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El hombre que edita (y susurra) a los chefs

Javi Antoja, director de Montagud, lidera la única editorial dedicada exclusivamente a la gastronomía, convertida en referencia del sector con una apuesta por la calidad y el futuro

u memoria olfativa es el olor a papel, la herencia recibida es el de una digna y comprometida empresa editora que empezó publicando libros técnicos de pastelería de 7x10 centímetros para que cupiesen en el bolsillo de la bata de los pasteleros; y su ambición es la de proyectar luces sobre una generación de cocineros españoles que está haciendo historia o que están llamados a hacerla. Su afán es la perfección, su pasión editar y la gastronomía; su color, el blanquiazul, estirpe periquita. Se llama Javi Antoja, barcelonés de 43 años, director de Montagud editores, y se hizo editor entre fichas de croasanes, fórmulas de hojaldre y carolinas. Su padre, que era redactor jefe de la editorial, compró la empresa cuando el nieto del fundador -tercera generación- decidió desprenderse de ella. Por entonces, Antoja hijo entraba como becario en la firma.

Montagud, editorial fundada por Federico Montagud en la ciudad condal en 1906 con la revista profesional Molinería y panadería, es la primera y única editorial del mundo en dedicarse exclusivamente a la gastronomía. El catálogo y las miras fueron ampliándose con el tiempo. Lo cual no significa que no conserven y alienten algunas joyas: desde 1933 siguen editando aquel manual fetiche de pastelería -El formulario práctico del pastelero, escrito por Ramón Vilardell y José Jornet– con el concepto clásico de las 450 fórmulas y en el tamaño original de bolsillo: 66 ediciones ya en el mercado, 60.000 ejemplares vendidos, y siguen agotándose. ¿qué es un clásico?, se interroga la humanidad. Eso, un libro de bolsillo que camina lenta pero inexorablemente hacia su centenar de ediciones. La línea de pastelería incluye además una cuidada selección de títulos firmadas por los pasteleros más relevantes –Jordi Roca, Cédric Grolet, considerado el mejor pastelero del mundo, u Oriol Balaguer– además de monográficos sobre el chocolate, los macarons o los helados. En su línea de revistas, publican Pastry revolution, 180 páginas dedicadas a contar qué se cuece en los obradores de pastelería y panadería de todo el mundo y a detallar el trabajo de los mejores del mundo en este ámbito. Es la única revista del mundo que obtuvo el Premio Nacional de Gastronomía a la mejor publicación. “Pastry es el Ferrari de Montagud”, dice, orgulloso, Javi Antoja.

Montagud, que acumula premios y reconocimientos por su trabajo, trasciende especialmente por los libros monográficos que dedica a algunos de los grandes chefs españoles. No está en el ánimo del editor hacer una recopilación de los mejores ni dedicarle un número a cada triestrellado. El criterio es otro. “Nos interesa más lo que viene, lo que creemos que va a merecer la pena”, sostiene Antoja. Hasta ahora no han errado un solo tiro. Los libros de Quique Dacosta o Ángel León de Aponiente se publicaron cuando solo tenían una estrella y el de Dani García cuando estaba en Tragabuches, en Ronda. Y en su galería de la fama son todos los que están aunque no estén todos los que son, porque el editor decide, por lo general, con una complicidad generacional, con una mirada coetánea, sin ánimo de señalar pero con una lectura clara respecto a qué cosas le interesan más que otras. Y con intuición. “Este oficio no se entiende sin cierto toque friki. En lo que hacemos hay algo de apuesta, de acompañar a estos cocineros en su camino, de ser testigos de cosas que van a pasar y lo hacemos con una relación muy natural. Me guío por el feeling, pero el criterio no es excluyente”. De hecho, Antoja no se considera alguien influyente en el mundo en la gastronomía: “Los montaguders sí lo son, yo no. Yo soy un currito que madruga”. Eneko Atxa, Francis Paniego, Paco Morales, Diego Guerrero, Pepe Solla, Joan Roca, Roberto Ruiz , Paco Pérez, Diego Gallegos, Josean Alija o el último y brutal libro dedicado a Luis Lera; así como Fina Puigdevall o Begoña Rodrigo, aunque en el catálogo, como en el planeta gastronómico español, hay muchas menos mujeres que hombres. La lista es más larga y todos los nombres están avalados por su trabajo. “Tratamos de ayudar a crear un universo gastronómico propio en España. Lo más emocionante es cuando los cocineros ven su libro editado y a veces se echan literalmente a llorar de emoción porque ven reflejada su obra; y a nosotros lo que nos interesa es que los libros trasciendan, que perduren en el tiempo”. El equipo de Montagud se convierte durante los meses que dura la elaboración de un libro en una partida más del restaurante y hay grupos de whatsapp creados para coordinar el proceso que perduran años después.
Otra de las joyas de la editorial es la revista Apicius, también premiada con el Premio Nacional de Gastronomía y con el Gourmand World CookBook Awards, considerados los Oscars de la edición gastronómica, como mejor revista del mundo. Apicius, que toma el nombre del gastrónomo romano que nos legó De re coquinaria, es un escaparate de la cocina contemporánea mundial: técnicas, platos y cultura gastronómica. Publican dos números anuales, en mayo y noviembre, y cada uno es recibido con expectación. “Es un notario de la cocina contemporánea”, dijo Ferrán Adriá de la revista.

Es el peliagudo y comprometido oficio de editar en papel en tiempos digitales y revueltos. Una apuesta sin fisuras: papel de máxima calidad procedente de bosques certificados, un diseño vanguardista, contenidos que marcan la agenda, un equipo profesional que sabe lo que hace y el trabajo sobresaliente y luminoso de Mikel Ponce, posiblemente la firma más reconocida en la fotografía gastronómica. Todo bajo la mirada celosa, perfeccionista y exigente de Antoja, empeñado en la excelencia, quien acompaña a cada obra desde su concepción hasta la impresión, sin perder puntada y sin dejar de corregir, mejorar o enmendar hasta el más mínimo detalle. Y la pelea por la rentabilidad. “Peleamos por la rentabilidad pero tenemos una forma de hacer las cosas basada en la calidad extrema. Si imprimiera en China sé que multiplicaría la rentabilidad por cinco. Soy consciente, pero no estanos en eso. Nosotros estamos de paso pero la obra queda”.

El catálogo editorial de Montagud se completa con una rareza bimestral: Vida apícola, la revista de referencia del sector de la miel. La editan desde hace casi 40 años y es la biblia del sector en España y Latinoamérica. Una publicación dirigida tanto a profesionales como a aficionados. Artículos técnicos, información sobre la flora, biología, salud o la gastronomía vinculados a la miel, un sector que representa el 0,44% de la producción final ganadera de España, con una producción anual por valor de 62 millones de euros, además del rol, esencial de la apicultura en la conservación del medio natural.

Montagud tiene algo de colmena. Con la laboriosidad de las abejas, sus capacidades ultrasensoriales y su millón de neuronas en su cerebro han ido construyendo una obra que es espejo para nuevos cocineros, y fecunda, ejemplar, influyente y productiva. Y dulce. Y salada.

Fotos: Editorial Montagud.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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