Sangre y casquería en el plato: vade retro
Las tendencias sociales y las nuevas sensibilidades rechazan una cocina tradicional basada en las vísceras y la sangre. ¿Es viejuna la casquería?
l cocinero, presentador de tv, escritor y superpremiado Anthony Bourdain, un neoyorkino siempre iconoclasta y autor de dos libros provocadores e imprescindibles – Confesiones de un chef y Crudo – rompió todos los esquemas de la modernidad gastronómica cuando afirmó: “La buena comida, el arte de comer bien, es una cuestión de sangre, órganos, crueldad y putrefacción”. ¿Suena durito, eh? Sí. Suena duro porque ese pequeño ejercicio de autoafirmación de los arcanos de la cocina – y de la alimentación del ser humano – resumido en dos frases colisiona frontalmente con los usos y costumbres de la alimentación y la gastronomía moderna. La sangre y las vísceras están en retirada. El espectáculo de un plato hecho con sangre y vísceras cotiza hoy a la baja. La idea del sacrificio animal está desterrada. Una parte de la humanidad lo tiene claro y, con sus razones, detesta el sacrificio animal. Pero la otra no quiere saber qué ocurre en los mataderos, como si las vacas nacieran ya fileteadas y dulcemente acunadas en los lineales del Mercadona. Al menos hay tres elementos poderosos que marcan este debate: la sensibilidad animalista, que incluye el rechazo incluso estético a los elementos telúricos relacionados con la matanza y caza de los animales; la tendencia healthy, que conduce a la humanidad por nuevos caminos más cercanos al veganismo que a un ser humano carnívoro degustando una chuleta que deja una huella de sangre en el plato de loza; y la cocina fast food, las marcas globales que todo lo han plastificado, edulcorado, suavizado y camuflado. El espectáculo de la sangre está denostado. Estigmatizado.
La nueva edición de Máster Chef comenzó el pasado martes con una escena de terror: los concursantes se vieron en la obligación de cocinar una lamprea, que es un bicho curiosísimo que se pesca sobre todo en Galicia entre enero y marzo. La lamprea es una serpiente con 500 años de antigüedad que no ha evolucionado y que se alimenta de la sangre de otros congéneres marinos como el tiburón o el bacalao. Tiene unos dientes córneos y una boca circular que parece una ventosa, una manguera de extracción. De extracción de sangre. O sea, que en el origen del animal ya está la sangre que, como vil sanguijuela vampira, chupa a sus víctimas tras perforarles la piel. La receta cumbre de la lamprea es a la bordelesa, que incorpora la sangre del animal, vino tinto y básicos como la cebolla, el ajo, el aceite de oliva y un majado de pan frito. La cara de los concursantes no ocultaba el pavor de tener que manipular la serpiente viva y enfrentarse, de la mano diestra del cocinero gallego Pepe Solla, al corte, desangrado y cocinado de la lamprea. Pero no fue más que el reflejo de la sociedad actual.
La sangre, sea líquida, como espesante y potenciador de guisos o coagulada, y en la masa de la carne, es una parte de nuestra dieta que se remonta a cuando un neardenthal le colocó una punta de sílex a la lanza pensando en la primera chuleta de mamut. El paleontólogo Eudald Carbonell y la arqueóloga Cinta Bellmunt sostienen que “la carne nos hace humanos” y explican que los hombres prehistóricos no comenzaron a comer carne – presumiblemente, poco hecha – por esnobismo, sino como parte de evolución para expandir el cerebro humano: el consumo de carne redujo la longitud del intestino, lo que facilitó que el cerebro creciera. Los dos científicos han escrito un libro muy interesante: Paleo recetas. La dieta de nuestro orígenes para una vida saludable, en la que presentan 60 platos y dos formas de preparar cada elaboración: como los cocinarían hoy cocineros profesionales y como la haría un homínido. Por ejemplo, el antílope a la brasa con castañas.
En España hay una riquísima y ancestral gastronomía vinculada a la sangre. La más popular de las elaboraciones es la morcilla. La base es una masa cocida de sangre y manteca de cerdo y especias embutida en su tripa natural. Cada territorio le incorpora su gracia. La celebérrima de Burgos es con arroz y la hacen desde el siglo XVIII; en algunos sitios de Aragón la fabrican con cebolla, piñones, avellanas y un toque de canela; en la sierra de Huelva las hacen con sangre de cerdo ibérico y muy curadas para consumir en frío, en rodajas finas. En el Bierzo se come frita y fuera de la tripa, casi untada. En Beasain le ponen puerro, en algunos sitios de Galicia le agregan frutas -en Canarias, pasas –, en Asturias se ahúma pensando en la fabada y en Murcia le añaden pimentón dulce. En Andalucía, además, es muy popular el consumo de sangre de pollo frita, encebollada o guisada con tomate.
