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La gamba roja, la nueva vedette del Mediterráneo

El crustáceo, que se pesca hasta 850 metros de profundidad, ocupa ya un lugar privilegiado en la alta cocina y ha llegado a alcanzar el precio de 370 euros el kilo. Roca, Dacosta y Lana reivindican su calidad gastronómica y su versatilidad

a gamba roja es como el ex bético Joaquín: está en todos lados. La eclosión del crustáceo en los últimos años la hace omnipresente en las mejores mesas de España en tamaños y precios que empiezan a ser imposibles. Palidecen los bogavantes, las langostas, las cigalas de tronco y sus hermanas las gambas blancas, marginadas ante la moda gastro, aunque ha de decirse ya en el primer párrafo que el aprecio que le tienen cocineros y comensales es justo y necesario dada la calidad del producto. Y aunque no siempre fue así, hoy es la nueva vedette del Mediterráneo. A su paso se encienden los focos, suena la orquesta y se hace la algarabía en niños y mayores.

Si tiene interés o si desea que se lo despiertan acuda a la librería a por el Libro de la gamba roja (Planeta Gastro) que han escrito Quique Dacosta, Joan Roca y Benjamín Lana. Los dos primeros, archiconocidos e hiperestrellados cocineros de Denia y Girona. Lana es reconocido periodista especializado y director gastronómico del Grupo Vocento. Lo que han escrito es un tratado sobre la gamba roja, un libro con interesante y riguroso contenido científico, es a la vez un homenaje a los profesionales y las familias que viven de su pesca, así como una invitación a disfrutar de su carne delicada y sus sabor profundo y adictivo.

La gamba roja nace blanca

El epicentro de la gamba roja está en Denia (Alicante) y Palamós (Girona), aunque se pesca en todo el Mediterráneo, desde Garrucha (Almería) donde también goza de fama hasta Murcia y Baleares e incluso en la costa atlántica onubense, donde también se conocen como alistados. Su pesquería se extiende también por el Atlántico portugués hasta las Azores y Cabo Verde. En cada puerto cambia de nombre: gamba roja, rosada, rayao, listado, moruno, alistado…Pues aquí va un “secreto”: la gamba roja nace blanca. Se pesca en las proximidades de los cañones submarinos, como la zona de Palamós, en Cap de Creus o Blanes, el canal de Ibiza, Denia y los golfos de Alicante y Vera. Su captura se produce hasta 850 metros de profundidad, donde la presión es ochenta veces mayor que en la superficie. Al extraerla se produce una descompresión veloz y rotunda que fractura las membranas de la células coloreadas (melanocitos) de la gamba. La melanina roja que encierran dentro se escapa y se extiende por el caparazón lo que da paso al característico color rojo bautizándola para siempre.

Récord: a 370 euros el kilo

Las hembras siempre son más grandes (excepcionalmente hasta 22 centímetros) y el color violáceo de la cabeza de los ejemplares de mayor tamaño no guarda relación con su frescura: es la señal de que el proceso de maduración sexual de las hembras ha llegado a su punto máximo de maduración. Ellas llegan a vivir hasta siete años frente a los cinco de los machos. Estos últimos son tipo zánganos: no tienen labores reconocidas en su comunidad social, ni luchan entre ellos, solo fecundan, fecundan y fecundan a las hembras. “Se ha convertido en el producto pesquero fetiche por excelencia, en una suerte de oro rojo, por cuanto es el más rentable económicamente de todos cuantos extrae la flota pesquera española”, explica Benjamín Lana. El pasado 28 de septiembre se vendieron en Denia los ejemplares de primera categoría a 290 euros el kilo. Las más pequeñas (no pueden pesar menos de 60 gramos cada una) a 120 euros. Un día después, las más grandes se subastaron a 370 euros, coincidiendo con el festiva DNA (Denia) que impulsa Quique Dacosta, según contó en su crónica el periodista Alberto Luchini, premio nacional de gastronomía.

La controversia que afecta a la gamba roja es la forma de pescarla. Se captura con artes de arrastre, que es la especialidad posiblemente más agresiva ya que arrasa los fondos marinos de forma indiscriminada. Sin embargo, el propio sector ha ido autorregulando su actividad con el afán de conservar el tesoro marino del que viven hasta cien mil personas en nuestro país, según calculan los autores. Se han introducido las llamadas puertas deflectoras hidrodinámicas, de menor peso y con un impacto más reducido en el fondo, aunque este es un debate abierto. Las cofradías de pescadores han puesto pie en pared también con los tamaños de las capturas: en esta pesquería no hay determinada una talla mínima legal. Se permite incluso la captura de juveniles (gambetas). En algunas zonas se utilizan ya copos con una red de malla más grande, lo que permite que se liberen las piezas más pequeñas. Este ejemplar solo se pesca durante 170 días al año.

