El gin-tonic pierde gas
El boom español del combinado de ginebra y tónica pasó a la historia. Su consumo cae desde 2018. Los bartenders admiten los excesos con las mezclas y la ornamentación durante los años dorados, pero defienden que aquella moda ha impulsado el gusto por la coctelería
l principio fue la ginebra. Invento holandés, no inglés. Después fue la tónica. Se incorporó el hielo y un refinado twist de cáscara de limón con sus aceites esenciales. Y Después llegaría el principio del siglo XXI para convertir este clásico global de la coctelería en la probeta de ensayo de verduleros y fruteros. Cuando el combinado dio el triple salto con red no dejó barra por colonizar ni copa sin decorar; convirtió a los camareros en supuestos bármanes y a los chefs en aprendices de botánicos. Transformó de pleno el consumo del gin de toda la vida hasta convertirlo en algo aspiracional. Muy cool. Molaba tomar gin-tonic y que te vieran tomándolo. El cubalibre de toda la vida era, entonces, viejuno. Solo los nostálgicos ajenos al mundo del glamour se mantenían fieles. El boom sumió a los consumidores en la perplejidad: cada día se topaban con nuevas marcas de ginebra y de tónica y no sabían si elegir la gin de salicornia con remate de juncos de la ribera del Manzanares y tónica al estragón de Eurasia o aquella de la botella verde tan molona que incorporaba 45 botánicos y se coronaba con un rizo de peladura de zanahoria. Qué tiempos. Vivíamos en la complejidad. Decidir era más difícil que unas oposiciones a notaría. Y ahora estamos a punto de cantarle el gorigori al gin-tonic.
Pero ¿Qué ha pasado con el gin-tónic D.C. (Después del Covid), justo cuando las plazas vuelven a llenarse de probos ciudadanos que celebran su derecho constitucional a salir a la calle como si no hubiera un mañana y el virus ya no existiera? Lo cierto es que 2020 es un año muerto a efectos de la estadística. Pero el combinado ya venía dando señales de agotamiento. Los datos de la Federación Española de Espirituosos indican que en 2018 las ventas en general se estancaron y en 2019 la venta de ginebra bajó un 3,3%, aunque mantenía aún una cuota del 20% del mercado. Eric Laborde, director general de Pernod-Ricard España ya proclamaba en 2019: “Se ha acabado el fenómeno de la ginebra”. Habrá que esperar a que vuelva un año “normal” para medir la profundidad del pinchazo. Las ventas totales de espirituosos en 2018 fueron de 365 millones de euros en España. A una distancia sideral del registro histórico del sector de 435 millones en 2003.
En cualquier caso, es fácil ver que aunque las barras siguen bien surtidas de ginebras de todos los gustos, tallas y colores, la variedad es menor. Se van fijando las marcas de siempre y otras nuevas que posiblemente perdurarán. Los bármanes continúan hilando figuras decorativas sobre mixturas imposibles aunque algo más austeros, ya alejados de la exhuberancia de comienzos de siglo. Más contenidos. A ojo de buen cubero se observa un decaimiento del amaneramiento rococó que tanto seducía hace quince años. No obstante, el arte del gin-tónic en España (verdadera patria del boom) queda ya muy lejos de aquellos gin-tonic de chiringuito de los ochenta del siglo anterior en el que el camarero introducía cariñosamente con el dedo una gruesa rodaja de limón en el vaso, un limón que, frecuentemente, había estado en contacto con el pescado de la nevera.
El portal barman.news.com ofrece cuatro claves para entender el éxito del gin-tonic en España: versatilidad (gamas variadas de estilos); frescura (tiene menos azúcar que otros combinados y combate la sed, aunque seguro que para tal fin la OMS sigue recomendando el agua); complejidad (es un cóctel experiencial); y la personalización (gin-tonic a medida del gusto de cada uno).
Cuando el físico holandés Franciscus Sylvius inventó el brebaje, allá por el siglo XVII, pensaba antes en un remedio para aliviar el lumbago o los cálculos biliares que en los juegos florales que se sucederían siglos después. De hecho originalmente la ginebra se vendía en las boticas. Aunque también se lee por ahí que ya se utilizaba la destilación y el enebro en el siglo XII contra la peste bubónica. En cualquier caso, la ginebra, en esencia, no es más que el resultado de la destilación de la cebada (u otros granos) y la aromatización de ese aguardiente con bayas de enebro, que viene del latín (juniperus communis). Aunque afirmar eso hoy sonroje. Porque hay ginebras secas (las más clásicas, estilo London), cítricas, florales, herbales, especiadas e incluso afrutadas. Yo diría que John Wayne se bebería una muy seca recién bajado del caballo y sin sacudirse el polvo; y Tom Cruise, una muy floral para celebrar las tres cabriolas de Top gun. Cuestión de estilo.