En una España más rural, menos comunicada, un poco menos vacía de lo que cuentan las crónicas de este siglo, en un tiempo en el que el cuadro de la Santa cena de latón presidía el comedor, rara era la casa en la que el 11 de noviembre no le llegaba su San Martín a un cochino – la matança do porco, en Portugal – para solaz y esparcimiento de la familia, pero también como proyecto económico para buena parte del año. La matanza era eso, lo que parecía: una fiesta de la sangre en la que participaba la familia entera, incluyendo a los niños, que se ocupaban de ahumar las morcillas. La utilización alimentaria de la sangre es una constante en todo el mundo. “La sangre es un alimento mágico”, afirma Henry Torres, de Acción contra el Hambre, en una entrevista en la Vanguardia. Su ONG participa en varios proyectos contra la anemia infantil en distintas zonas de Perú. Si antes de los tres años el menor arrastra déficit de hierro tendrá problemas de crecimiento y de desarrollo cognitivo. Para evitar este riesgo, las madres de zonas como Ayacucho consumen el ancestral charqui de sangrecita, un plato elaborado con sangre – y vísceras- deshidratadas al sol. Hoy se lo dan a los niños molido en polvo, media cucharada al día. En zonas de la región de Puno han reducido la anemia infantil del 66% al 12% en solo tres años.
En Corea utilizan la sangre de buey en una sopa contra la resaca: Haejangguk se llama y se guisa con verduras. Es parecida al Nam Tok tailandés, que incorpora además de la sangre de vaca o cerdo mucho picante y fideos. Los portugueses y brasileños utilizan la sangre de pollo o conejo para el arroz cabidela. En Hamburgo -origen conceptual del pelotazo de los Mc Donalds y demás artistas del gremio – es típica una sopa negra llamada Schwarzenauer, que lleva sangre de cerdo, vinagre, carne y tubérculos. Y aunque le suene más duro aún, en algunos países nórdicos, como Suecia, se hornean los llamados pasteles de sangre: hechos con un batido de sangre, cerveza, centeno, cebolla, mantequilla, sal y especias.
La otra derivada de esta cocina ancestral y también señalada por el dedo de los consumidores dotados de estómagos posmodernos es la casquería, también llamada menudencias, despojos o, en catalán, menuts. Sesos, hígado, riñones, tripas, morro, criadillas, mollejas, corazón y patas. Esa es la alineación titular. Pero también juegan los pulmones, las criadillas y otras partes blandas destinadas, en realidad, a la producción de carne en el animal. Está acreditado que son una fuente notable de hierro, vitaminas del grupo B, contienen fósforo, ácido fólico y zinc a raudales y son un alimento energético y antianémico. Circula un dato en portales especializados: los españoles consumimos 50 millones de kilos de casquería cada año. Sobre todo callos, hígados, patas, morros y riñones. Los tres territorios más consumidores son Cataluña, País Vasco y Madrid, ilustrísima ciudad casquera. Pero la casquería se consume absolutamente en todo el globo terráqueo. Cada país con sus preferencias y condimentos.
La historiadora y gastrónoma Almudena Villegas cuenta en Triclinium. Apicio, el precio de la ambición en Roma (Almuzara) que en la antigua Roma la casquería se consideraba una delicatesen. Menos eruditamente acreditado, en las aventuras de Astérix se observaba el gusto de los romanos por la gelatina de cabeza de jabalí, las colas de castor con sala de frambuesa y la pezuña de buey con nata frente al jabalí asado de los galos de la invencible aldea, considerado por la alcurnia de los campamentos de Babaorum, Laudanum, Aquarium y Petibonum un plato de lo más vulgar. Aún hoy en Roma la casquería es una parte muy relevante de su cocina. El quinto quarto le llaman, que es la parte que quedaba del animal para despachar a bajo precio tras haber vendido los otros cuatro cuartos a los nobles adinerados.
En España se comercializa, con altibajos, al menos desde el siglo XIII. Quienes no llegaban al solomillo, la emprendían con las tripas y el hígado: barato y nutritivo. Con el tiempo gozó de mala fama y de cierto desprestigio por su insalubridad. Hoy, las prácticas higiénicas y controladas en mataderos y mercados y una generación de cocineros jóvenes, junto a los clásicos que no fallan, han puesto al día la cocina de despojos.
