El señor de las merluzas
El cocinero marinense Alfonso Díaz triunfa con su Merluzateca en el mercado de Pontevedra, donde trabaja exclusivamente con este pescado y desafía al recetario tradicional
ara Alfonso Díaz el paraíso es una eterna primavera con lluvia gallega, una ría de aceite de oliva virgen extra de Jaén y un tentador baile de merluzas negras. Cocinero marinense de 57 años, fue sin embargo ingeniero técnico geódesico y topográfico antes que fraile. “No fui cocinero porque hace cuarenta años no le podías decir a tu madre que querías ser cocinero, así de fácil”. Eso sí, para costearse la carrera montó una pensión de estudiantes donde cocinaba para ellos. Y nunca dejó de mirar de reojo a los fogones, hasta que se enredó definitivamente en el mundo de la gastronomía. Era 28 de agosto del 2000, en Linares, a las puertas de los Juegos Olímpicos de Sidney. A este gallego se le ocurrió desafiar la prohibición del gobierno australiano de importar alimentos para la cita deportiva. Tras un largo desafío a la lógica y las instituciones, tras pelearse con tozudez con el Comité Olímpico español, el Consejo Superior de Deportes y la Embajada de Australia, a unos días de comenzar la competición se plantó en el aeropuerto, dejó en tierra su maleta con el equipaje para que le permitieran embarcar el producto pues superaba los kilos permitidos, y se montó en un avión comercial con 10.000 monodosis de aceite de oliva Virgen Aires de Jaén rumbo a Sidney. Allí, vivaz y tenaz, terminó siendo “la mascota” de la selección de baloncesto de Lolo Sainz, quien le dio amparo. Los chicos del baloncesto devoraban el aceite, cuyo consumo fue un éxito. 500.000 pesetas de las entonces se dejó en la operación.
Y así, empeño tras empeño, hasta llegar al primer establecimiento especializado exclusivamente en merluza negra. La Merluzateca se llama y está en el mercado de Pontevedra, en lo que hoy se conoce en todos los mercados como “zona gourmet”. Lo abrió justo antes del covid, en 2019, pero ha resistido al virus e incluso al escepticismo de algunos paisanos que observan cómo la creatividad de Alfonso desafía el recetario tradicional gallego.
Desde hacía tiempo mantenía relaciones con la Asociación de Armadores de Marín, una flota dedicada en exclusiva a la pesca de la merluza negra en los caladeros canarios, donde no hay anisakis, y cuyo producto descargan en fresco en Cádiz. Así que decidió emplearse a fondo con ese pescado. La Merluzateca es, como su nombre indica, un cajón de merluza. La carta solo incluye platos que contienen merluza. “A mí siempre me ha gustado atreverme, hacer cosas nuevas, abrir caminos”, explica el cocinero, “aquí trabajo cualquier cosa menos la plancha o la merluza hervida, solo recetas a las que se le dan la vuelta”.
El menú es irresistible y provocador: Brandada de vaca de merluza negra de Marín con jarrete de vaca; una versión de la empanada gallega –“que es masa y relleno”- en la que el relleno es una merluza salada al estilo del bacalao con pasas y la masa es en realidad una caña de Carballiño, que es un cilindro frito crujiente con azúcar y canela. También decidió hacer un arroz con merluza, pero no podía andar poniendo paelleras al fuego a la espera de los clientes. Resultado: unas filloas -unas tortitas finas con harina, leche huevo y frutas y que al parecer son el origen del crêpe francés- rellenas de un arroz con merluza que se funde dentro con queso de tetilla. Entre sus platos de referencia hay un sandwich “estilo Rodilla” con merluza ahumada, pepinillo y manzana. Y la célebre Pizza de croca con cantarelus. La masa está hecha con harina y merluza y queda muy esponjosa. La fríe en Aires de Jaén y le añade tomate fresco, queso y la croca de Bandeira. La croca es un deliciosa pieza de carne, sabrosa, tierna y marmoleada, que está justo debajo de la picaña. Una delicia que corona la pizza frita de Alfonso Díaz. Con la merluza negra hace guisos marineros, el Lingote de merluza con gelatina de algas y oro, las Anchoas de Marín con queso merluza y aguacate, las croquetas de merluza ahumada, el Bienmesabe de merluza negra o la Merluza con crema de cachelos y cítricos. En realidad, su imaginación es desbordante. Presume sin presumir, que es un arte muy difícil y equilibrado, de tener registradas tres patentes alimentarias (hito complicado, por cierto): el chorizo de pulpo, el queso de pescado y la repostería marina. En la Merluzoteca, los postres también llevan este pescado entre sus ingredientes. Como las galletas de merluza, elaboradas con aceite de oliva, quinoa, azúcar negra y merluza. “La merluza da un juego tremendo porque es más bien neutra de sabor, tiene personalidad, pero te deja jugar”, asegura. Con el virus, como casi todo el sector, ha empezado a trabajar los envíos a domicilio. “Me resistía porque sé que la calidad no puede ser la misma aunque llegue a casa en veinte minutos, pero algunos clientes me animaron tras comprobar que la experiencia no variaba mucho”.
Alfonso Díaz es autor además de libros como Los sabores azules de las rías, un compendio de platos populares de Pontevedra que fue premiado en un salón especializado en París como mejor libro de recetas de pescado de España. También publicó Las 5 W de la fritura saludable, en la que se plantea y explica el qué, el cómo, el dónde, el cuándo y el por qué de los secretos de la fritura. Es, por cierto, el primer libro vinculado al aceite de oliva editado también en chino. Cosas del marinense, que también tuvo su programa en Canal cocina y ha asesorado a empresas sobre desarrollo de nuevos productos pesqueros. Entre ellos su chorizo de pulpo: “Fue un producto que no triunfó porque se adelantó a su tiempo”. “Alfonso es un tipo muy curioso y ocurrente y una perfecta mezcla entre un gourmet y un gourmand”, dice el periodista Manuel Villanueva, paisano y amigo de Alfonso.
No hay causa que se le resista: en pleno Prestige cocinó para mil personas y recaudó 50.000 euros con los que se contrató un equipo de buzos durante cuatro meses para retirar chapapote.
En la Merluzateca se come rico y distinto. “Cobro barato y el servicio es informal”, explica el cocinero, que se ha hecho con un local conjunto que ocupaba una pulpería tradicional y donde ahora ofrece “su” pulpo a feira: un pulpo con un corte finísimo con su pimentón, aceite y sal pero que incorpora una cama de tomate con ajo. “Solo hubo un paisano que me protestó porque me dijo que eso no era pulpo a la gallega, y le dije que no, que era pulpo a feira al estilo del Alfonso Díaz. Pero el resto de los clientes están encantado: vendo miles de platos”.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio Guardar y salir
Seguro que está merluzateca serå un lugar de lujo para probar su arte culinario con el producto merlucero. En Cádiz, era famoso el restaurante «La flor de Galicia», donde preparaban unos medallones de merluza en sus diferentes variedades y estaban maravillosos. Eran posiblemente, los mejores de Cádiz.
Yo no era fan de este pescado hasta q conocí a Alfonso y sus recetas innovadoras. Rico y diferente. La pizza sublime y única. Un placer Iara los sentidos
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