El verano tiene alma de sardina
Estos meses, cuando más sabrosas están por la grasa acumulada, las sardinas nos traen la memoria de los veranos y la felicidad
ucho antes de que algún listo inventara los dibujos con drones en el cielo, con cientos de aparatos voladores moviéndose sincronizadamente, los estorninos ya volaban como un ballet imperial ruso y las sardinas habían patentado los cardúmenes, que es la exhibición acuática más sublime que existe y para la que siempre cuelgan el cartel de no hay billetes. Su coreografía es un movimiento a compás, que diría un flamenco. La agregación en bandadas, de probada eficiencia hidrodinámica, y los movimientos sincopados, incluso violentos en sus quiebros, les permite reducir el esfuerzo al nadar ya que aprovechan las ondas de la sardina que les precede y les permite escapar de los predadores. Al desplazarse en masa encuentran alimento con más facilidad, socializan y, paradójicamente, se camuflan ante los peces grandes que, como los humanos, los tienen como dilecta dieta, ya que los cardúmenes se forman entre peces del mismo tamaño, de la misma especie, sanos e incluso con “afinidad y parentesco”, según explican los expertos. El movimiento natatorio es evolutivo, aprendido, no innato.
Las sardinas son muy listas y sobre todo muy generosas con los depredadores humanos cuando llegan los meses sin erre, momento perfecto para su consumo, justo al revés que el marisco. Dicen los pescadores que el 23 de junio, la noche de san Juan, es la fecha perfecta para devorarlas además de para quemarse los bajos del pantalón saltando hogueras en la playa.
Plancton, grasa y hoguera
La sardinas se alimentan de plancton, que con las temperaturas elevadas es abundante. La sardina se alimenta sin parar y coge toda la grasa que puede para acumular para el invierno y compensar la que pierde con el desove. Convenientemente pasada por la brasa esa grasa le da un sabor profundo y especial a la sardina. Es en verano cuando han acumulado más grasa. Alcanzan unos 17 centímetros de tamaño y tienen entre dos y tres años cuando caen en la red de cerco. Pueden bajar a comer hasta a 150 metros de profundidad, aunque durante la noche están hasta 30 centímetros de la superficie. Y al copo.
Pesca de la sardina. Foto sea food media
El espeto, patrimonio de la humanidad
En Málaga han construido un monumento llamado espeto, que es fruto de la experiencia, el conocimiento y la inteligencia. También en otros pueblos del litoral andaluz -como Barbate, que celebra su sardinada popular desde tiempos inmemoriales- o del Mediterráneo rinden culto a la sardina. Pero Málaga ostenta el trono.
El espeto es una técnica aparentemente sencilla consistente en ensartar el pescado en cañas que se clavan en la arena frente a las brasas. Pero en realidad requiere maestría y control de los tiempos y el fuego para tratar a la sardina con la delicadeza que requiere su carne fina y rindiendo respeto a esta apoteósica y sabrosísima cupleiforme plateada, esquiva y vivaz. Recomiendan los peritos en espetos asarlas a fuego fuerte con la sal formando una delgada costra sobre las escamas y muy poco tiempo de exposición al calor. Un visto y no visto para que queden jugosas y el lomo se desprenda dúctil. Las sardinas en espeto no se limpian y reclaman toda la atención del ejecutor en el momento de ensayar el arte del ensartado. Se enhebran en la caña solo de seis en seis, introduciendo el palo por el lomo y sacándolo por la tripa sin romper la espina. Cirugía mayor playera. Si se ejecuta con maestría, un espeto de sardinas es plato moralmente superior que no cuesta lo que vale. Y déjese de cubiertos. Para algo tenemos dos manos y diez dedos. ¡ Y al ataque ¡ Se recomienda comerlas como si no hubiera un mañana. Eso de que pueden empachar son leyendas urbanas promovidas por gente pusilánime.
Foto Mediterráneo real
Josep Pla, el sabio de Palafrugell, se emocionaba con una sardina a la brasa, un vino rosado, la sopa de tomillo, las ostras que no devoro en su juventud, una siesta en una frágil barquilla u observando los surcos en la cara de un payés. En “un viaje frustrado”, recorriendo la costa de Girona hasta Francia en una pequeña barca con pescadores, plasma al natural, con la sencillez profunda del observador disfrutón, una escena mítica: “Mi compañero de viaje coge la cabeza del pescado con los dedos de una mano y la cola con los dedos de la otra, y come las sardinas como si tocara la ocarina. Las devora por aspiración, sorbiendo. La espina sale de la operación dibujada y limpia. Los espectáculos de avidez se hermanan muy bien con esta mar antigua. (..) Yo me las como –modestia aparte– de una manera más académica: sobre el pan, pero con los dedos”.
La sardina ya está aquí, para llenar los mediodías de verano y las noches de agosto con el sabor graso y perfumado de su lomo de terciopelo bajo su piel tiernamente abrasada. Es el tiempo de la paz con uno mismo, el litúrgico momento de abrir con los dedos calmos, sin urgencias ni agendas, el interior caliente de una sardina y mancharse los dedos y untarse el rostro con el aroma a mar y brasa. Es el verano, que siempre vuelve reencarnado en una humilde sardina. Es la metáfora del tiempo de la sencillez, el mar inmenso y la felicidad reencarnado en el pez que desafía al ballet del Bolshoi con su gracioso y sinfónico peregrinar por los azules marinos.
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