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El percebe, ese bicho rarito (y exquisito) de los acantilados galegos

El invertebrado marino que conocemos como percebe es una rareza muy cotizada que lleva a los percebeiros a jugarse la vida para mariscarlos. Suculento y cotizado manjar en la mesa, ayudó a Darwin a entender la evolución de las especies

s feo feísimo. Con un cuerpo indefinible, sin armonía ni sentido de la estética. Se le observa así como de frente y no se le ven los ojos porque no tiene, por lo que uno no sabe bien cómo mirarlo ni cómo adivinarle las intenciones: a las centollas, como al toro de lidia, sí se les ve venir. Tampoco tiene corazón. O sea que ni siente ni padece ni se enamora, aunque pese a ser hermafrodita no se autofecunda: necesita pareja. Pero debe ser solo derecho a roce reproductivo. Abundando en sus disfuncionalidades cabe decir que tampoco tiene patas. Lleva evolucionando treinta millones de años pero ha sido una evolución involutiva: aunque lo parece no es un molusco, sino un crustáceo que ha ido evolucionando hasta perder la movilidad. Igualmente, carece de branquia: capta el oxígeno disuelto en el agua a través de unos filamentos. Digamos que es un crustáceo críptico y enigmático. Reservadillo, vaya. Parece un híbrido entre el mundo animal marino y el mineral. ¿De qué consta entonces el bicho? Pues tiene dos partes: el pedúnculo (abajo) y la uña o cabeza (arriba), que se unen a través de un cuerpo salvaguardado con una piel verde oscura o negra que actúa como una cota de malla protegiendo su carne sonrosada, delicada y deliciosa. “Son vikingos vestidos de negro en una asamblea previa a la batalla”, escribió sobre ellos el escritor y gastrónomo gallego Álvaro Cunqueiro. De hecho, se agrupan en formación de triángulo apuntando hacia afuera con la uña para defenderse de los depredadores. Lo más parecido a la formación de tortuga de las legiones romanas. Su nombre científico es pollicipes pollicipes y el mundo lo conoce como percebe. No es posible criarlo en granjas. Su hábitat es la costa escarpada y fría de Galicia. Es salvaje y es leyenda.


Mide entre cuatro y doce centímetros. “El tamaño del pulgar de un carpintero”, estableció Cunqueiro. La larva tarda seis meses en desarrollarse y algunos pueden vivir hasta diez años. Existen 900 especies que se agarran como si no hubiera un mañana a las rocas, las conchas o los corales, aunque también se adhieren a tablas a la deriva, boyas o a cualquier resto flotante. Están los percebes de sombra  -llamados aguaronesy los de sol, más apreciados porque su cuerpo contiene menos agua y es más carnoso. Es, en verdad, un bicho rarísimo. Se adhiere a la roca a través de una sustancia similar al cemento que segrega él mismo y que lo solidifica en el lugar. El resto aparentemente rocoso que lleva en la parte inferior cuando usted lo ve ya fuera del mar reunido así como en ramilletes, no es un trozo de la roca, sino ese cemento biológico que fabrica el percebe. Es digno hijo de las costas gallegas, donde adquiere calidad extra gracias a las aguas frías, profundas y cargadas de nutrientes que genera el viento del Norte con el anticiclón de las Azores.

Lo más parecido a su disco duro está dentro de la uña calcárea, que a veces parece de piedra y otras de nácar. Oculto tras la uña está su sistema reproductivo y la boca. Se le llama uña pero en realidad son varias: hasta cuatro en cada lado, tres en medio y otras tres arriba, más alargadas: un acorazado. Y ahí pasa los días, agarrado a la roca, sin moverse. La piedra a donde llegó cuando su progenitora soltó su larva aprovechando que hacía buena mar y sabiendo que iría hacia tierra, donde germinaría en el roquedo. Se alimenta del fitoplancton de las olas que castigan los acantilados. Ya adulto suele agruparse en colonias: hasta 6.000 percebes pueden arremolinarse en un metro cuadrado. Es que los precios del metro residencial son terribles. Y hasta aquí, con la breve historia natural de este invertebrado marino, la primera parte sobre el cirrípedo. “El percebe lleva una vida muy aburrida: no se mueve, no sale a cazar, solo duerme y come”. Quien lo dice es Manuel Antelo, un percebeiro de 52 años, natural de Muxía, en plena   esa franja abonada con cientos de barcos hundidos y temporales inclementes que azotan desde Malpica de Bergantiños hasta Cabo de FIniesterre, allá donde se acababa el mundo conocido y donde casi se acaba de verdad el día que se tiñó de negro prestige.


