La diplomacia de la alcachofa
Breve historia de Juan Miguel y Anabel, patrones de La Manduca de Azagra y maestros de la hospitalidad
uan Miguel Sola, un navarro bien encarado de 61 años, es un magnífico embajador de lo que se ha dado en llamar la gastrodiplomacy, que no es más que una derivada de la práctica diplomática apoyada en las bondades que proporciona una buena mesa: la cercanía, el diálogo, la intimidad y la bajada de guardia que provoca una satisfactoria experiencia gastronómica. El estómago, los sentidos y el disfrute como catalizadores de acuerdos. A eso se dedica Juanmi -abreviatura para los amigos-, a regar bien el terreno de juego de la economía, la política, la cultura, el periodismo y de la sociedad madrileña en general. Este tabernero fino, siempre vestido de negro y que tiene cara de actor extra de los que hacen de buenos en todas las películas, ha conseguido una extraña unanimidad en los 17 años que lleva abriendo cada día su Manduca de Azagra (Sagasta, 14) en la capital. Cada día, salvo los domingos. Hasta que un virus nos cambió la vida.
Raquel, Anabel , Juan Miguel e Idoia
Pero la historia de La Manduca de Azagra es, sobre todo, una historia familiar. La historia de Juan Miguel Sola y Anabel Arriezu, corresponsable de los éxitos, plenipotenciaria para el cierre de la sala y cum laude en la misma escuela diplomática. Esta es la historia de la prima Raquel Sánchez, a los mandos de la cocina con más fósforo, magnesio, zinc, calcio y potasio de Madrid. De la misma saga, Idoia Sola Arriezu, una de las tres hijas, titulada en Derecho y Económicas, y quien ya hace unos años está enrolada en la cocina. Raquel e Idoia, peritas en cocciones. En la retaguardia las otras dos: Itziar y Leire. El hilo continúa con el padre, Miguel; y el tío Lázaro, quienes disponían de una antigua bodega en Azagra, una localidad navarra de 3.800 habitantes en la ribera del Alto Ebro, convertida entonces en almacén de tractores y segadoras, donde empezaría la aventura. La Manduca es también la madre de Juanmi, doña Pili, que pelaba y asaba los pimientos de cristal hasta hace solo unos años. Aún hoy ronda de vez en cuando la parrilla con el ojo experto afilado. En esto andan también la Tía Mari, que envía las verduras de su huerto, especialmente las alcachofas; y los primos Lázaro y Manolo, quienes trabajan los cardos; y los agricultores del pueblo, que sacan de la tierra lo que ofrece cada estación; y la hermana Pili y el cuñado Gregorio, que le envían la carne desde el carnicería del pueblo. A lo que se ve, Juan Miguel y Anabel deben mover una parte sustancial del PIB de Azagra.
Y empezaron haciéndolo directamente allí, cuando en 1997 transformaron aquella antigua bodega familiar en la primera Manduca, sin alusiones topográficas. Aquello fue un esmerado restaurante en un pueblo pequeño al que no llegaban más que carreteras secundarias. El diseño del primer restaurante fue obra del reputado arquitecto navarro Patxi Mangado, quien también se encargaría después de la Manduca madrileña. El local del pueblo debió parecer una nave espacial aterrizada sobre tierra de agricultores, un atrevimiento y una declaración de principios en un enclave de tierras fértiles, antiguo señorío de los Peralta y tierra tradicionalista: el pueblo de los “tarras”, como se les conoce popularmente. Aquello era “con mucho, lo más moderno de la zona”. La sala de Madrid, que sigue la línea de la original de Azagra, es justo lo contrario de lo que usted esperaría encontrar en un restaurante navarro de verduras y carnes. Y de magnifico pescado, ojo. Un diseño minimalista, elegante, desnudo, con una iluminación indirecta que favorece la intimidad y sillas confortables para prolongar la velada. Un lugar apacible y que invita a repetir.
El restaurante de Azagra duró seis años. “Conseguimos mucho más de lo que esperábamos. La Manduca se convirtió en una referencia, venía gente de todas partes a comer, y tiene mérito porque hay que ir allí expresamente. Pero las noches eran muy duras: nos las tirábamos viendo pasar las moscas”, recuerda Juan Miguel. Así que Juanmi y Anabel, una pareja que derrocha autenticidad y hospitalidad, cogieron el hatillo, gestionaron un crédito y “a pecho descubierto” se plantaron en Madrid. Habían pensado montar la nueva Manduca en San Sebastián, en Pamplona, en Barcelona incluso, pero “un amigo nos dijo: tenéis que iros a Madrid, que allí la gente va enseguida a los restaurantes nuevos. Y joder, tenía razón”, afirma el navarro, quien, pese a este tiempo inclemente e incierto para la restauración sigue siendo optimista. “Lo que más echamos de menos es el contacto con nuestros clientes, que son amigos, el roce diario, eso es lo peor”, asegura mientras cuenta los días que faltan para la reapertura.
