Guiso de rabo de toro, vuelta al ruedo en la cocina
El estofado tradicional del apéndice de toro es una de las cumbres del recetario español, un recorrido por las lentitudes y las texturas, aunque la mayoría de los rabos sean de ternera
l primer cocinero que estofó un rabo de toro y comprobó que se separaba perfectamente la carne del hueso debió sentir la misma emoción que cuando Moisés separó las aguas del Mar Rojo. El arte de cocinar y de comer te brinda momentos de turbación. Una tortilla a la francesa es eso, un quitahambres, por mucho cuento que le echen los del país vecino. Pero guisar un rabo de toro es de las mejores cosas que te pueden pasar en la vida si excluimos que te toque la primitiva.
Un rabo de toro guisado es un canto a la cordura. Solo se pueden hacer dos cosas con la musculatura vertebral de un toro con encaste: pasearlo en loor de multitudes por el coso mientras los admiradores te arrojan cajas de Yemas el ecijano o estofarlo como mandan los cánones. Optemos por lo segundo. Guisar un rabo con amor y paciencia, sin saltarse medio paso ni escamotear calidades ni mirar el reloj, es un homenaje a la gastronomía profunda y sabia, un viaje a las esencias de los fogones españoles. Un recorrido por las texturas de la lentitud. Una tarde de triunfo haciéndolo todo bien, sin apremiar cada tercio y a cámara lenta. El rabo de toro exige mucha mano izquierda y cierto desmayo.
Quizás sea el padre de todos los guisos. Exige conocer la pieza, su carne poderosa y de recio sabor. Entender cómo destila el colágeno y como se produce el milagro de la melosidad. Ocurre con las cocochas de merluza cuando, generosas, prestan su colágeno para fundirlo e integrarlo con el aceite alumbrando esa delicia emulsionada llamada pil-pil, cuya ejecución pide maestros con la muñeca hábil y la paciencia intacta. El rabo desnuda cocineros. Que no quede duro ni excesivamente blando, que la carne se separe del hueso con naturalidad y gracia, que no se agarre a la olla ni se queme; que la salsa tenga el cuerpo que tiene que tener y el sabor honre al género. Absténganse los quemacebollas con prisas. No lo disfrutarán. Guisar un rabo de toro es la Ítaca de Cavafis: no hay recompensas sencillas y es más importante el camino que el destino.
El rabo de toro -mal llamado cola en según qué lares- es una preciada pieza gastronómica que en otro tiempo fue despreciada dentro del supuesto subgénero de la casquería. Hoy cuesta encontrarlo y no lo regalan precisamente. Pero no se alarmen: igual ha pasado con muchos productos de primera, como el rape, pixín en Asturias o sapo en Andalucía, un pescado que fue de descarte y que incluso llegaba a arrojarse por la borda porque los pescadores se maliciaban que traía con él una racha de mala suerte.
El rabo es colágeno y fibra, pero sobre todo colágeno, que es la proteína más abundante en el organismo de los mamíferos y que ahora ha elevado a los altares la farmacopea de vanguardia porque detiene el desgaste de los tejidos y las articulaciones y ayuda al crecimiento de células cartilaginosas. Tiene todas las vitaminas del grupo B y abundante fósforo, hierro y calcio. Vamos, que es buenísimo para la salud. Los romanos, que no estaban tan locos como creía Obélix, ya consumían este manjar en la Bética, la provincia romana más al sur. Las primeras anotaciones están en De re coquinaria, la obra de referencia de Marcus Gavius Apicius, del siglo IV, posiblemente el primer gastrónomo de nuestra civilización. El epicentro geográfico del rabo está en Córdoba desde el siglo XVI; y sus coordenadas antropológicas van unidas a la celebración de las corridas de toros.
De hecho, su consumo -y su receta canónica- se popularizan a partir del mediados del XIX con el auge de las corridas de toros, en tiempos de Mazzantini y Lagartijo. Al término de la corrida, en la puerta trasera del desaparecido coso cordobés de los Tejares, los diestros solían regalar al respetable la casquería, las vísceras y las piezas de menos valor. El rabo era la parte más codiciada. Y aunque su origen es cordobés su receta vuela por todos lados y se cocina prácticamente en toda España.
Es, por lo tanto, lo que alguien llamaría un plato identitario, si es que eso existe. Pero ciertamente su origen va ligado a una identidad propia, hábitos y costumbres inveteradas. Inveterada (antigua, ligada a unos hábitos arraigados) es un adjetivo que se coloca siempre detrás de la palabra costumbre como pertinaz detrás de sequía y funciona. El rabo tiene raíces humildes, pegadas a la tierra, la necesidad y a la disponibilidad proteica a bajo precio porque el solomillo siempre ha tenido dueño. Pero es a la vez un plato de vanguardia. No por la evolución de su receta ni porque le hayan colocado tirabuzones, porque en realidad su éxito sigue aparejado al estofado clásico. Es precisamente porque rindiendo tributo al torero que decía que lo clásico es “lo que no se puede hacer mejor”, el rabo sigue haciéndose mayoritariamente bajo los patrones clásicos, que cuando giran más de la cuenta sobre sí mismo viran a lo posmoderno y de lo posmoderno a la vanguardia. Es como afirmar que unos huevos fritos son vanguardia. Y que una tortilla deconstruida es una cosa ya muy antigua. Pues también.
La receta base tiene ingredientes muy asentados: cebolla, ajo, zanahoria, tomate, aceite de oliva, vino tinto (bueno, no de garrafón), pimienta y sal. Hay quien le añade pimiento verde italiano, azafrán o clavo, incluso cacao o miel. Si se elabora el día antes de consumirlo, mejor. Queda más reposado y untuoso, con los sabores más profundos y asentados. Pero la clave, una vez hecho el sofrito y tratada la pieza con sumo cariño, es la cocción a fuego lento. Sin prisa. A su amor, hasta que la carne se despegue del rabo.
La pregunta del millón es si hay tanto rabo de toro de lidia para tanta oferta. Pues no, obvio. De hecho, al estofado tradicional se han sumado elaboraciones de todo tipo que van desde las croquetas y albóndigas de rabo, el arroz con rabo de toro, las gyozas de rabo de toro o los moderniquis crujientes y cilíndricos de rabo de toro. De toro de lidia hay muy muy poco, solo en temporada y a precios importantes. La mayor parte de los guisos y recetas se hacen con rabo de vaca. Ni siquiera de buey, como proclaman algunos. Las diferencias son sutiles. El rabo de toro, que es un animal más musculado al vivir al aire libre y andar todo el día arriba y abajo, es de una carne más fina y con un sabor ligeramente más recio. El de vaca es más suave. Aunque distinguirlos queda solo para los muy especialistas. En realidad, los restaurantes y las carnicerías no deberían tener complejos en anunciar su rabo de ternera. No engañan a nadie y está igual de rico. Paciencia y amor en la cocina, tarde de triunfo.
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