Antelo lleva 17 años fajándose con el mar para arrancarle el bicho a la roca. Esta es la segunda parte de la historia del percebe. Aunque más bien es la historia de quienes se juegan literalmente la vida en el marisqueo más difícil que existe. Cada año varios percebeiros pierden la vida faenando. En Cabo Roncudo, donde pace en la roca uno de los mejores percebes del mundo, dos cruces blancas en memoria de los percebeiros muertos entre la roca y la ola, se alinean con el faro. “La gente no llega a entenderlo. No es igual verlo en televisión que estar ahí abajo en la roca en el invierno frío de Galicia con olas de siete metros golpeando a tus espaldas”, explica Manuel Antelo, “este trabajo te revienta: acabamos destrozados de los huesos entre los golpes y la humedad”. En la cofradía de Muxía hay 70 percebeiros. En Galicia hay  unos 1.500. Percebeiros y percebeiras, ojo, que en el sur de la comunidad son sobre todo mujeres la que practican esta actividad. Aparte, los furtivos. Que es otro asunto de género mayor.

Antelo se enroló en el mundo del percebe animado por unos compañeros tras regresar de Suiza, donde trabajó durante quince años como cocinero y metalúrgico. Es un tipo flaco y fibroso que se cuida y al que le va “la subida de adrenalina” de este marisqueo. Desde hace siete años tiene además dos restaurantes en Muxía – A Casa do peixe y Son de mar– que gestiona junto a su mujer, Belén Lema, y su hijo Alfonso, quien se encarga de las brasas. Cuando cierra la cocina, a la una de la madrugada de cada día del año, Manuel se enfunda en un traje de neopreno y se echa al mar. Nada durante una hora. “Me gusta, me relaja y me quita el calor de la cocina”, bromea. Antes de emigrar a Suiza fue pescador de bajura. Salía a la sardina, el jurel, la anchoa y el camarón, pero aquel trabajo dejó de ser interesante: “La pesca estaba ya muy mal pagada y se pasaban muchas horas en el mar. De cada 100.000 pesetas de la época que se vendían nos correspondían 3.000 a cada marinero”. Antelo se lo sabe todo sobre los percebes. Los marisca 160 días al año. Los hay siempre salvo los periodos de veda y dice que la clave es saber cuál es la roca buena, porque en otra aparentemente igual y a solo unos metros más allá, el percebe “no vale nada”. Igual que avisa sobre los que se crían en boyas y similares: “Son tóxicos, incomestibles. Se distinguen perfectamente. Los buenos, de la costa gallega, son anchos y cortos. Los marroquíes, que llegan con profusión al mercado español, son largos, con menos carne y en el pedúnculo llevan adheridos restos de arenisca o de una arcilla que se disuelve. Los canadienses, que también puede encontrarlos en nuestro país, son más largos, de color más claro y con más placas en la uña.

El cupo diario lo tienen fijado entre cinco y los siete kilos como máximo en navidades. En su área de trabajo hay tres zonas clave: la punta de la buitra, la zona occidental de Cabo Touriñán y la punta la barca, donde está el Santuario de la Virgen de la barca, un lugar hermoso y legendario que era el final del final del camino de Santiago. Antelo considera que los de la barca -donde solo mariscan tres veces al año- son los mejores de Galicia. Entre 80 y 300 euros el kilo cuestan según la época del año. Percebes extraídos de los acantilados de la barca con la raspa (o ferrada) de acero afilada a fuego.


La tercera parte de la increíble y jubilosa historia del percebe lleva el nombre de Darwin. El padre de la teoría de la evolución de las especies es el tipo que más se ha obsesionado con los percebes, sin contar a algunos constructores de la Costa del Sol de peluco de oro en mano y bata de seda jesúsgilesca. Aunque se trata de otro tipo de obsesión. Durante sus años de viaje en el Beagle, Darwin la emprendió con los percebes. Llegó a estudiar miles de especies de este cructáceo durante diez años y parió un monográfico taxonómico de cuatro volúmenes sobre percebes, donde, según los expertos, recogía ya el cambio de paradigma sobre la selección natural, la adaptación de las especies y la migración de las mismas. “Odio al percebe como ningún hombre lo ha odiado nunca“, dejó escrito el científico inglés tras diez años de investigación.