Posiblemente fue la Bombay Shapphire la primera ginebra premium de nuestra era. Daba dos saltos importantes: incorporaba diez ingredientes, entre ellos la angélica, el cilantro, las bayas de cassia o la almendra. Y entraba en el mercado con un envase -lo que ahora llaman packaging- de color azul transparente muy atractivo. Incluía una fotografía vintage de la Reina Victoria de Inglaterra, quien por lo visto inició la larga relación entre el gin y la corona inglesa. La ginebra se hizo más compleja. Y al mercado español, disputado por dos tónicas -Schweppes y Nordic-, llegó una tercera, disruptiva, más cara, y que contó rápido con el beneplácito de los bartenders y el público en general. La Fever-Tree, que irrumpió en 2005 con una fuerza imparable en el mercado con dos fortalezas: sus ingredientes naturales y su relato. El inventor de este agua tónica más suave y que potenciaba el sabor del combinado en vez de taparlo, Charles Rolls, se fue a la frontera entre Ruanda y el Congo, a buscar la última plantaciones del árbol de la fiebre, del que se extrae la mejor quinina del mundo. Lo demás ya es historia.
Hoy es posible comprar más de 450 ginebras en España, entre ellas muchas españolas. No hay ciudad en España sin Palacio de Congresos ni sin ginebra propia. Como novedad, esta primavera está llegando al mercado la ginebra con baja graduación de alcohol: 20º frente a los 46,3º habituales. Los expertos defienden que al mezclarla con la tónica y el hielo la concentración del alcohol del combinado se sitúa en márgenes de graduación por debajo del vino y más cercanos a la cerveza. Aún es pronto para saber si cuajará la propuesta. Las marcas han elegido España como territorio de pruebas.
El sector está a la espera de la recuperación de la hostelería para comprobar si el yintoneo sigue perdiendo fuelle o se recupera con los nuevos años veinte post covid. Otro gallo hubiera cantado si la quinina además de combatir la picadura de los mosquitos hubiera sido eficaz contra el virus. O mejor no pensarlo. Aunque nunca se sabe. Ahí está Isabel II de Inglaterra, que se mantiene a base de arenques, filetes gaélicos y el gin-tonic de las cinco. Y en abril cumplió 94 tacos. El gin-tonic ha muerto. ¡Viva el gin-tonic¡
(https://www.uppers.es/estilo-de-vida/gastronomia/gin-tonic-moda-pierde-gas_18_3138195074.html)
Hablan los bartenders
- ¿Se ha acabado el boom de los gin-tonic?
- ¿Se han cometido muchos excesos en las mezclas, los añadidos y la decoración de los gin-tonic?
- ¿retorna el estilo clásico, más austero, el gin-tonic de toda la vida?
Patxi Troitiño, 47 años. Bartender de Aquelarre (San Sebastián) /Stick cocktail (Rentería) y profesor en Basque culinary center.
“La gente ya no quiere ginebras de colores”
-1- “Creo que el Gin-tonic va a seguir siendo uno de los postres más vendidos en España por mucho tiempo: No hay nada como acabar una buena comida con ese combinado digestivo y refrescante. Lo que es obvio es que van air desapareciendo algunas de las 450 ginebras que existen. Solo se quedarán las que han calado más. En todo caso hay que tener en cuenta que el consumo de alcohol en España es cíclico. Estuvo de moda el whisky, después el ron, ahora los amargos como el vermú y así. Pero no estamos ya en el pico alto de la moda de los gin-tonic
-2- “Fue excesivo aunque también fue positivo porque se pusieron de moda y se normalizó su consumo incluida la gente de menos de 50 años. Los locales no especializados con tres trucos de magia convertían ese combinado en algo chulo. Y eso ha impulsado una segunda edad de oro de la coctelería. Desde la Ley seca no había un boom así. La parte negativa es que se pusieron de moda muchas cosas sin sentido solo porque marquetinianamente venían bien. Además dijimos cosas incorrectas: bajas la tónica por la cuchara no solo era anti higiénico sino que no cuidaba el carbónico, aunque al cliente le gusta que se pare el mundo para que lo atiendas a él y eso firmaba parte del espectáculo. Pero eso va bajando. Parecía que si no tenías 400 ginebras no podías abrir un bar.
