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La famiglia que come unida permanece unida

El chef italo-argentino Mauro Colagreco, triestrellado en su Mirazur, recoge en un libro las recetas familiares, con aroma a domingo de asados y los dulces de la abuela Tota

ediodía y atravieso con un torbellino de niños las puertas de un edificio clásico monumental, una de esas escuelas palacio construidas a principios del siglo XIX típicas de La Plata, mi ciudad natal. En el momento de la salida reímos, estoy contento y tengo mucho apetito. Fuera me espera mi madre. Durante los doscientos metros que nos separan de nuestra casa y que recorremos a pie hablamos mucho. Aunque incapaz de reproducir ese diálogo, sé cual pepita de oro en el río de la memoria, que será mencionado el nombre del plato que voy a comer en unos instantes y que mi madre ha elaborado con sus propias manos: ñoquis, puchero, tortilla de patatas, albóndigas con salsa de tomate, puré…”. La familia, la memoria, la infancia. Ese es un cóctel sumamente atractivo y contundente. Contiene todo lo necesario para que se active el mecanismo que nos traslada al tiempo en el que éramos felices solo con la promesa de un plato caliente en la mesa de la casa materna. Mauro Colagreco (La Plata, Argentina, 1976) ha hecho ese viaje introspectivo para escribirlo, darle forma y confirmar que recurrir a las emociones del pasado nos conecta con lo que somos y que cualquier recuerdo especial vinculado a un plato siempre conduce a la madre. Y a un día de la semana, el domingo: “Reunión familiar para el asado, celebración laica argentina que reúne a tres generaciones alrededor de las brasas, la comida, los juegos y las canciones”.

En El sabor de la familia (mi cuaderno de recetas) (Planeta Gastro), escrito con la colaboración de Daniele Gerkens y las fotografías de Matteo Carassale, Colagreco planta un libro de cocina inusual, sencillo, profundo y auténtico. El cocinero triestrellado de Mirazur (Menton, Francia) no trata de impresionar con su celebérrima Remolacha Crapaudine cocinada en costra de sal de caviar Osetra o su Grisini de salsifi, lardo y trufa. Los cazadores de recetas de postín se equivocan de libro. Aquí va a encontrar sopa de pescado, estofado de ternera o raviolis de acelgas espinacas y sesos, humus de pistacho y lima; su receta de los huevos rellenos, la mantequilla de anchoas o la pizza de doble masa, el dulce de leche, las delicias de naranja de la tía Graciela o la tarta de membrillo de la abuela Tota. La familia, en definitiva. Es una declaración de intenciones a favor de la sencillez. “Su máxima ambición no es cruzar el planeta en un avión privado, ni presumir de que el sol nunca se pone en sus mesas, ni decir que ha reinventado la gastronomía. El sueño de Mauro, tal como lo entiendo, es darle sentido a la cocina, a su cocina. Y también reconciliar al hombre con la naturaleza, con el planeta. Para él, el cerebro, el corazón y las manos están conectados y cuando los tres están alineados los milagros son posibles”, dice de él la periodista Daniele Gerkens.

Lo que ha escrito Colagreco son sus memorias gastronómicas, un género que debería popularizarse entre los grandes chefs: ayudaría a reconocer su cocina y a entender de donde viene cada cual. Estas memorias son más trascendentes -y definen al cocinero que es hoy- que cualquier libro de recetas de Mirazur, el restaurante del único chef extranjero que ha colocado en Francia la tripleta de Michelin. Porque detrás de cada uno de los platos hay un tiempo vivido, una anécdota, unas risas, un paisaje, una estación del año con sus ingredientes, la textura del tiempo que pasa, unos afectos, unas ollas al fuego y unos aromas indestructibles. Es un libro romántico, que invita al ejercicio individual de hacer memoria y volver a ser niños. En su caso, tras los fogones estaba Rosa América, su madre. Era notaria, madre de cuatro hijos y cocinera. Milanesas, buñuelos de espinacas, ensalada de remolacha y patata, pollo con manzana y su familiarmente legendaria tortilla de patatas. Colagreco confiesa que se emociona y se hace niño solo con recordarlo.

Es, a la vez, un libro poético porque contiene la esencia de las cosas y le habla al corazón con una prosa cuidada, sugestiva y elegante. Y es un libro universal porque detrás de sus vivencias están las de cada uno de nosotros.

Colagreco se formó en las cocinas de Bernard Loiseau, Alain Pasard, Alain Ducasse y Guy Martin, nombres míticos de la gastronomía gala. En 2006 apostó por una aventura empresarial gastronómica que terminaría convirtiéndolo en el mejor cocinero del mundo y ameritando las tres estrellas michelín en su Mirazur, un restaurante a 30 kilómetros de la frontera italiana, sobre el Mediterráneo, entre limoneros y huertos de hierbas aromáticas, donde Julia, su mujer, lo domina todo menos los fogones. Colagreco, que presume de que le gusta regar sus tomateras con una camiseta vieja agujereada, es a su manera un antihéroe, el antidivo, rara avis en la cocina actual. Lo que transmite en el libro parece auténtico y detrás de cada plato se intuye la pulsión festiva y fraternal de un domingo de salchichas a la boloñesa entre hermanas, tíos y primos manchados de tomates hasta las trancas.

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