En el verano de 2015, la fotografía de una cabeza de cerdo entera y frita, que se sirve con el seso, la lengua, la carrillera, las orejas y el morro, y que se come con las manos, estalló en las redes sociales. Detrás de ese plato de referencia está el madrileño Javi Estévez, cocinero de 35 años, el gran renovador de la cocina de menudencias. Su restaurante La Tasquería (Calle Duque de Sesto 48, Madrid) ofrece un menú compuesto casi íntegramente por piezas de despojos y desde hace tres años tiene una estrella Michelin. Un hito. Una carta desacomplejada, que suele renovar, y que le saca partido a piezas difíciles. Entre otras muchas elaboraciones son imprescindibles el taco de carrilleras y carabinero, la ensalada de hígado a baja temperatura, la fideuá de callos de bacalao y tendones de vaca. El embutido de lengua de cerdo ibérico o las zamburiñas con guiso de oreja de cordero y gratinadas al horno o las manitas de cerdo con alcachofas y cigala son espléndidos. Y los callos. ¡ Ay los callos¡. Calcula que debe llevar guisados unas seis toneladas de callos en seis años.
“Lo de la sangre es muy curioso: si lo llamamos sangre crea aprensión pero si le llamamos morcilla no tanta. Y hablamos de lo mismo. Mucha gente consume cosas sin saber que son: el foie gras hay quien ni sabe que es hígado de pato y se lo comen prácticamente crudo. O por ejemplo, la carrillera, que forma parte de la casquería pero está aceptada; o el rabo de toro, que se come con normalidad pero si digo que es de cordero o de cerdo, ya es casquería de nuevo”, explica Estévez. En su Tasquería sirve unas 3.000 cabezas de cochinillo al año y llevaba ya cocinados 6.900 platos de manitas y 17.000 rabitos de cerdo.
Su teoría es que “cuanto más fomentemos el consumo de casquería conseguiremos sacrificar menos animales. Lo que no hay son solomillos, lomos y jamones para todos. Hay que concienciar a la gente de que el consumo de casquería debe formar parte de nuestra dieta. De forma controlada aportan muchos beneficios: las cabezas de cochinillo que cocino antes se tiraban o se empleaban para hacer piensos”. El cocinero observa que la gente joven que va desarrollando afición a la gastronomía termina consumiendo casquería de forma natural: “Intentamos hacer un restaurante de casquería para gente que no le gusta la casquería y para los que sí les gusta. Hay platos donde el sabor, la presencia y la textura son reconocibles, pero para otros hacemos lo contrario: transformamos las texturas, afinamos los sabores, trabajamos en las presentaciones y hemos conseguido que mucha gente que no la habría probado lo haya hecho”, explica.
El profesor Juan Cruz Cruz, que imparte la asignatura de Alimentación y Cultura en la Universidad de Navarra, cuenta en su blog Regusto la aversión que sentía Miguel de Unamuno por la casquería del Madrid de finales del XIX: “La cocina con sus picantes, sus callos y caracoles y otras porquerías”, decía. Para Unamuno, según Cruz, “la casquería madrileña iba indisolublemente unida a un modo vulgar de entender la vida y a una cultura populachera y entontecida”. Estévez se ha propuesto justo lo contrario.
Pero no hay que ofuscarse. La casquería se ama o se detesta. Pero el tiempo, el aprendizaje gastronómico y la pérdida de ciertas prevenciones a veces conducen al paladar a caminos que creíamos imposibles. Es como aquella alumna que le confesó a Borges que Shakespeare le aburría enormemente, a lo que el escritor argentino le respondió: “Tal vez Shakespeare todavía no escribió para vos”.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Javi Estévez
Magnífico! Vivan los duelos y quebrantos y toda la casquería!
Un lujo nuevamente Antonio. Estupendo artículo. Recuerdo ir a comer con mi padre en Cádiz al Achuri morros de ternera y menudo. Para mojar sopón.
Querido Antonio. Nueva lección magistral de tus acciones gastronómicas. Recuerdo en Cádiz tomar unos riñones al jerez riquísimos en el Bar Caleta o Sin nombre, en San Juan de Dios.
Tapas de sangre en el Bar Bahía de Salvador Lucero en Ramón de Carranza esquina a Sánchez Barcaiztegui.. En el Carataza, también la preparaban muy rica y en el Burladero de Agustín El Melu, su mujer, lo preparaba muy ricos.
Acciones NO.
Aficiones, SI
Antonio. Me ha emocionado tu sanguinario goloso.
La semana que viene comeré en la tasqueria
El menudo que pone Pelayo en su bar Terraza es sublime!!
vivan ¡
Morros en el Achuri y El Sardinero ¡ grandes recuerdos Guillermo
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