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Las tortillitas de camarones, misterio entre dos harinas

El taller “Andalucía come cultura” explora los límites de la renovación del plato típico de la gastronomía gaditana de litoral

omo muchas de las recetas populares, la tortillita de camarones pierde su nombre, su receta y sus influencias en el desván de los tiempos. Hoy sublimada como plato típico de la gastronomía gaditana, en torno a ella gira el debate sobre las autenticidades, el origen y su consistencia. Resumiendo mucho podría decirse que el gran elemento a debate está relacionado con su elaboración: crujiente, transparente y lo más etérea posible; o abuñuelada, con masa más gorda, opaca y más contundente. En realidad, en las cocinas gaditanas se han hecho de los dos maneras desde que en 1935 Catalina Pérez primera propietaria de la Venta de Vargas (san Fernando) echara la primera tortillita -que no lleva huevo- en la sartén. Después fue su nuera, María Picardo, cuya familia sigue hoy regentando la venta, célebre por ser refugio y santuario de Camarón de la Isla, quien afinó la receta y la estableció de la forma hoy más reconocible. Esos son los datos que ha recogido en sus investigaciones Manuel Ruiz Torres, escritor, investigador gastronómico y miembro de la Academia Andaluza de Gastronomía y Turismo. Sostiene que la primera cambió la proporción en el uso de harinas -de garbanzo y trigo- para aligerarla y la segunda sustituyó el agua de la receta por sifón, lo que permite que afloren esos encajes que a modo de finas florituras construyen tan suculento bocado.

Panissas, farinatas, frisciêus…

Aunque en realidad el origen de las tortillitas está en la gastronomía que trajeron consigo los genoveses que arribaron a Cádiz entre el siglo XVIII y el XIX atraídos por el comercio de Indias, que tenía en Cádiz su puerto fuerte. Ruiz Torres, que investigó y plasmó en un libro imprescindible los arcanos sobre la gastronomía de 1812, afirma que el origen de la celebérrima tortillita está en recetas genovesas como la panissa, la tortá, la farinata o la torta de di Ceci, que en 1917 la genovesa María Finochio y Maglio ya despachaba en la esquina de las calles Porriños y Amargura cuando en Cádiz se mezclaban los acentos como en una Babel sureña. “La tortillita de camarones es un proceso evolutivo de culturas, técnicas e ingredientes”, explicó el investigador en un taller sobre las tortillitas de camarones organizado en el restaurante Aponiente dentro del ciclo Andalucía come cultura, patrocinado por la Junta de Andalucía y dirigido por el gastrónomo Fernando Huidobro.

En el taller, Ruiz Torres aportó una novedad sobre la historia de las tortillitas: la más que posible influencia en su origen de los frisciêu genovesas, una papilla de harina de trigo y garbanzo y agua que incorporaba bacalao, pescado seco incluso morralla. En algunos recetarios antiguos españoles ya figuraban los rebozados en talvina, una especie de gachas espesas con restos de harina a la que se añadían productos dulces como el azúcar o la miel y que fueron introducidas en España en la época Andalusí.

EL Faro de El Puerto vs Aponiente

El taller, al que asistieron unas veinte personas entre periodistas y divulgadores especializados y restauradores, pretendía poner en común el conocimiento sobre la receta, que en los últimos años se ha convertido en referencia total de la gastronomía litoral gaditana, saltando las fronteras provinciales. Precisamente esa extensión de la receta ocasiona, como es habitual y lógico, deformaciones importantes respecto a su cocinado y dificulta la identificación del producto. En el taller se analizaron dos modelos de entender las tortillitas. El de El Faro del Puerto, restaurante dirigido por Fernando Córdoba, un cocinero de referencia y maestro en el manejo de la receta así como de los platos de pescado; y Alan Iglesias, jefe de cocina de Aponiente. Ninguno de los dos hace una tortillita exactamente canónica, pero ambas están perfectamente encajadas en el imaginario y el gusto popular. Más clásica, aunque no tanto, la de Fernando y más vanguardista la de la Alan Iglesias y el chef Ángel León.

El Faro de El Puerto

La receta de Fernando Córdoba es una evolución de la de su padre, Gonzalo Córdoba, patrón mayor de El Faro y artífice del grupo gastronómico que hoy tiene tres restaurantes en la provincia. A Gonzalo se la contó María Picardo: la tortillita, que hoy se cocina en aceite de oliva, posiblemente comenzó friéndose en manteca de cerdo. La del Faro no es canónica en el sentido de que solo emplea harina de trigo, ha descartado la de garbanzo porque “le da demasiada consistencia, chupa más aceite y sale más gruesa”, explica Fernando Córdoba. Otra novedad que introdujo el cocinero es que sustituyó el perejil clásico por algas y eliminó la cebolleta para impedir que la masa fermente. Las fríe en grandes paelleras a 180 grados, cuanto más usado el recipiente, mejor para que no se peguen al fondo. El camarón siempre fresco, de las salinas de Cádiz. “El del porreo, pincha”, dice Fernando Córdoba.

Aponiente ofrece una receta y un acabado más vanguardista: un puro encaje, una filigrana frágil con la masa justa y transparente a más no poder. Su receta: 83% de harina de trigo, 17% de harina de garbanzo, cebolla y el perejil ya integrado en la masa. Y los camarones frescos.  A la tortillita le añaden una emulsión de perejil. Las fríen una a una en una minúscula sartén que hace de molde, humedeciéndolas permanentemente para que no se fracturen. El resultado es un desafío a la resistencia de los materiales, una frontera entre lo visible y lo invisible. Finísima, alveoladas y con pleno sabor. Una fritura al límite de la masa y el grosor mínimo que la física y la química exigen para ser constituidas como tortillita y puedan ser asidas. Ni mejor una ni peor otra. Ambas son crujientes pero cada una lo es a su manera. Ambas tienen todo el sabor de las salinas y de alguna forma recogen perfectamente la tradición pero desde la renovación.

Encontrará recetas de toda suerte y condición. La evolución es constante, aunque todo tiene unos límites, como son las congeladas o aquellas que se confunden directamente con un buñuelo y sueltan aceite y grasa como si no hubiera un mañana. Excelentes la que hacían en Los remos en San Roque, o las de El copo en Los Barrios, la de Balbino en Sanlúcar, la de El Faro de Cádiz o la de Casa Manteca en Cádiz. Cuestión de probarlas todas, consejo útil para no perder el rumbo gaditano.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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