-3- “Sí, los de siempre, los amantes del gin-tonic no quieren historias. Quieren una buena ginebra, hielo y un twist de limón verde que bien servido huele como los ángeles. La fórmula magistral ya estaba inventada. Así que volvemos a lo más clásico. La gente ya no quiere ginebras de colores. Joder, que hasta Leo Harlem hizo un monólogo de los gin-tonic”.
Rocío Sánchez, 43 años. Bartender. Directora y copropietaria de la coctelería San Telmo (Gijón). Ex bartender en la coctelería Varsovia.
“A la gente le gustaba ver la copa llena de cosas y ahora hay un efecto rebote”
-1- Creo que esta pasando el boom de la ginebra. Hemos hecho una limpieza de ese botellero que resultaba hasta bizarro, se nos iba de las manos. Íbamos a lo loco, cada vez llegaban más ginebras con los botánicos más raros. Ahora están quedando las marcas clásicas de toda la vida y que van a seguir estando; y han pasado al segundo plano marcas esporádicas: cada día llegaban tres gin nuevas al bar. Era inmanejable. Ha habido una reducción notable.
-2- Sí, creo que sí. Llegó un momento en el que los bármanes nos dedicamos a intentar mejorar los gin-tonic. A la gente le gustaba ver la copa llena de cosas y ahora hay un efecto rebote. Hemos tomado conciencia de que era todo muy exagerado. Ahora algunos clientes cuando le llevas la copa limpia se desilusionan un poco y hay que explicarles el porqué. Pero lo ideal es acompañar esas ginebras con los aromas que ya están justificados. Necesitan poco más.
-3- Lo que ocurre es que estamos volviendo a poner bien las copas. Hemos aprendido en las barras. Nosotros y los clientes. Lo ideal es lo que se hace ahora. Utilizar buena materia prima, un buen hielo, una buena tónica y una buena ginebra. En todo caso un guiño con un twist que resalte la personalidad del producto. Poco más, sin sobrecargar nada más. Es un servicio más austero. Ahora se consume con más cabeza, disfrutando más de la ginebra, sin el barroquismo que invadió nuestras barras. Ese es el camino adecuado. En parte somos responsables y en parte los clientes, que querían copas muy adornadas y llenas de cosas cuando la mitad de las cosas eran totalmente inservibles.
Sergio Freile, delegado nacional para concurso panamericanos de coctelería y secretario de la asociación de bármanes de la comunidad de Madrid. 49 años.
“Me han llegado a pedir un gin-tonic de Sprite o Red Bull”
-1- “Piensa que va ya para 14 años que todo estalló. Llegó un momento en el que hubo mucha saturación. Hay casi 600 marcas registradas, Aunque hay que decir que gracias al gin-tonic ha habido un auge del boom de la hotelería y eso ha sido bueno. Pero eso también influye en el consumo de otro productos. Pero para la gente ya no es lo mismo. Todo va por ciclos y aunque sigue habiendo mucho consumo de ginebra es cierto que está cayendo”.
-2- “Yo tengo una edad pero cuando tenía 17 años ya tenía un bar y cuando me ponían un gin-tonic le ponía una rodaja de limón, que es lo que la gente quería. Después todo fue un poco excesivo: ponían anís estrellado, uvas, fresas, hierbabuena. Todo valía. Mucha gente lo hizo sin criterio alguno. Yo cuando trabajo una ginebra la estudio, veo su estilo y decido qué le puede ir bien como añadido que la aromatice sin taparla ni perjudicarle. Pero a raíz de aquella moda salieron líneas d productos complementarios como tónicas, botánicos, siropes. En fin, se creó un mercado alrededor del combinado”.
-3- “Igual sí , se está volviendo a una línea más clásica. Muchas han dependido de un servicio correcto. Hubo un tiempo en el que una angostura para aromatizar bastaba: pero todo se disparó. Me han llegado a pedir un gin-tonic con Sprite o Red bull. la gente asociaba la gin a cualquier tipo de combinado. En Esspaña somos de dulce, eso es evidente. En cambio el gin-tonic es amargo y la gin tiene alcohol, por lo que no creo que haya tantos bebedores de gin de verdad para el boom que tuvimos. Aquel combinado se tuneó”.
