “Saber qué pasó es la pregunta del millón”, afirma Roberto Rituerto, maestro choricero de Embutidos Alejandro, “cuando yo era un chaval tener un chorizo en la despensa era signo de opulencia, pero llegaron los tiempos de los cuerpos Danone, los médicos empezaron a quitar grasas, sales y pan, y el chorizo pagó el pato”. Cierto es que hace cincuenta y sesenta años hubo productores que popularizaron un producto que se parecía más a una tajada de carne fresca que a lo que conocemos hoy como chorizo de calidad. Las condiciones sanitarias y de control de temperaturas eran inexistentes en las fábricas. La normativa recomendaba incluso el uso de nitritos para mantener la seguridad alimentaria del producto. Y encima había cierta cultura del hambre en España, lo que favorecía el consumo de esas barras largas y gordas de chorizo. Pero la industria española del embutido ha hecho sus deberes durante décadas y hoy ofrece calidades excelentes. “Hoy todo lo que no esté orientado hacia lo saludable tendrá dificultades”, añade Rituerto, quien defiende que sus productos no son solo saludables sino que dos yogures tienen más grasa que 50 gramos de sus chorizos, que, de tan magros, parecen lomos aunque no lo son.
El cocinero David de Jorge se considera “un choricero empedernido” y atribuye también la mala fama del chorizo a un afán de hacer perdurar los productos todo el año: “Como nos hemos vuelto locos pues pasan estas cosas. El foie gras solo se podía comer en navidad, que es su época, pero ahora hay foie gras hasta en las gasolineras y se fastidió el invento. Ha pasado con todo y también con el chorizo, se le ha tratado de alargar la vida innecesariamente”. Gran defensor de la variedad de chorizos que se hacen en España dice recordar con especial placer “los que llegaban a mi casa desde Lugo” aunque opina que es en La Rioja “donde mejor se cuida el chorizo: son muy finos trabajando el adobo, la picada y la curación”.
En efecto, el panorama choricero español es un espectáculo. Cada comunidad produce el suyo, con pequeñas variantes más allá de la raza del cochino. En León lo hacen en forma de herradura y la mayoría de las piezas ligeramente ahumadas y oscuras. El núcleo de la produccion está en los municipios de Bembibre, Astorga, Molinaseca y Soto de la Vega. Un ejemplo, el chorizo de Palcarsa, de San Justo de Vega (León) que obtuvo en 2019 la designación de mejor chorizo del mundo. Exquisito.
Si quieren probar algo muy muy grande, acudan al Limit o al Belloto de Embutidos Alejandro (Logroño). No hay palabras. Calidad máxima. “Chorizo extremo” le llaman. Una obra de arte hasta en el envase. El chorizo perfecto de sabor, ligeramente picante, equilibrado en todo y muy magro. Solo lo hacen con las partes nobles del cochino: cabecero y paletilla, pimentón, especias y sal. En esta casa hacen también un chorizo troncal de estilo pamplonica que es la repera. Estas piezas pueden encontrarlas en los exclusivos Harrods o Fortum & Mason de Londres. Sin salir de tierras riojanas, el chorizo extra picante de Doña Concha, que aunque lleva algunos conservantes, está para desmayarse.
Los clásicos de Joselito en Guijuelo, o el de vela de La Estrella de Castilla, también de la misma localidad salmantina; y por supuesto el chorizo de bellota gran reserva de Arturo Sánchez, también en Guijuelo, hecho con presa, pluma y secreto ibérico: pidan un palé. Tenemos los clásicos de Cantimpalos (Segovia), que utilizan pimentón de la vera. Entre ellos, el de La Venta Tabanera es exquisito. En Galicia suelen ahumarlos también y se encuentran algunas variedades como el chorizo ceboleiro de Celanova (Orense), que incorpora cebolla y da mucho juego en guisos y potajes; e incluso en algunas localidades sustituyen la cebolla por calabaza. Coren, que es una cooperativa de cooperativas que está presente en casi toda Galicia, elabora un chorizo con carne de cerdo criado con castañas que tiene un sabor especial; y Atilano, de Lugo, ahúma con leña de roble unas piezas riquísimas de carne de porco celta.
En Navarra el afamado chorizo pamplonica, de picada fina y un 60% de grasa aproximadamente, colonizó los bocadillos españoles durante años. Los chorizos culares de bellota extremeños están al nivel de sus excelentes jamones; y no son despreciables los chorizos arroyanos, del norte de Cáceres, que son la alegría de cualquier guiso. En Cantabria tiene fama el chorizo dulce de Potes. Y en Andalucía, además de los culares de la serranía de Huelva, con los canónicos de Sánchez Romero Carvajal y Lazo a la cabeza, o el Alta expresión de Covap en el Valle de los Pedroches (Córdoba) apuntemos los clásicos de Ronda, el chorizo casero Vélez de la Sierra de María (Almería) al que además del adobo tradicional añaden pimientos secos, y algo distinto: el chorizo de cabra que hace Cabra malagueña en Casabermeja, al que le añaden algo de panceta de cerdo como aporte de grasa. Uno más, una exquisitez insular: el chorizo que hace Porc Negre en Mallorca, un producto de excelencia con la raza porcina autóctona mallorquina. En cualquier caso, podría llenarse un volquete con chorizos españoles de calidad sin temor a fallar en uno solo.
