Pan gallego: viaje al corazón de Galicia
Así se escribe la leyenda: hornos centenarios, molinos de piedra, panes alveolados de corteza crujiente y una pieza con personalidad propia en cada aldea. Edu Lavandeira hace un trabajo enciclopédico en su libro Pan gallego
alicia bien podría lucir en su bandera blanquiceleste una bolla de pan dentro de su escudo de armas. Y no habría nada irreverente, que el pan gallego es una institución, es cosa tan seria como el cáliz del escudo y es asunto tan relacionado con él que se ensamblaría a la perfección. Si Francia es el país de los mil quesos, Galicia es país de los cientos de panes. Si el pan por sí sólo es capaz de construir una identidad -que lo es- el pan gallego ha forjado una en cada aldea, pueblo o ciudad: cientos de panes parecidos pero diferentes, cada pieza con su historia y su personalidad, con su apellido y su horno, su boleado y su giro maestro de muñeca.
De aldea en aldea, de horno en horno
No se entiende la orfandad en la que vivía la legendaria historia del pan gallego hasta que ha llegado Edu Lavandeira, ha cogido su mochila y se ha hecho un Labordeta echándose al camino. Se ha embarrado los zapatos buscando el último horno vivo en cada aldea, ha visitado panificadoras y panaderías, ha escuchado a los maestros, recogiendo el que será el último testimonio vital de muchos de ellos antes de que sus saberes se pierdan como un eco en el océano.
Y ha comprobado algo que ya sabía porque sus abuelos maternos fueron panaderos en Melide (A Coruña): que cada artesano vive en el micromundo de su obrador, pegado a la mesa de amasar y vigilando el horno con el rabillo del ojo, ajenos a lo que hacen otros panaderos unos kilómetros más allá. Esa incontaminación es, precisamente, la que alumbra productos tan singulares. Existen algunas estandarizaciones básicas en la elaboración, pero porque cada panadero por su cuenta ha legado a las mismas conclusiones, no porque se compartan los arcanos. Y si no se comparten no es por la avaricia de retener los secretos y proporciones aún celados de cada masa. No se comparten porque Galicia, en parte, es así: minifundista hasta en el pan y con una lluvia interior en cada casa que la convierte en refugio y Estación Termini. “Ellos viven en su mundo, en su obrador. Rara vez salen, rara vez ven la luz del día. Por eso muchas veces solo conocen lo que hacen ellos o sus vecinos. Y ellos mismos, siendo gallegos, desconocen la grandeza y la riqueza de todo lo que hacemos en Galicia”, reflexiona Lavandeira, quien a la par de la admiración por ese trabajo de artesano sostiene que el futuro del pan tradicional gallego está condicionado a la modernización de las maneras antiguas de hornear. Y formula una apuesta: la creación de la escuela gallega de panadería que limpie, fije y dé esplendor al patrimonio panadero gallego.
Del mundo a Galicia
Edu Lavandeira (Vigo, 1981), es creativo audiovisual, autor de Maestros del pan, la serie de Canal Cocina; y panadero militante. Autor de Planeta Pan (Oberon), ha hecho el recorrido de fuera adentro: primero se ha recorrido el mundo conociendo y registrando los panes más sorprendentes de cada país y, solo después, se ha atrevido a recorrer Galicia para hacer lo mismo. Como si Marco Polo hubiera recorrido primero la Ruta de la Seda, desde Europa a Oriente Medio y Asia central, y después se hubiera paseado por los canales de su Venecia natal para conocer su entramado acuático. “Nunca había escrito un libro y que el primero fuera sobre algo tan trascendental como el pan gallego me abrumaba”. Sea como fuere, Lavandeira, el tipo que triunfa en sus canales de Instagram y Tik Tok con un millón y medio de seguidores manejando masas y horneándolas, ha construido el arca de Noé del pan gallego: al menos un par de ejemplares de cada tipo están a salvo por los siglos de los siglos tras ser recogidos, explicados, fotografiados y documentados en el libro Pan Gallego, que ha publicado con la misma editorial.
Arte, ciencia y leyenda
El pan gallego es un tercio de arte, un tercio de ciencia y un tercio de leyenda. Y una advertencia: el pan en Galicia fue cosa de las mujeres. Ellas lo amasaban, le daban forma, lo llevaban al horno y lo vendían en las ferias. Así funcionaba la cadena del pan artesanal gallego entre el siglo XVIII y el XX. A los hombres les estaba reservado el trabajo en el horno. Aún se emociona Lavandeira observando la estampa de la furgoneta del reparto de pan deteniéndose en cada casapuerta con el pan del día, una estampa prácticamente desaparecida en el resto del país. Un vestigio de un tiempo que se fue y del que solo queda el pan.
