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El tomate, la joya reventona que llegó de América

La producción de tomate español baja, pero su consumo y aprecio lo mantiene en el primer lugar de las mesas españolas y como pivote imprescindible para cualquier elaboración

Cuánto le deben el gazpacho y el sofrito a Hernán Cortés ¡ y El ketchup, claro, que para eso es el hijo bastardo y emigrado del tomate frito. Quien ha pasado a la historia como el conquistador total -celebrado y polémico a la vez- es en realidad algo más sutil: el embajador del tomate. Quien, con la conquista de Tenochtitlán, la actual capital de México, extinta ciudad de los mexicas, colocó en las mesas españolas y del resto del orbe- el tomate. Esa fruta oronda y colorada silvestre, hija de la cultura hahuatl llamada “tomati” o “xictomati” (fruto con ombligo) por los aztecas, provenía de Chile, Perú y Ecuador y fue domesticada y cultivada por todo Mesoamérica (desde el sur de México a Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua y Costa Rica). Los primeros ejemplares, no obstante, eran amarillos. Por eso los italianos le llaman pomodoro (pomo de oro). Y a su llegada, fue considerada una planta venenosa y se confinó a formar parte de los bodegones decorativos.

El tomate cantante. No me pises que llevo chanclas

Los historiadores y expertos en consultar legajos de todo origen no se ponen exactamente de acuerdo en la fecha, pero hay cierto consenso en que el primer barco que traía a bordo semillas de tomate arribó a Sevilla en 1.540. Posiblemente en la misma sentina viajaba el maíz. Todas las mercancías de las naves que llegaban al puerto de Sevilla se registraban en la Casa de Contratación para el pago de tasas e impuestos, salvo las plantas, que escapaban al riguroso control fiscal de la corona, por lo que las fuentes documentales son escasas e imprecisas. De España, que mantenía una telaraña colonial tremenda, el tomate saltó al Caribe, después a Europa y posteriormente a Filipinas y Asia. Desde entonces el tomate -el jitomate, en el centro de México- coloniza las mesas de medio mundo en forma de salsa, en ensaladas, guisos, sopas y guisos. Los aztecas ganaron esa batalla después de desaparecidos. La primera receta registrada bajo el nombre “salsa de tomate al estilo español” es de 1692.

14 kilos al año por persona

El tomate es uno de los grandes fetiches de la mesa española: cada español consume unos 14 kilos al año. Su uso diario lo hace indispensable en cualquier nevera. De hecho, es la hortaliza más vendida cada año tras la patata. España es el país productor líder de la UE, con 1,6 millones de toneladas en 2022. Un dato, sin embargo, a la baja: en 2017 llegaron a producirse hasta dos millones de toneladas. Casi todos los países productores, como Holanda, Italia o Polonia han bajado sus producciones. La causa principal es el crecimiento de las importaciones de terceros países, de forma especial, Marruecos, que vende ya en la UE casi un tercio de los tomates que se consumieron durante 2023. Durante el primer trimestre del pasado año el país norteafricano superó por primera vez a España en ventas en el entorno comunitario, un asunto clave que tiene revuelto al sector, que exige una revisión de las relaciones comerciales. No obstante, el primer productor mundial es China, que pone en el mercado el 31% del total mundial, seguido por India y Estados Unidos.

El Tomate, de Matisse

Variedad: color, forma y sabor

Desde que se planta, tarda entre cuatro y cinco meses en madurar. Influye la temperatura (sobre todo en la coloración), la humedad (la ideal es en torno al 60% para evitar enfermedades en el producto, que se resquebraje o que dificulte su fecundación). Es una joya vitamínica, un antioxidante eficaz, disminuye los niveles de colesterol y triglicéridos en sangre y actúa contra el cáncer que provocan los radicales libres.

El tomate es diverso en formas, tamaños, coloraciones y se han cultivado en el mundo hasta 10.000 variedades, de las cuales en España se han llegado a cultivar hasta mil. Para la botánica es una fruta; para la gastronomía, una hortaliza. En nuestro país hay pequeñas producciones artesanales y tiendas especializadas que están recuperando variedades desaparecidas, a la vez que surgen otras híbridas. No todos los tomates son adecuados para cualquier plato, como bien sabe cualquier que haya empuñado alguna vez una espumadera o un cuchillo de corte. Algunas variedades son ideales para ensaladas y otros para hacer salsas, sopas o guisos.

Creación pop sobre le tomate

Aquí va un pequeño glosario de las especialidades más conocidas.

Cherry o cereza

Lo conoce de sobras: ese pequeño tomate que parece casi decorativo, redondo o con forma de pera, pero que pese a las apariencias puede tener un sabor profundo. El original llegó de América pero el actual pasó por los laboratorios de la Universidad de Jerusalén en los años 70 por encargo de la cadena Mark & Spencer, que quería relanzar esa variedad -hasta entonces condenada casi a funciones estéticas- pero más dulce y menos agreste. Dicho y hecho. Pizzas, ensaladas y pasta.

Kumato

Es el resultado hibrido al mezclar algunas variedades pero no es un transgénico, como a veces se afirma por error. Es ácido y dulce a la vez; y de carne dura aun en estado de plenitud y maduración. Su color es más oscuro que el habitual, menos brillante y puede tener reflejos dorados y verdosos que no son indicativos de falta de maduración. A veces su piel es también marrón oscura e incluso negra. Aporta una cierta textura crujiente. Su origen no está especialmente definido. El más cultivado en España proviene de Adra (Almería), donde, sometido a un estrés hídrico importante, desarrolló sus características peculiares. Ensaladas o en sopas frías.