Ricardo García, bartender y copropietario Salmón Gurú. Y Viva Madrid. 49 años
“La moda de los gin-tonic abrió la mente de la gente y ha impulsado la coctelería”
-1- “Nosotros somos imparciales en la apreciación porque gestionamos una coctelería en el que el fuerte, el 80%, es coctelería pura, no gin-tonics, pero sí creo que ha dejado de ser protagonista hace tiempo. En general ya la ginebra venia decayendo con ese plus de novedad. Aunque claro, sacaban novedades porque había mercado. Digamos que ahora su consumo es más estable, pero no crece. Ha llegado a su límite”
-2- “No me gusta criticar lo que se hizo, son periodos de experimentaciones, de probar cosas diferentes que no han perdurado en el tiempo pero visto con perspectiva le hizo mucho bien a la coctelería. Aquella moda la ha impulsado, ha abierto la mentalidad de la gente, el gin-tonic fue un buen intermediario con otros combinados. La coctelería vive un buen momento y tiene mucho por desarrollar en España.
-3- “Sí. Nosotros apostamos siempre por una gin-tonic clásico, bastante austero, con buena temperatura de hielo, buenos ingredientes, con un refresco con buen frío, la ginebra a temperatura que nos esté caliente y cítricos. Hay algunas gin que permiten hacer algo más aromático, pero muy puntual. Le damos importancia a los ingredientes. El consumidor de toda la vida es lo que quiere. Hemos notado como novedad las ginebras con baja graduación alcohólica. Creo que van a funcionar en una franja de consumo y en zonas como la costa y en bares sofisticados. Incluso hay alguna 0.0”.
Aurora Rodriguez Casas, (36 años) gerente de Doctor Cóctel (Salamanca). Ex propietaria de Café Bar-coctelería La cava
“Había exceso pero daba igual: estaba de moda y todo el mundo quería beber eso y así”
-1- La verdad es que sí. Y no tiene nada que ver con la pandemia. Estamos un poco cansados de tantas modas. La coctelería en cambio sí está en apogeo y a la gente le gusta probar sabores con una explosión de sabores sabiendo que con un cóctel vas a acabar en cuadrupedia. De todas maneras hay gente que no sale del combinado habitual, sin parafernalias. El vodka tiraba un poco para arriba pero hay que ver cómo sigue tras la pandemia. El consumo de whisky japonés por ejemplo está pitando ahora,
-2- Sí, los años del boom nos pusimos un tanto nerviosos con el tema del gin-tonic y lo preparábamos a mansalva y terminábamos haciendo una ensalada de pepino, una peinada, vaya. He visto fotos de gin-tonic hasta con una banderilla. En fin, nos emocionamos y se nos fue un tanto de las manos. Había exceso pero daba igual: estaba de moda y todo el mundo quería beber eso y así. Salían ginebras de fresa, de naranja, de pomelo… de todo. Somos un país en el que nos gusta estar a la moda, somos un país de fiesta y si el gin-tonic era la bebida por excelencia pues todo el mundo quería beberlo. Incluso sacaron tónicas que no sabían a tónica pero no importaba.
-3- El gin-tonic perfecto es el que lleva ginebra, hielo, tónica y un twist cítrico y el toquecito personal de cada barman. El clásico es el que nunca pasa de moda y el buen bebedor es el que se bebe ese gin y no lo abandona. Y este siempre se seguirá haciendo.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

La ginebra Sir Chill (en clara alusión a Winston Churchill) es la primera que se fabrica infusionada con tabaco. La sirven con una varita de cedro y se destila en Bélgica. Uno de los primeros países en importarla fue Dominicana. Aún no se comercializa en España.

Interesantes y brillantes reflexiones sobre la actualidad de los gin tónics. Dejè las bebidas largas hace ya varios años, aunque muy de vez en cuando, castigo alguno con ginebras clásicas. Aguanto mucho mejor los vinos tintos y alguna cervecita.
Muy interesante artículo, Antonio, te felicito, yo recuerdo Málaga llenita de locales donde sólo te servían gin tónics ( no sé si se escribe exactamente así, I’m sorry ). Yo no bebo ( alcohol ) ni fumo y me dio qué pensar : » ¿ habrá suficiente clientela para mantener un negocio así ? «.
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