Panes con nombre propio
De entrada, existe una división tradicional entre los dos grandes grupos de panes en Galicia: los que se hacían en cada casa para autoconsumo y los panes más celebrados, con apellidos: el pan de Cea, el de O Porriño, Carral o Neda. Estos últimos tienen su origen en tareas o coyunturas determinadas: dar servicio a monasterios, ejércitos o abastecer a las grandes ciudades. En Neda (A Coruña), por ejemplo, una pequeña villa situada sobre un valle en el culo de saco de la Ría de Ferrol, se construyó a finales del siglo XVI la Real Fábrica de Bizcochos y Hornos de provisión por orden de Felipe II. La instalación disponía de 15 hornos y entre sus misiones más importantes estaba la de elaborar el bizcocho o pan de barco, una elaboración con el pan cocido dos veces (bizcocho viene del latín, bis cotes, o lo que es igual, cocido dos veces) lo que lograba deshidratar al máximo cada pieza hasta transformarla en algo parecido a una galleta crujiente. Desprovisto por completo de humedad, ese pan duraba muchos meses, proporcionando un alimento fundamental a los marineros en sus largos viajes por mar. Desde la Real Fábrica se abastecía a la Marina, que tenía su base en el puerto de Ferrol.
Cereales, molinos, hornos
En el pan gallego –“infinito y el mejor del mundo”, según Lavandeira- hay tres elementos que jalonan su historia. Los orígenes, el cereal, los molinos y los hornos.¡ El pan que más se ha consumido en Galicia históricamente se hacía con centeno. Cuando llegó el maíz de América en el siglo XVII se empezó a trabajar el de maíz. Los dos cultivos son más fáciles de trabajar en una Galicia con lluvia y frío que el trigo, que se adapta mejor a lugares secos y cálidos. Además, el pan de trigo de harina blanca estaba reservado a las clases altas y a los más pudientes ya que un kilo de grano mermaba hasta los 700 g de harina blanca. En cambio, como el pan más oscuro y tosco, que se hacía con harina integral de centeno o de maíz, era el que consumían las clases más populares dado que no había merma en la molienda. Tiempo ha también se panificó con harina de bellotas o de habas, sin aunque el autor haya encontrado información detallada respecto a aquellos panes. Con el diseño de la red de carreteras de Carlos III, en el siglo XVIII, Galicia se comunica mejor con Castilla, que junto a Andalucía eran las zonas productoras de trigo. Las carreteras permitieron que más allá del clima, el trigo fuera también referencia para para el pan gallego.
Pero, ¿qué es el pan gallego?
La idea más universal es el de una bolla (rosca) de trigo grande con mucha miga de color cremoso y húmeda. Un pan muy alveolado -con agujeros en la miga- con una corteza gruesa, bien tostada y crujiente. Aunque advierte Lavandeira que ese es solo un tipo de pan gallego. En el libro encontrará un recorrido amplísimo desde los panes mencionados con nombre de pueblo -un precursor de las denominaciones de origen pero más auténtico- pasando por otros muchos que se trabajan en cada rincón de Galicia. Y para los aficionados al turismo panarra, al final del libro, tiene un listado completo de panaderías que merece la pena visitar así como otro de distribuidores de harina gallega de calidad .
La geografía galaica del pan es pura diversidad. Es el caso de la panadería de la diminuta parroquia de Laro, perteneciente al municipio de Silleda, de la comarca de Deza, adscrita al partido judicial de Lalín, en la provincia de Pontevedra: esa matrioska geográfica-administrativa gallega que tanto juego hubiera dado de haber sido descubierta por el realismo mágico. En medio de un ecosistema de verdes prados está la panadería Lage, con un horno de leña de cien años. La tercera generación de panaderos sigue trabajando con la fórmula de los procedimientos heredados de abuelos a nietos. Hacen el pan igual que hace un siglo: harina de media fuerza, mucha agua, sal, fermento (masa madre) y muy poca levadura. No utilizan raquetas ni mesas: de la propia artesa cortan la masa con las manos y sin pesarla la introducen en un cubo de metal, la vuelcan en la pala y de ahí al horno.