Tomate Pera

La forma alargada determina su nombre. Es un tomate muy dulce, mucha carne y poca agua, lo que lo convierte en una de las variedades preferidas para elaborar conservas, para ser deshidratado y para preparar salsas. Tiene la piel fina, la pulpa muy carnosa, pocas semillas y suele ser muy sabroso. Sopas frías, para untar en el pan, tomate frito, conservas.

RAF

Lo más importante cuando vaya a comprar tomates Raf es distinguir los auténticos de los falsos. Es de los tomates más imitados dado su éxito. El precio suele ayudar a entender ante qué tipo de ejemplar está usted. Dicen los expertos que más de la mitad de los tomates que se venden por RAF son impostores. No es fácil distinguirlos, pero fijándose en tres o cuatro elementos puede salir airoso: fíese más del gusto que de la vista; el original está surcado en la superficie, pero en la parte inferior nunca está rayado. El cuello superior es verde y la parte de la estrella no debe estar atigrada. Es brillante y su textura es cosa fina. Sus siglas responden a Resistente A Fusarium, el hongo que acabó con muchas cosechas y variedades de tomates. El RAF resistió y se adaptó bien al cultivo en invernaderos de Almería. La salinidad de aguas próximas al mar y las tierras áridas del entorno de Cabo de Gata han hecho el resto: un tomate con un fuerte contraste entre el ácido y el dulce, carnoso, morfológicamente irregular, negro en las zonas exteriores y rosáceo en el interior. Un manjar con aceite y sal

Andine Cornue o tomate pimiento

La forma es parecida a la de esa hortaliza. Es muy sabroso y mide hasta 18 cm. Es de origen andino y fue un explorador francés que lo llevo por primera vez a Europa. El apellido “cornue” parece evocar la forma de cuerno de vaca de este tomate. La planta es muy productiva. Carnoso, baja acidez y aroma potente a tomate. Uno de los preferidos de los coleccionistas botánicos. Rinde muy bien en las pizzas.

Tomate canario

Es una variedad acreditada de las Canarias desde finales del siglo XIX y la información disponible indica que lo llevaron los británicos instalados en las islas Es redondo y rojo, con pocas semillas, una pulpa carnosa, con mucha masa y la piel dura. Se utiliza en salsas y sopas de tomates.

Rosa de Barbastro

Es original del Somontano, en el Alto Aragón, donde está el pueblo del mismo nombre. Es otro tomate fetiche: muy valorado por los consumidores por su sabor dulce, la pulpa carnosa y la piel fina. De aspecto no suele ser bonito -surcos, cicatrices, irregularidades- pero es un engaño: por dentro es perfecto. En ensalada, éxito seguro.

Corazón de buey

Enamórese de un tomate. Su forma recuerda a un corazón lo que, de entrada, le convierte en un objeto estético y atractivo. La pulpa es de una jugosidad extraordinaria, muy carnoso. Presenta un equilibrio perfecto entre su acidez y el dulzor de cada pieza. Suelen ser de gran tamaño -hasta 500 gramos- y vienen desprovistos de semillas: tomates limpios, de un rojo profundo, perfectos para devorar en crudo con aceite, aunque es versátil y sirve para lo que quiera hacer con él en la cocina. Un fórmula-1 de los tomates. Corazón de buey, corazón de toro o Cuore di bue en italiano. Perfecto para una ensalada caprese, para un tartar con otra fruta y por supuesto en crudo con aceite de oliva virgen, para que le explote en el paladar el sabor de cada pieza.

Ramallet o tomate de colgar

Son de origen Mediterráneo (Baleares, Cataluña y Valencia) y vienen enlazados en ramilletes. Se cuelgan en lugares secos y frescos durante varios meses. Tienen mucha pulpa, masa abundante y poca agua. Para untar en el pan con aceite son estupendos y muy utilizados en la zona. También para fondo de arroces.

Tomate azul

De origen norteamericano y salido de los laboratorios de la Universidad de Oregón, es una variedad de tomate reciente. Es de colorr azul índigo o morado por fuera y la coloración cambia de intensidad en función de la cantidad de luz solar que recibe. Por dentro es de un rojo convencional. El sabor es muy frutal, jugoso y con aromas a algunas frutas de hueso. Se utiliza para mermeladas y guisos.

Bodegón con frutero y dulces, de JUAN VAN DER HAMEN

El tomate en las artes

El tomate, omnipresente en nuestras vidas y, como todo lo cotidiano, escalando hacia manifestaciones culturales. Los bodegones de la pintura clásica recogieron con curiosidad y rigor la novedad culinaria llegada de América, aportando briznas rojas profundas y brillantes a esas mesas sometidas al clarooscuro. Andy Warhol inmortalizó el bote de la sopa de tomate de Campbell´s, que pasó a la inmortalidad. Un bartender francés llamado Fernand Petiot inventó el bloody mary – vodka , zumo de tomate, salsas y aderezos- en 1920 y lo bautizó en memoria de la reina María I de Inglaterra, aficionada compulsiva a las persecuciones religiosas en Inglaterra, una pequeña manía sangrienta: de ahí el nombre asociado al rojo tomate. Incluso dos activistas pelín averiados del cerebelo arrojaron recientemente salsa de tomate a Los girasoles de Van Gogh. Pablo Neruda le dedicó un poema desgarrador y tierno a la vez: “Debemos, por

desgracia, asesinarlo:/ se hunde el cuchillo en su pulpa viviente/ es una roja víscera, un sol fresco/ profundo, inagotable/ (..) se casa alegremente con la clara cebolla/ y para celebrarlo/ se deja caer aceite /hijo esencial del olivo / sobre sus hemisferios entreabiertos”. Es para el poeta chileno el “astro de tierra” la “estrella repetida y fecunda”. Es el tomate, hijo de la primera globalización (el descubrimiento de América) y padre de mil salsas y sofritos.

*La foto de portada pertenece a La Vanguardia.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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