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El ají: el diablo multicolor que te hace comer en 3D

Anilú Cigüeñas traza en Mejor si pica el perímetro técnico, químico, gastronómico e incluso cultural del significado de los picantes americanos en nuestras vidas

l picante es uno y muchos a la vez. Si hablamos del legítimo, inimitable y recargable ají – o chile o guindilla o como quiera llamarlo- procedente de América, es como hablar del rey del capsicium, del gran dictador de la escala Scoville, la que mide el grado de picante. Y sobre todo es hablar del más seductor, polifacético y profundo constructor de sabores, experto en ahormar el plato que toque y de concederle a la receta la chispa mágica de la que carecía. El mayor ingenio gastronómico que ha dado la tierra en su especialidad. En Europa se llaman pimientos y en España guindillas y salvo algunas de Padrón (pimientos pequeños) que pican a su arbitrio galaico, el resto es casi inofensivo. En nuestro país se trabaja más como pimentón, ya molido y a veces ahumado. Paprika en Hungría (también molido), peperoncino en Italia y en Asia cambia de nombre como de país: kosho, gochu, mirch, entre otras denominaciones. Pero hablamos del mismo: el ají. El diablo multicolor que puede elevarte al cielo o darte pasaporte gratis a infierno.

Comer en 3D

Tanto prodigio merecía un libro que no solo reflejara los ya conocidos principios técnico-químicos del prodigio que saltó el charco hace cinco siglos en los galeones españoles y portugueses y cuyo prestigio y consumo se ha consolidado en occidente durante los últimos 30 años. Por eso Anilú Cigüeñas, comunicadora gastronómica, ilustradora y cocinera peruana afincada en España, ha añadido varias capas al libro “Mejor si pica” (Planeta Gastro) hasta convertirlo en un manual interesante, documentado y con rock and roll. “Un plato que lleva ají eleva la experiencia del comensal, algo así como comer en 3D”, afirma la autora.

Anatomía, mitos y leyendas

La primera parte del libro es un acercamiento con objetivo angular al mundo de los ajíes. Su anatomía: pedúnculo, la carnecita, placenta (la fábrica del dolor), las semillas y la puntita. Una aproximación a los mitos y verdades: el picante no es un sabor, sostiene la autora. Otros expertos, como el cocinero e investigador mexicano Lalo Plasencia, sostienen que “en realidad ninguno de los sabores son solo sabores sino estimulaciones directas a los receptores neuronales que existen en las papilas gustativas” porque a su juicio “la idea de la percepción del sabor y los cuatro sabores básicos más el umami es un modelo básico, arcaico y prejuicioso”. Entre los mitos desmontados por Cigüeña figuran que el ají no es una verdura sino una fruta o que pican porque la sustancia picante es su arma para repeler a sus agresores, que los ajíes no producen ulceras aunque pueden empeorarla y algo crucial para los seres humanos bajo el influjo flamígero de un chile con mala leche: el agua no solo no calma el picante sino que lo esparce por toda la boca ya que la capsaicina no es soluble sino liposoluble por lo que la única solución -relativa- es ingerir algún lácteo (leche, queso, yogur e incluso aceites o frutos secos).

16 cocineros de referencia

Se ocupa la autora de los maridajes: Benjamín Padrón hace en su Licorería Limantur de Ciudad de México una delicia llamada Margarita al pastor que incorpora además de la columna vertebral de la margarita clásica ingredientes como el chile serrano, miel de ágave y sal de cilantro. El libro ofrece una pequeña ficha de una treintena de ajíes en varios continentes con el perfil aromático, los usos y las presentaciones de cada uno de ellos. Así como incluye un abecedario que igual te explica que el relish británico es una salsa que lleva frutas, verduras, encurtidos y picante como que el shichimi togarasi es una mezcla japonesa de especias que incorpora el chile rojo además de piel de cítricos, sésamo, semillas de cáñamo o algas nori. Para la segunda parte, técnicas de conservación, cocción y aprovechamiento.