Y, al fin, la cuarta parte nos lleva con el percebe a la mesa, marisco fetiche y cotizado y que vale más de lo que cuesta si se tiene en cuenta donde florece y qué riesgos han de asumir los percebeiros hasta tenerlo usted en la carta del restaurante. Ese bicho del que hemos conocido su particular y coriácea constitución. Del que hemos sabido que pone en jaque la vida de las personas que bajan a por él a la roca que habita. Y del que Darwin se quedó prendado, primero; y después, harto. Ese invertebrado feo es, dígase, una delicia gastronómica como pocas. Una ola de mar que estalla en el paladar. Puro mar. Yodo. Y encima viene dopado de vitaminas saludables y cero grasas.

El modo tradicional y universalmente extendido de consumirlo es hervido. En A Casa do peixe, como en la mayoría de establecimientos de Galicia, se cuece solo con agua de mar. Ni laurel ni gaitas. Porque algún día habrá que hablar de la escuela del laurel en la cocción del marisco, que es como la cebolla y la tortilla. Pero esa es toda la receta: agua de mar y brevísima cocción. Se asusta en el agua hirviendo menos de un minuto y ya.  Así llega a la mesa con sus cualidades intactas. “Auga a ferver, percebes botar; auga ferver, percebes sacar”, dicen los gallegos.

Como no podía ser de otra forma, comerlo también exige cierta habilidad. Se presenta en la mesa cubierto con un paño para que conserve la temperatura. Lo suyo es ir sacándolos poco a poco para que no se enfríen. Y ahí viene el golpecito de muñeca maestro para quebrar la piel y conseguir que el marisco haga su streap tease. Y ya lo tiene: carnoso, delicadísimo, lo opuesto a su rusticidad externa. Hay quien se come también el interior de la uña, igualmente sabroso. Gustos. Una ola atlántica en la boca.

Manuel Antelo los prepara al modo tradicional y los lleva a la mesa en una pequeña olla cerrada. También cocina croquetas de percebe y los hace en empanada. Pero su público le pide el percebe hervido. No obstante, el percebe da para mucho. El cocinero gallego Yayo Daporta, con una estrella en Pontevedra, prepara cebiche de percebes y tartar de percebes con emulsión en su jugo. Así, dice, saca lo mejor del marisco manteniendo a la vez potencia y la delicadeza de su textura. Vittor Arguinzoniz los hace a la brasa en sus poderosas parrillas de Extebarri . Iván Domínguez (Na-Do) en costra de sal. Y Marcelo Tejedor, en Casa Marcelo en Santiago de Compostela, deslumbró con su sopa helada de guisantes y percebes. En Estimar hay una propuesta diferente y atractiva: percebes en gabardina (en la foto de portada).

Martín Berasategui incluyó en uno de su menús el taco de lubina reposado en marinera de percebe y en Leña Dani García ofrece percebes a la brasa estilo bourguignon con mantequilla de hierbas y Ramallo de mar. Y la cosa va más allá en restaurantes como Umiko: curry verde de percebes con lengua estofada. Y así podríamos seguir, tal es la versatilidad del producto y la maestría de los cocineros. También se come frito o a la gallega, con pimentón y cachelos.

Sea como sea, este bicho feo y agarrado a la roca, que hasta hace relativamente poco fue considerada comida de pobres e incluso alimento para animales, lo aguanta todo. Ya saben aquello de Lola Flores: no se mueve, feo, extraño y rarito. ¡ Pero no se lo pierdan ¡

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio Guardar y salir

Los buenos son anchos y cortos, "como el pulgar de un carpintero", según Cunqueiro
Manuel Antelo en plena faena
Cruces en Cabo Roncudo en recuerdo de los percebeiros fallecidos
Lámina de Darwin sobre los percebes

5.248 Comentarios

  1. Amablemente sorprendido por esta magnífica lección dedicada a los percebes. Seguro que Cunqueiro, te la bendeceria. Disfruto leyéndote. Un abrazo querido Antonio.

  2. Que gran sorpresa me he llevado con la historia del percebe. Lo comí tanto de los buenos como de los del moro, y se nota la gran diferencia.
    Magnifico relato desde la crianza del “bicho “, hasta puesto en la mesa, manjar exquisito!!!!’
    Que haya suerte y un abrazo.

  3. Una gran lección sobre el percebe, uno de mi fruto del mar mas preferido..
    Leído con tardanza , pero me encanto Antonio.

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