El néctar del mar

Lana explica en el libro, por qué esta gamba es un manjar. Imposible explicarlo mejor y con más precisión. “El cefalotórax de las gambas es un cofre repleto de néctares gastronómicos deliciosos, fuente de untuosas de sensaciones para acariciar nuestro paladar, una suerte de saborizante potentísimo que activa las papilas gustativas y las ganas de seguir tomando una tras otra como pocos productos naturales. Poco nos importa que nos estemos comiendo a sorbos el corazón, el hígado, el estómago, las gónadas y el cerebro del animal, entre otros órganos, porque saben a gloria bendita”. Y se rebela contra el uso descontextualizado que se hace de las recomendaciones de las advertencias de la Agencia Española de Seguridad Alimentaria de no chupar las cabezas de los crustáceos porque contienen cantidades de cadmio que puede acumularse en los riñones de los consumidores. “Si el tabaco sigue siendo legal (..) no creo que tengamos que estigmatizar ahora a las gambas, de las que `no nos fumamos´ un paquete al día”, concluye.

Denia vs Palamós

La creatividad y el empleo de nuevas técnicas han elevado a los altares a la gamba roja, que si bien es cierto que a la brasa, a la sal, plancha o cocidas son un monumento sin más aditivos, no lo es menos que los fósiles de gamba que ha elaborado Dacosta, los panes helados, la salsa XO al estilo chino utilizando gambetas o la pasta belachan de gambas saladas y fermentadas o incluso una suerte de garum o el polvo de gambas de Roca, son otras cumbres a su manera y estilo con el excelso producto de las profundidades mediterráneas. A la vez, por supuesto, tiene usted un extenso catálogo de arroces, o guisos con fideos y gambas rojas que le reconfortan con la vida.

En esta liga que disputan el Palamós (con Joan Roca de capitán) y Denia (Quique Dacosta) no hay vencedores claros, solo una catarata creativa, mucho mimo y respeto por la Aristeus Antennatus, tal es el nombre científico del manjar que la madre guisandera de los Roca la cocinaba con brandy en su modesto restaurante de Girona. Joan Roca recuerda que fue a los catorce años cuando tuvo por primera vez una gamba roja en sus manos: “Y el rojo exaltado se tatuó en mi retina”.

Su hermano Josep despliega una sabiduría delicada para explicar cómo ha de maridarse una gamba roja, cómo debe ser su encuentro con el vino y lo hace con registros poéticos mediterráneos e influencias refinadas del lejano oriente. La gamba solo tolera “cocciones súbitas, evanescentes”, y agradece que se sea consciente “de su fragilidad y delicadeza” porque “ama la tibieza y se excita ante el aceite brioso y ardiente donde solo las patas aceptan el envite bullicioso”. Ella, dice Pitu Roca “es caprichosa, elegante y seductora (..) prefiere encuentros amables en el paladar”.

Erizos, galeras, cangrejos arroceros …y gambas rojas

Quique Dacosta recuerda su paso por las lonjas cargando cajas cuando empezaba su carrera profesional y ofrece un dato: la gamba roja de Denia, que años atrás no era un producto de postín destinado a la alta gastronomía, ha multiplicado su precio por 25 en dos décadas. En su caso, utiliza un tono reivindicativo, vinculado al territorio y a la singularidad del marisco: “En aquellos años en los libros de cocina franceses abundaban langostas, salmones, caviar, fuagrás, cigalas bogavantes…pero la gamba roja no apareció hasta primero de los años noventa, cuando la fuimos introduciendo en Quique Dacosta restaurante en platos de alta cocina”. Prevalecía entonces una mirada despreciativa y supuestamente ilustrada que solo valoraba lo que venía de otros lares: “Hablábamos entonces de lo local convirtiendo al producto en interlocutor activo de mi cocina”, una declaración de intenciones que completó ofreciendo otros productos como el erizo, la gamba pato, la musola el cangrejo arrocero o la galera. “Cualquier producto típico de mi región, proveniente o no del mar, debía formar parte de mi oferta, y con ella, construir mi relato. Un nuevo relato en el universo gastronómico” concluye.

La noble señora” en llandeta o con granizado de parmesano

El Libro de la gamba roja ofrece tres capítulos insustituibles y complementarios para entender porqué este producto ha trascendido al olimpo de la alta cocina: recetas tradicionales, recetas contemporáneas y técnicas.

Entre las elaboraciones más clásicas, digamos de inspiración más popular e incluso familiar, Roca propone algunas como el carpaccio de gambas, las gambas flambeadas al brandy, el pollo rustido con gambas o los fideos con gambas. Dacosta añade otras sugerencias: Arroz del senyoret, cóctel de gambas, gambas amb bleda, la gamba hervida y la Llandeta de gamba roja.

Entrar en el mundo de la contemporaneidad de ambos triestrellados es tan interesante como sorprendente y complejo. En Can Roca, por ejemplo, se trabaja la gamba con granizado de parmesano y confitura de limón, la sopa de cerezas con sauco y agmba o una fideuá de gambas sin fideos. Mientras que Dacosta propone trabajos como la escarcha ahumada de hierbas y gambas, el satay de gambas, coco y mango verde o el coulant de gamba roja de Denia.

Respecto a las técnicas -maestría y experiencia-, detallan, generosos pero también sabedores de que conocer los entresijos de cada elaboración es condición necesaria pero no suficiente, cómo manejar el exquisito producto mediterráneo en un garum, en polvo, en crujiente, a vapor, en papillote o en gratén.

Cómo será la calidad del crustáceo, que como dice Lana “ha salido airosa” de su paso por la alta cocina “tras ser sometida a todo tipo de técnicas, procesos y creatividades en los últimos veinte años” hasta convertirse en lo que llama “la noble señora”.

*Fotos: Jake Abbot en “Libro de la Gamba Roja”

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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