Molinos de agua, de marea y de viento
Los molinos más antiguos de los que se tienen noticias son del siglo X. Los más tradicionales son de agua, concebidos para aprovechar la omnipresencia fluvial. La construcción es de piedra, de origen romano. Allí se molía el cereal, pero también fueron los molinos refugio, lugares de reuniones sociales entre vecinos e incluso “espacios para concebir hijos”. Eran propiedad de señores feudales o monasterios. Están, por un lado, los molinos llamados de herederos, propiedad de varias personas que los mantenían e iban legándolos de generación en generación. Y por otro, los de maquila, con un molinero al frente que se quedaba un porcentaje del grano que molía como forma de pago. En la vertiente atlántica de la comunidad también hay algunos molinos de mareas, que aprovechaban la subida del mar para poner en marcha el engranaje y moler el cereal. Incluso alguno de viento hubo en Galicia. Todavía algunos siguen produciendo harina y a juicio del escritor lo hacen con buen rendimiento. Son molinos de piedra tradicionales como el de Cuiña en Lalín, el de Quinto en Carballo y hasta hace poco el de Isabel en Cospeito.
Los hornos: de Pompeya a Galicia
Sostiene Lavandeira que si se observa un horno de Pompeya de hace 2000 años y un horno tradicional de Galicia apenas encontrará diferencias. La forma y el diseño son similares, aunque no el material ya que los de origen romano suelen ser de ladrillo y los gallegos de piedra. Estos consumían mucha más leña que los de ladrillo para alcanzar la temperatura necesaria. Hacer el pan en la casa era habitual, por los que proliferaban hornos por toda Galicia. Con el peligro de incendio para las casas, los hornos de leña fueron desapareciendo y se popularizaron los hornos comunales o comunitarios, donde los vecinos llevaban a cocer el pan. Solían ser de propiedad privada y se alquilaban por turnos con un hornero profesional encargándose de la cocción. Los hornos solían dejarse abiertos para que sirvieran de refugio a pobres y caminantes, que se arracimaban junto a sus piedras siempre calientes.
Dulces y empanadas
El libro, además de su carácter enciclopédico, es generoso en consejos, técnicas, herramientas y recetas. Si le echa paciencia, los ingredientes adecuados y un poco de habilidad puede hacer en casa el molete de Carballo, con su cuerno característico rematando la pieza; un pan cachado de Neda con aspecto de nalgas enredadas sobre sí mismas o una bolla del país: esa rosca crujiente que te hace salivar solo con verla. Ataca igualmente Lavandeira la bollería galega: prollas –“un bocado esponjoso, mantecoso, excesivo, cremoso y lujurioso” con una base de manteca cocida de vaca, anís y huevos-; bollas de nata, curruspiñadas, panes de huevo, boelardos -que se hacen en Gondomar (Pontevedra) para la fiesta de San Benito-, larpeiras, rosquillas de sartén y roscones de yema.
Y comete un error grave el autor. Imperdonable. Incluye unas páginas sobre las empanadas gallegas, ignorando, increíblemente en persona tan docta en la materia de masas y horneados, que las empanadas de su tierra merecen libro propio. Pero consten como aperitivo para ese nuevo libro que demandamos desde aquí y esperamos con justa impaciencia, la de maíz y zamburiñas -ese tesoro de la costa atlántica que también se elabora con berberechos-; la empanada de Liscos: trigo para la masa y cebollas, chorizos, tocino y panceta para el relleno; la empanada de bacalao con pasas que incorpora pimientos rojos y uvas pasas, originaria de la costa y las Rías Baixas; o la clásica de carne, con trigo en la cobertura y carne picada para el relleno que varía al gusto: raxo, de ternera, de pollo, jabalí, conejo, cerdo o zorza.
Dice Lavandeira que el lenguaje “de las manos panaderas” es “un idioma propio que se habla y se entiende en cualquier parte del mundo”. La única lengua que rompe la maldición de Babel. El pan gallego, en cualquier caso, tiene su propio lenguaje y habla por sí solo.
* Las fotos pertenecen a Edu Lavandeira.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Soy gallego y tú artículo me emociona. Abrazos
Como he tenido el placer de conocer la tierra de mis padres, allá por 70, me enamoré de ese sencillo y celestial pan desde que lo probé. Y sigue siendo el mismo.
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