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El tiempo de las superlegumbres

Cuando la ciencia y el mercado se afanan en buscar nuevos superalimentos, las legumbres resurgen cada otoño como un tesoro proteico, agrícola y cultural

a ciencia -y el mercado- se empeñan cada año en el descubrimiento de nuevos superalimentos. Cada año, cien novedades. Según la Organización Mundial de la Salud, los superalimentos son aquellos beneficiosos para la salud y, por lo general, ricos en vitaminas, antioxidantes y grasas saludables. Las grandes marcas dedicadas a la alimentación, ávidas de colocar novedades que respondan a esos parámetros tan en boga hace años, inundan los lineales de los supermercados de semillas de chía, arándanos, bayas de goji o de productos que incorporan jengibre. Y así llegan a nuestras vidas cosas tan exóticas como el aceite de coco, la espirulina o la col kale, la lúcuma, los frijoles de soja o la maca, que es una especie de rábano andino al que se le atribuye un aporte extra de energía e incluso capacidades relacionadas con la fertilidad. Otra cosa sería saber qué productos arraigan, porque la mayoría se intuyen efímeros.

Desempolvando las ollas

Ahora, cuando hay que ir pensando en sacar el chubasquero del altillo y el fresco cae al al amanecer y a la tarde, empieza el regreso a los fogones. En las cocinas españolas se desata un ceremonial perezoso de sustitución de las sopas frías. Al tiempo, como en una coreografía no ensayada pero que se repite desde tiempos inmemoriales, se desempolvan las ollas y se empiezan a elaborar los guisos, potajes y sopas que anticipan el invierno. Necesitamos mantener la temperatura corporal para compensar el frío externo y la forma más fácil de hacerlo es tirar de una fuente externa como es la comida caliente. Es eso que queremos decir cuando exclamamos popularmente que “lo pide el cuerpo”. Y llegados a este punto podemos afirmar que los españoles tenemos nuestros superalimentos: garbanzos, lentejas y alubias, con todas sus variantes. De hecho, la oferta supera el centenar de productos aunque el consumo masivo se reduce a media docena. Las legumbres –la semilla seca de las leguminosas, limpia y separada de la vaina- acompañan al hombre mediterráneo desde que el mundo es mundo. Como Obélix, todos los españoles nos caímos dentro de una marmita de legumbres cuando pequeños.

Artesanales y protegidas

En 2016 se celebró el Año internacional de las Legumbres bajo el lema “semillas nutritivas para un futuro sostenible”. La ONU considera que su cultivo es importante para la seguridad alimentaria de continentes como África, América Latina y Asia, donde además de formar parte de la dieta diaria contribuye al sostenimiento y desarrollo de pequeñas comunidades. En España, también. Históricamente en las zonas rurales se cultivaban para dar de comer a la familia. Hoy, la producción de muchas legumbres es artesanal, limitada y se produce bajo unos parámetros muy estrictos y en muchos casos bajo el reconocimiento y el control de una Indicación Geográfica Protegida (IGP). Desde la aplicación de la Política Agraria Comunitaria han ido desapareciendo muchas variedades que se quedaron sin subvenciones. Con ellas también desaparece parte de la cultura local. Ejemplo: en León por ejemplo se emplean hasta diez palabras para designar a la casi desaparecida almorta, una variedad de leguminosa: muelas, pitos, titos, cantudas, pedretes, pedruelas, pedrellas, guija o chícharos. Una maravilla surgida de la sabiduría más popular. Así, los más viejos de cada lugar echan de menos muchas variantes locales: los boliches de Embún, la judía del Aumento de Caspe, el bolinche de Betorz, los garbanzos de centenero, las guijas de Torralbilla. Pero no hay ida sin vuelta. En muchas comunidades se aplican investigaciones científicas para recuperar legumbres desaparecidas y que podrían tener una adaptación a las condiciones actuales del medio natural muy marcadas por el cambio climático y el estrés hídrico. Es el caso del trigo sarraceno, la algarroba, el garbanzo negro, la judía mungo, la zarandaja o la alholva, también llamada fenogreco.

Frente al hallazgo de moda cada temporada, las legumbres siempre son sólidas: aportan el triple de proteínas del trigo o del arroz, son ricas en nutrientes, aminoácidos y vitaminas del grupo B, reducen el colesterol malo y son abundantes en ácido fólico, calcio, potasio, fósforo y zinc. Y la ciencia buscando superalimentos…

Foto. Kómelo sano

De proteína de los pobres a manjar

En la posguerra española triunfaban los comics de Carpanta, aquel personaje nacido en 1947 y aquejado de hambre bíblica. Tal era su desesperación que algunos lectores enviaban donativos a la redacción de Pulgarcito para ayudar a calmar su hambre. En aquel tiempo las legumbres se consideraban las proteínas de los pobres. Incluso durante mucho tiempo se utilizaron como forraje para alimentar a las bestias o incluso a los faisanes del Palacio de La Granja. En pleno siglo XXI las legumbres no solo son imprescindibles en la cocina de la familia española sino que gozan de prestigio en las mesas con más organzas y muselinas.

Nunca son demasiados los esfuerzos en reivindicar la importancia -y a futuro, aún más- de las legumbres en nuestra dieta. La UE ha aprobado el consumo de las larvas de escarabajo del estiércol, la langosta migratoria, el grillo doméstico y el gusano de la harina. Vale. Pero tiene poco sentido importar esos insectos o cultivarlos cuando tenemos a mano sacos de legumbres que además forman parte de nuestras vidas y son, huelga decirlo, mucho más apetecibles.

En casa o en la calle

Si quiere cocinarlas en casa el recetario es inacabable y se extiende más allá de las lentejas estofadas, el cocido o las alubias con su pringá. Anna García en El gran libro de las legumbres (Lectio ediciones) sugiere recetas sabrosas y que van más allá: las habas con choco, los garbanzos con mejillones o con coco (al estilo africano); el chile de alubias y lentejas, las lentejas con manzana, langosta o salmón; o si lo prefiere unos altramuces en salmuera, el chocolate de algarrobo o el hummus de judías azuki.

Para disfrutar en la calle hay excelentes opciones por toda España. Aquí van algunas: lo que hace Rodrigo de la Calle con legumbres y verduras (El Invernadero, Madrid) , la fabada de Casa Gerardo (Prendes, Asturias), las pochas con verdura de Juan Miguel (La Manduca de Azagra, Madrid), el cocido lebaniego de Casa Cayo (Potes, Asturias), las verdinas con pixín y langostinos de la sidrería Yumay (Avilés, Asturias), el cocido de Lalín de Casa Curras (Lalín, Pontevedra), las verdinas con salmonete de Araboka (Malaga), las pochas con cocochas de Granja Elena (Barcelona) o las lentejas con foie en Trivio (Cuenca). Por donde vaya encontrará paz y felicidad.

No se olviden que Esaú, el hermano laborioso y tenaz, se vendió a Jacob, el gemelo perezoso modelo sanguijuela, por un plato de lentejas. Lentejas son y valen su peso en oro, ya lo decía el antiguo Testamento.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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