Entrevista Olivier Poussier
“Los sumilleres no estamos aquí para dar lecciones ni para tomar por tontos a los clientes”
En 1990 fue elegido mejor sumiller de Francia. Diez años más tarde, mejor sumiller del mundo. Formado en la École hôtelerie de Tecomah, en Yvelines, procura pasar entre viñedos europeos o del nuevo mundo cada día de su vida. Con experiencia en restaurantes como La Tour D´argent o Le Pré Catelan, es uno de los grandes y prestigiosos consultores del mundo del vino. Trabaja en los cinco continentes y es uno de los destacados apóstoles de los controvertidos maridajes. Enemigo declarado de la moda de los tintos espesos y pesados, pasó por España para presentar la añada de Burdeos 2022. Enamorado de los jereces, es capaz de recitar de memoria el nombre de los pagos de Jerez, Sanlúcar y El Puerto de Santa María.
os sumilleres no estamos aquí para dar lecciones ni para tomar por tontos a los clientes”
En 1990 fue elegido mejor sumiller de Francia. Diez años más tarde, mejor sumiller del mundo. Formado en la École hôtelerire de Tecomah en Yvelines, procura pasar entre viñedos europeos o del nuevo mundo cada día de su vida. Con experiencia en restaurantes como La Tour D´argent o Le Pré Catelan, es uno de los grandes y prestigiosos consultores del mundo del vino. Trabaja en los cinco continentes y es uno de los destacados apóstoles de los controvertidos maridajes. Enemigo declarado de la moda de los tintos espesos y pesados, pasó por España para presentar la añada de Burdeos 2022. Enamorado de los jereces, es capaz de recitar de memoria el nombre de los pagos de Jerez, Sanlúcar y El Puerto de Santa María.
¿Qué se va a encontrar un consumidor habitual de vinos de Burdeos en la añada 2021?
- Primero, 2021 es un añada clásica. Volvemos a perfiles de vinos que se hacían hace 20 años. Burdeos ha sido tocada por el calentamiento global como todos los viñedos del mundo y esta añada es lo contrario a lo que podría pensarse porque es una añada fresca, con una graduación alcohólica muy moderada y el consumidor habitual de burdeos, de un perfil entre 40 y 50 años, se va a reencontrar con Burdeos. Tengo más miedo es sobre todo con el consumidor joven porque ha estado habituado a un tipo de vino más denso, más duro, con más cuerpo. Cuando eres tan corpulento eres más accesible a paladares no habituados. Porque este perfil de 2021, poco espeso, muy rectilíneo, necesita tener más sensibilidad para catarla. No son vinos que te hablan enseguida. Las jóvenes generaciones que no están acostumbrados a estos perfiles como el 2021 puede que se pierdan un poco.
¿Paradójicamente, esta añada puede ser muy interesante por su excepcionalidad a contraclima?
- Desde luego. Permite poner a poner de nuevo a la iglesia en el centro del pueblo para mostrar que es un perfil de añada bordalesa y que lo importante es que muestra que Burdeos puede volver a hacer perfiles de vinos más frescos que aquellos que fueron impuestos por los americanos. No hay que olvidar que Burdeos está en el sur de Francia, aunque es un falso viñedo del sur porque tiene influencia atlántica y eso modera el clima y la capacidad de los grandes burdeos de poder expresarse es ese equilibrio entre la madurez que le da el sur y el frescor del clima atlántico.
¿Cómo hemos llegado a confundir vinos densos y potentes con buenos vinos?
- Estoy muy de acuerdo con esa observación. Nunca me han gustado esos perfiles de vinos que tienen un nombre pero que no lo voy a decir. Desde hace treinta años Burdeos ha vivido un ciclo de altos y bajos con influencia de enólogos y consultores que hacían vinos con exceso de madera y mucha extracción, vinos muy corpulentos, que han seducido a una gran parte de los consumidores y es en ese momento cuando hemos empezado a perder el alma bordelesa. No hay que confundir sobremaduración y concentración con finura y elegancia. Burdeos siempre ha sido elegancia. Soy un enamorado de Burdeos pero cuando se busca ese equilibrio. Muchos viticultores y productores se subieron a ese tren, pero cuando ves lo que da Burdeos en 2021 ves que se ha diluido esa influencia. Muy pocos en Burdeos siguen haciendo ese tipo de perfiles. Ha cambiado mucho, ha vuelto a sus orígenes. La moda de los vinos corpulentos se acabó.