El sector tiene, entre otras, dos asignaturas pendientes: conseguir que en restaurantes de nivel se sirva una ración de chorizo de bellota como se hace con el jamón, sin complejos, “porque el chorizo de calidad no es un producto de mesón de carretera, es excelencia gourmet al nivel del mejor jamón”, enfatiza Rituerto. Lo segundo es convencer de que su ingesta no provoca muerte súbita ni te envía el infierno por decreto, aunque, como todo en la vida, es cuestión de equilibrio y moderación. De hecho, muchos expertos destacan que la calidad de la grasa de los embutidos depende de la alimentación del cerdo. En el caso de los que se alimentan con bellota, en su perfil lipídico (la concentración de grasa en la sangre) abundan los ácidos grasos monoinsaturados, similares al aceite de oliva. En cambio, cuando se alimentan de piensos generan más ácidos grasos saturados, menos recomendables. O sea, criterio. No es el chorizo, es el tipo de chorizo. Como lo es el tipo de aceite, de vino o de salazones. Y no me gusta señalar, pero podríamos hacer la lista de los embutidos con más grasa o, lo que es peor, los que se elaboran con productos CSM, o sea Carne Separada Mecánicamente. Los restos que quedan una vez extraída la mejor parte del animal. No quieran saber más.
Se lo han papeado toda la vida los currelas en en el andamio. Fue un símbolo patrio durante muchos años. En algunas ciudades norteñas se recibe el carnaval comiéndose un bocata de chorizo. Es un quitahambres en días de fiestas y vistió muchas mediasnoches en los cumpleaños candorosos de los setenta y los ochenta cuando se celebraban los cumpleaños en casa y todos tan felices. Los 300 extras que contrató Anthony Mann en 1961 para rodar El Cid cobraron 100 pesetas y un bocadillo de chorizo. Y en 1998, cuando voló al espacio, Pedro Duque, hoy ministro de Ciencia, además de las pastillas de caldo concentrado tipo avecrem y esas cosas que se suponen que lleva los astronautas, decidió embarcar en la nave unos chorizos de León. Ea. Haciendo Marca España en el espacio exterior. Un crack. Así que vamos a dejarnos de cuentos con el chorizo español. Y no estamos hablando de los pobladores de Soto del Real. Esos, que con su pan – y una lima- se lo coman.
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Hoy, por obligaciones familiares, he tenido que desayunar a las 6.00 de la mañana.
Son las 14.09 y leyendo al Goloso ( que cada día lo borda mejor ), las tripas me estån haciendo más ruido de lo normal y el apetito se me estå disparando.
Disfruto una enormidad recreåndome en tus reflexiones culinarias cargadas de experiencia y lucidez. Un fuerte abrazo.
Impresinnante
Un buen chorizo, un bollo de pan bien cocido y una navaja.
La comida de campo perfecta.
Enorme, Antonio. No solo has conseguido evocar maravillosos momentos en los que me deleitaba con algunas de las variedades tratadas, sino también mi futura y humilde aportación como socio para la ya imprescindible “fundación de defensores a ultranza del chorizó patrio”. Fuerte abrazo
Anónimo el enero 2, 2021 a las 5:40 pm
Enorme, Antonio. No solo has conseguido evocar maravillosos momentos en los que me deleitaba con algunas de las variedades tratadas, sino también mi futura y humilde aportación como socio para la ya imprescindible “fundación de defensores a ultranza del chorizó patrio”. Fuerte abrazo
Cuanto he disfrutado y aún disfruto con un bocadillo de chorizo. Haría mío este escrito, si fuera capaz de escribirlo. Estoy de acuerdo con esta defensa a nuestra tierra y costumbres. Que no se pierdan. ¡Viva el chorizo!. Enhorabuena Antonio
Gracias Juanma¡ Abrazos
Vamos a poner en marcha esa fundación. Serás el socio protector número 1.
Ome por dió
Gracias ¡
Gracias amigo y a Disfrutar ¡
. Larga vida al chorizo!!!
Fabuloso artículo, como todos, Antonio. No puedo estar más de acuerdo con esta asignatura pendiente: «Conseguir que en restaurantes de nivel se sirva una ración de chorizo de bellota como se hace con el jamón, sin complejos», Amén.
Querido Antonio, he tenido la suerte de compartir mesa y mantel en infinidad de veces contigo, por lo que no me sorprende nada tu saber culinario (y de otras tantas cosas), pero reconozco que no dejas de impresionarme en cada entrega de El Goloso en llamas. Muchas gracias, amigo. Un abrazo fuerte.
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