Hoy pueden presumir de un tropel de clientes-amigos devotos de su carta protagonizada por la verdura de temporada, que llega martes, jueves y viernes desde Azagra. Ese es el auténtico lujo del local. Si hay que destacar dos platos, serían los pimientos de cristal, que se asan en el pueblo en brasas de sarmiento y que suponen un desafío porque tienen poca carne. Un dato: asan unos 7.000 kilos al año, de los que una vez pelados y preparados resultan 1.300 kilos. Los sirven con o sin huevo frito encima, al gusto. Los pimientos son de una finura extraordinaria y con sabor profundo. Para llevarse un táper. La segunda especialidad imprescindible es la menestra de alcachofas, habas, borrajas y espárragos. “Al principio nos costó que muchos clientes entendieran que esos platos no eran una guarnición, sino que tenían protagonismo propio”, dice Juan Miguel. Objetivo conseguido.
A Juan Miguel, que le gustaba la arquitectura y la gastronomía, “pero no era ni arquitecto ni cocinero y sigo sin serlo”, le ha salido bien su aventura madrileña. Al prestigio de su carta une un sentido de la hospitalidad sin límites, se maneja con elegancia y calculada cercanía entre los clientes multiplicando el placer gastronómico. En otoño e invierno pregunte si tienen cardo rojo. Además de las pencas en menestra, Raquel e Idoia lo preparan crudo con un suave aliño de vinagre que resulta delicioso. Las pochas de Labayen –“que son verdura”, le repetirá- las hacen muy ligeras, sin perder nada de su sabor. Más contundente es el revuelto de ajete con huevos, hongos y foie; e imprescindibles las anchoas rebozadas o el chuletón de vaca vieja. Pero lo mejor es dejarse guiar por la verdura de temporada, que lejos de ser una guarnición accesoria es el verdadero reclamo y la que debe marcar el sino del almuerzo. La cuajada ahumada de Ulzama y el coulant de chocolate caliente con helado merecen mucho la pena. Por delante, la casa le habrá recibido con unas chistorras gloriosas y tomate del que no queda con su aceite de oliva y, por detrás, abrocharán el servicio con unos canutillos de Casa Ezeiza de Tolosa. Pida grappa Cuntacc, que nunca falta desde que Ancelotti le enviara una caja al restaurante.
No es mal plan. Se come de fábula y el local invita a repetir. Pero sobre todo habrá estado como en casa y se llevará con usted la sensación de que deja algo parecido a una bonita y amistad con esta familia navarra. Mil anécdotas pueden contar Juan Miguel y Anabel: desde aquella ocasión en la que no pudieron darle mesa al Rey emérito porque el local estaba lleno y se negaron a anular a algún cliente habitual, hasta las visitas de celebrities de todo el orbe, de los habituales primeros espadas de la política, la economía y el periodismo nacional o su amigo “Juanito” Serrat, un fijo en Sagasta 14. Pero eso no es lo importante: la clave es que trata a todos por igual. Famosos o desconocidos, con el respeto que merece quien va a La Manduca a comer. Por eso se les quiere tanto. Con suerte llegamos a las últimas alcachofas de mayo, esa arma secreta de la diplomacia azagresa.
La Manduca de Azagra, en Madrid.
Para mí el mejor restaurante de Madrid. Por el género y por atención de los dueños y del personal. Seguir así.
Que familia más impresionante,como me acuerdo como lloramos todos para poder abrir el restaurante con aquel constructor tipo bandolero con un brazo en cabestrillo que engaño a esta familia pero que tuvimos que ponerles las pilas para poder abrir esa gran ilusión que había en esta familia.
Gracias por acordarte de mi en este resumen que habéis redactado. Gracias
Por cuidar el detalle, hasta el pan es un espectáculo
No tengo aún el placer, pero ya tengo el deseo y la ilusión en el paladar.
Salud
Pepe Begines.
Esplendor en los fogones!!
Salud
La comida es un espectáculo pero la atención de los dueños y el local invitan a largar veladas de buena conversación como en ningún lugar en Madrid
Qué sitio más maravilloso y qué bien se siente uno en esa casa.!! Salud.
Autenticidad esa es la palabra mágica para definir a la estupenda familia de La Manduca de Azagra
Ánimo, Anabel y Juanmi . YA FALTA MENOS. .Un abrazo enorme .
Juanmi y Anabel suponen un valor humano que hacen de la visita a la Manduca un evento único con vocación de continuidad.
Los platos logradísimos y el local, son estímulo para un siempre deseado regreso.
Merece mención aparte la calidez de esta pareja Navarra y el personal que atiende a los comensales que sumados, son imán y alegría.
No conozco ningún restaurante que aúne cocina, trato al cliente, arquitectura y ambiente como La Manduca de Azagra. Qué ganas de volver!
Muchos años, amigos !
Desde Art-quitect a la Manduca !
Salud!
El mejor liderado por los mejores… siempre un placer!
Son imbatibles ¡ Gracias por su comentario
Gracias por su comentario
Es un equilibrio difícil, ciertamente. Gracias por su comentario
Viva México ¡ Gracias por su comentario
Lo comparto. Gracias por su comentario
Hay que volver ¡
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