- ¿Si el vino se entiende solo como un negocio o una moda se está poniendo en riesgo su proceso canónico de elaboración? ¿vinos a medida para el mercado?
- El calentamiento climático global ha puesto fin a toda esa manera de hacer vinos. Todos se tienen que adaptar a la climatología. Porque un vino sobremadurado y de una extracción muy profunda de hace 20 años ya casi no existe. Habíamos ido demasiado lejos y la gente ahora mismo busca vinos frescos, elegantes y jugosos pero que no sean pesados. En la añada 2018 tuvimos conciencia de eso cuando empezamos a tener hasta 15 grados de alcohol, fruta muy compotada, mucha madera, ¿quién se bebe eso? Hay algunos grandes de 2018 pero son los que realmente cosecharon temprano y controlaron la crianza en madera.
El lenguaje barroco, la complejidad con que se explica el vino termina alejando a los consumidores, ¿no hay fórmulas que en vez de alejarlos los acerque?
- Es clave la capacidad de cada sumiller de adaptar su mensaje a la capacidad del cliente. Se puede liberar la técnica de manera más lúdica y adaptarse. Los sumilleres en efecto deberían trabajar en eso. La profesión de sumiller tiene algo de psicólogo. No estamos aquí para dar lecciones ni para tomar por tontos a los clientes, lo que queremos es aconsejar, para eso tenemos conocimiento. Pero con el tacto y el nivel adecuado a cada cliente. Es parte de la profesión.
¿Qué pesa más cuando cata un vino? ¿La técnica, la pasión, la experiencia, la intuición?
- Una mezcla de todo. Hay que catar también con las tripas, decir lo que sientes. La pasión te da esa profundidad. La técnica puede ser un poco aburrida. Si hay un vino de calidad la técnica es fácil porque estará bien hecho. El vino es un mundo de emociones, hay que dejarlas que hablen.
¿Cuánto influye un sumiller, son los nuevos dioses del vino?
- No, no. Formamos parte del paisaje del mundo del vino, organizamos bodegas, las salas, gestionamos la bodega de un restaurante y cada uno tiene sus gustos y sus ideas sobre el vino. La profesión es un trabajo pasional. Y hay que estudiar para saber si estas a la altura. Buscar información, cultivar los conocimientos porque es un mundo que evoluciona muy rápido
¿El vino define Europa?
- Sin duda. Europa tiene una ventaja sobre los vinos del nuevo mundo: la diversidad varietal, que está al servicio de los gustos. Y hace del continente europeo un continente mayor en materia de vinos.
¿Qué momento vive el vino español?
- Soy muy fan del vino español. Importo de muchas bodegas españolas a Francia y sigo la evolución del viñedo español, que también ha pasado por las mismas fases de Francia, aquellos vinos de garaje, muy pesados. Aquí también ha cambiado. Las nuevas generaciones de viticultores y enólogos españoles son excepcionales. Hacen vinos finos, elegantes y encima con la diversidad varietal que existe en España. Soy un enamorado y sobre todo por esa diversidad. Por ejemplo, me encantan los jereces. Desde siempre. Pero también los vinos del Condado de Huelva o Montilla. Esa expresión del palomino fino, de la Pedro Ximénez. Soy muy fan. Y la evolución de la DO de Jerez, las cosas que se están haciendo, como trabajar con otras variedades autóctonas que no son palomino. La trilogía Jerez-Sanlúcar-El Puerto es mágica. Es muy interesante la apertura a hacer vinos sin fortificar y con más terroir en los pagos de Carrascal, Miraflores o Macharnudo.
Telmo Rodríguez colocó el Yjar 2017 en la Grand Place de Burdeos. En unos minutos vendió las 7.200 botellas (110 euros) a compradores de todo el mundo. Fue el primer vino español en ese escaparate. ¿Mejorará la presencia de vinos españoles en ese escaparate?
- Ya están también los grandes vinos italianos y los latinoamericanos. Es una apertura que va a más. El problema es que el precio de los vinos españoles va a aumentar mucho. Las etiquetas icónicas que pasan por la Grand place suben mucho y ahí habrá un problema con la relación precio-calidad.
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