La publicación añade otro atractivo: sugerencias de recetas y uso de 16 referentes de la gastronomía mundial, entre ellos Albert Adriá, Sacha o David García Pereda, de España; algunos peruanos como Micha Tsumura o Luis Arévalo; mexicanos del nivel de Santiago Lastra, Benjamín Padrón o Elena Reygadas; y Diego Cabrera o Barda Lepes por Argentina, entre otros.

Cinco propuestas. Un posible menú

Ceviche de gambas, Paco Méndez, restaurante Come (Barcelona)

Una interpretación cevichera con gamas rojas, aceite de cilantro y dos salsas que se superponen y juegan distintos roles. La salsa verde: tomatillo verde, lima, pepino, aceite de oliva, aguacate y jalapeños encurtidos. Y una denominada “Vuelve a la vida”, a la que agrega clamato, salsa Perrins, kétchup, lima, santana, aceite y jugo Maggi.

Empanada de cangrejo adobado, Santiago Lastra, restaurante Kol (Londres)

El chef trabaja en esta receta la base de los adobos mexicanos: amargor, picor y ahumado. Con este plato, Lastra se inspira en las populares empanadas de la costas del Golfo. La potencia la aporta el chile guajillo, el chile mulato y el chipotle en el adobo; y el aceite de guajillo que incluye también chile de árbol y chile habanero seco. Hay que manejar las cantidades con precisión para no saltar por los aires

Chiles en nogada, Carmen Ramírez “Titita”, Restaurante El Bajío (ciudad de México)

El chile en nogada es una cumbre de la cocina mexicana y casi su plato nacional, aunque solo se consume en temporada de granadas y es originario del Estado de Puebla. La versión original recrea los colores de la bandera de México a través de los ingredientes. Esta versión de Titita, con los chiles asados al fuego directo hasta oscurecerlos, incluye más de treinta ingredientes para coronar de sabores el chile poblano que soporta la receta.

Pescado sudado acevichado, Mucha Tsumura, restaurante Maido (Lima)

“Este plato es un encuentro del sudado con el miso y el ceviche, un plato de invierno levantamuertos”, explica gráficamente el autor. El pescado (congrio y pulpo) se hace ahumado y a la parrilla y la salsa lleva una base de cebolla, pasta de ají panca, tomate shiro miso, ponzu y hondashi.

Sorbete de melón y ají limo, Fiorella Butron, Restaurante Stone Edge Farm Estate (California)

Para postre, una refrescante mezcla de melón y ají limo, aunque puede emplearse mango o la fruta de preferencia, que constata que los ajíes no tienen límites en la cocina. Se añade, azúcar, espumoso, limón y sal.

Si quiere ponerle música a la experiencia gastronómica, busque en Spotify la lista colectiva con el nombre del libro que han creado entre la autora y los colaboradores: Caetano Veloso, Joe Cocker, charanga tropical, Calle 13 o Lila Downs le harán bailar al ritmo de los chiles.

Es el ají el producto que realmente podría haber coronado a Cristóbal Colón, como escribe con sentido e ironía el cronista gastronómico Óscar Caballero en un exquisito prólogo: “a Colón le hubiera bastado su primer desembarco para pasar a la historia de lo cotidiano. Al idioma le trajo sus dos primeras palabras centroamericanas: canoa y hamaca. A los golosos, el chocolate. A los ansiosos, el tabaco. Y a los depresivos, el ají”. Recuerda Caballero un hecho, anecdótico, real, luctuoso y demostrativo que ilustra el alcance del reinado del ají más allá de su disfrute en vida: “El antropólogo norteamericano Hubert Bancroft recogió este necrodato durante la invasión francesa de México (1861-1867): los cadáveres del invasor, que no comía pimientos, eran devorados por los lobos, que sin embargo respetaban los restos mortales de los mexicanos porque exudaban ají”.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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