La tortilla vaga de Sacha: la más inspiradora (o copiada) del mundo
¿Es posible proteger las recetas con derechos de autor? El debate jurídico se cruza con la vindicación del hecho cultural que representa la gastronomía
Se imaginan que una gran corporación multinacional comprara los derechos de autor de la receta de las patatas bravas o de las croquetas y que ningún bar pudiera cocinarlas y venderlas sin pasar por la ventanilla? Terrible distopía. Una receta es una obra ¿de arte? Bueno, ese es otro debate que se abre en paralelo. Pero, en cualquier caso, es una creación culinaria. Una obra gastronómica. Consiste en transformar la materia prima utilizando conocimientos, técnicas, tirando de cultura gastronómica, apelando a la creatividad, con sentido de la estética y poniendo, por lo tanto, una buena parte de la personalidad y la identidad del cocinero en cada una de ella. ¿Todas las recetas son una obra merecedora de tal nombre? Pues es de suponer que no. Si no se dan ciertas circunstancias de las enumeradas posiblemente no tengan esa calidad definitoria. Hay puentes que son obras de arte y otros que solo destacan porque no se hunden. Y son maravillosos, pero posiblemente nadie los considere una obra de arte. El caso es que la propiedad intelectual de los platos no es algo que haya preocupado históricamente a los chefs. Pero de un tiempo a esta parte el debate se ha abierto, especialmente a partir del desarrollo de una potente cocina de vanguardia en España, de la globalización de la gastronomía así como de la incorporación de la tecnología y la investigación.
Si hablamos de “sferificaciones” no hace falta explicar que nacieron en El Bulli de Ferrán Adriá, como el uso de las pinzas médicas para colocar los detalles más minimalistas de los platos, las pipetas de plástico o los “aires” de sabores a elegir. Si le sirven una milhojas de anguila con manzana caramelizada y foie gras sepa que el padre de la criatura se llama Martín Berasategui; donde le propongan algo parecido a un carro de salazones sin momificar sepan que fue Quique Dacosta el que inventó el túnel de sal para sacar huevas de maruca con la textura de una torta del Casar. O el pastel de cabracho de Arzak o el gazpacho de cerezas de Dani García. Como Bocusse inventó la sopa Giscard D´Estaing en un nido de hojaldre y una potente base de trufa, Michel Bras el coulant de chocolate o Joel Robuchon reinventó el puré de patatas alterando la proporción de patatas y mantequilla de la buena hasta conseguir algo tan sencillo como complejo y adictivo. Y así hasta el infinito.
Las recetas no se consideran una invención por lo que no están protegidas por la ley de patentes, pero sí pueden estar amparadas y protegidas bajo los derechos de autor. En la librerías especializadas puede encontrar varios libros con jurisprudencia al respecto. Es posible proteger tanto su sabor, como el diseño, el procedimiento, el emplatado, la composición y la presentación. Lo que es más difícil es establecer realmente qué recetas surgen de la nada. Cuáles no han heredado, copiado o han sido inspiradas por otras precedentes, sea por el género empleado, las cantidades o las técnicas. Tarea difícil. El abogado Francisco Molins considera que “la vinculación gastronómica a las tradiciones y culturas culinarias de un pueblo dificulta la concepción de obra susceptible de protección de propiedad intelectual. Muchas de las recetas forman parte del saber general, y difícilmente pueden reivindicarse derechos de autor respecto de ellas”, pero añade que, sin embargo, “cuando concurran en la receta y en la presentación del plato los caracteres de originalidad, en el sentido de que implique un ejercicio intelectual detrás, será susceptible de tutela por los derechos de autor”. El artículo 10 de la Ley de Propiedad intelectual no protege explícitamente las obras culinarias pero tampoco las excluye si se atienen a los requisitos generales de la norma respecto a la originalidad y la expresión a través de cualquier medio, soporte, tangible o intagible, que en este caso, serían más que tangibles.
Una de las creaciones más repetidas -o copiadas o inspiradoras o recreadas o replicadas o…utilice el verbo que se le antoje- es la tortilla vaga de Sacha Hormaechea, de 60 años, uno de los cocineros más celebrados dentro y fuera de la profesión. La Botillería y Fogón que lleva su nombre ha cumplido ya 51 años abierto, desde que su padre, Carlos, de origen catalán y vasco; y su madre, Pitila, gallega, abrieran sus puertas en Madrid. Desde que tiene uso de razón ha rondado esos fogones, hasta que se hizo cargo de la casa. Sacha, que obtuvo el premio nacional de fotografía, empezó como fotógrafo en cambio 16 cuando aún era menor de edad. Ha publicado más de 50 libros de fotografía, entre ellos el último del Celler de can Roca, y ha participado en 25 cortometrajes y películas.
Su tortilla vaga es una creación divertida, original y sabrosa: una tortilla cuajada solo por un lado, sin darle la vuelta. Admite tantas variedades como se le ocurran al cocinero. Es deliciosa la que incorpora piparras y morcilla. Surgió persiguiendo el recuerdo del revuelto de perrechicos -una pequeña seta muy apreciada- de la abuela del arquitecto Rafael Moneo, quien lo desafió a replicarlo. “Cada vez se lo hacía de una forma, con el huevo más batido, menos batido, con más huevo, con menos y no atinaba hasta que decidí hacerlo solo por un lado y así tenía el punto del revuelto. Una tontería muy divertida. Se le puso tortilla vaga y se le quedó para siempre”, explica. Y le parece estupendo que su vaga se replique hasta la saciedad: “Me parece fantástico que la hagan por todos lados, eso es que ha funcionado, que la hagan y cuanto más, mejor”. Albert Adriá la incluyó en su carta de 1900 como homenaje y José Andrés la hace en su Little Spain de Nueva York y los hermanos Roca la incluyen también en la carta de Normal, su restaurante de Girona.
Su tortilla vaga la encontrará allá por donde vaya, con mil variantes y puntos de cocción, con ingredientes, tamaños y formas singulares, pero siempre perezosa, cuajada solo por una cara. “No creo que sea necesario recoger las recetas bajo los derechos de autor. Primero porque hay miles de variantes y todo cambia de una a otra y segundo porque haría que el hecho cultural que implica la cocina se perdiese”. Sacha le ve sentido a ese tipo de protección respecto a los productos industriales pero no a las creaciones gastronómicas. Si fuera así solo las grandes corporaciones podrían comprar los derechos de las grandes recetas, las más originales, y se apropiarían de ellas, limitando a bares y restaurantes de buena parte de su producción”.
Sacha celebra el excelente momento de la gastronomía española pero deja una reflexión: “Hemos simplificado las raíces de nuestra cocina, el vocabulario es menos rico. Hay que ir más allá de las bravas, la ensaladilla y las croquetas. Hay que empezar a remover un poco más nuestro recetario emocional y recuperar platos que eran esenciales y gustosos y se han ido perdiendo. Y volverlos a poner con la otra mirada que nos permite la tecnología. Estamos haciendo una cocina emocionalmente más pobre”. Recuperar, por ejemplo, de las cocinas de Cunqueiro o Luján los guisos con naranjas amargas y pescadillas, o de Xabier Domingo las alcachofas con azafrán y tuétano. “Hay que tirar de la memoria”, dice el cocinero cuya tortilla vaga es ya leyenda.
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