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Tabernas centenarias de Sevilla, donde pasa la vida

Joaquín Lozano recupera el alma, la historia y el anecdotario de 34 establecimientos centenarios de la capital hispalense

i entra usted en un bar repleto de parroquianos arracimados hasta en tres filas en torno a la barra y le parece que ganar la barra para pedir una espumosa y helada cerveza es misión imposible pero, en plena desesperación y a punto de sucumbir, un camarero atento, ágil, espabilado y ,por lo general, amable le clava su pupila en su pupila ansiosa abriéndose paso visual entre las almas que le preceden – todos servidos, caña en mano- y con un gesto certero le señala invitándolo a pedir y le atiende y le sirve la cerveza y se la hace llegar entre las capas de cabezas y le calma la ansiedad y lo hace sentirse parte de la privilegiada clientela del local y le congracia con el género humano y con la mejor tradición del noble personal del gremio hostelero es muy posible que esté usted en un bar de Sevilla. Tal es el blasón de los mejores camareros de una de las ciudades que mejor entienden en el mundo el arte de compartir y recibir y cuyo personal adiestrado en la escuela clásica mejor ejecuta la técnica de hacerle sentir bien.

Si además está en un bar que puede ser tricentenario; en tabernas con 350 años, con el suelo de losa de Tarifa donde quedó aprisionado el alma de la ciudad antigua; casas fundadas el año de la exposición universal de 1929; bares erigidos sobre el hamman más cercano a la mezquita mayor de Sevilla; tabernas que se alzan sobre el edificio del cuerpo de guardia de la cárcel Real de Sevilla donde dio con su huesos Miguel de Cervantes por unas cuentas recaudatorias que nunca sumaban cuatro; o una bodega donde los hermanos Álvarez Quintero tomaban apuntes al natural para trasponer esa fauna humana de la ciudad a sus sainetes, si identifica esos lugares y es capaz de sentir la textura del tiempo, el paso de la vida y la permanencia perenne de las esencias puede confirmar que está en Sevilla.

Una ciudad se puede entender y conocer a través de sus mercados de abastos, sus cementerios y sus tabernas. Ahí hay más pistas e información que en los archivos municipales. Sevilla, ciudad donde hoy cohabitan tabernas y librerías desmintiendo la sentencia rancia que colocaba en contraposición falaz la cultura y el vino al abrigo de un bar, mantiene un parque de establecimientos centenarios señero y vivo. Y Joaquín Lozano Torres ha tenido el acierto, la pericia y el buen gusto de recopilar esa memoria de aquella ciudad de suelos sembrados con serrín en B, de bares (Fénix editora), con fotografías de Francisco Morales Ferraro. Lozano ha dedicado su vida profesional al transporte marítimo en España y Latinoamérica; y es sobre todo un devoto de las cosas de Sevilla. “Este libro es una dedicatoria a mis padres, quienes me inculcaron el gusto por el costumbrismo sevillano a través de una vida entera en los almacenes textiles Ciudad de Londres, en la calle Cerrajería, pleno centro de Sevilla”, dice.

Es un libro pertinente -porque sorprendentemente prácticamente no existía una compilación similar- y es imprescindible porque tiene vocación de ejercer de guía para quienes quieran conocer las entretelas de la ciudad más allá de su fachada y las fotos de Instagram. El libro de Lozano indaga en lo que queda una vez que se asienta la polvareda que provocan los turistas al salir. Es la ciudad de siempre, la de la memoria sevillana. El libro pisa los caminos de la historia, la cultura, la leyenda, el paisanaje y la gastronomía en locales que comenzaron siendo en su mayoría despachos de vinos, avanzaron después poniendo un trozo de queso o algún embutido, arencones en salazón y algo de cuchareo para terminar siendo lugares de referencia por sus especialidades: la aceituna gordal, el salchichón de Riera, la pavía de bacalao, espinacas con garbanzos, la carrillada guisada, el jamón bien cortado, el solomillo al whisky (mantecado), la ensaladilla, las papas aliñás o unos boquerones en adobo que le prestan su aroma a media docena de calles, botas viejas con vinos de Jerez o Moriles, tinajas manchegas con tinto, coroneles y cerveza bien tirada.

Joaquín Lozano ha estudiado 34 establecimientos. Se ha situado en el centro de cada uno de ellos y ha dejado que el tiempo y la historia le permeen. No es un censo ni un listado: es un recorrido sentimental por esos templos que dan personalidad a una ciudad. Ha tirado de curiosidad, conocimiento, lecturas y anecdotario. No hay ciudad con futuro que no preserve su pasado. Sevilla, siempre mirándose en el espejo del río, mima con celo sus tradiciones, se engola y se pone guapa cuando es necesario, pero también saca las garras contra los intentos de borrar su identidad. Identidad que se refleja en los azulejos de Mensaque, en los edificios de Aníbal González, el arquitecto referente de la arquitectura regionalista Sevilla y director de la Exposición iberoamericana de 1929; en la alfarería popular que cubre fachadas y frisos; en las vigas de los techos, la caoba de los mostradores “de color parecido a los burladeros de La Maestranza” o el mármol ajado en la tapa de las mesas.

Fluye en el libro cierta nostalgia elegante de una Sevilla “que aunque sigue ahí, porque yo no echo nada de menos” corre el riesgo como muchas ciudades “de convertirse en un parque temático para turistas”. Para Lozano el santo y seña de la hostelería sevillana son la proximidad, la espontaneidad y ese ambiente “del pueblo que Sevilla lleva dentro y que es la cultura propia de Andalucía la baja”. En la conversación surge, inevitablemente, la figura del camarero canónico “que está en peligro de extinción” y cuenta una anécdota: “En El Rinconcillo había un camarero que tenía la oreja doblada. Aunque era algo de nacimiento la gente bromeaba diciendo que era por llevar la tiza en la oreja durante 50 años. Ya apenas hay camareros con medio siglo de experiencia en una barra”.

El rinconcillo (1670), con sus azulejos trianeros y sus vigas vistas “donde con cualquier cosa se acierta”. El Bar Giralda (1923) con recuerdos de Al Mutamid, rey de la Taifa de Sevilla, y un poema con versos de la alfarera Rumaikiyya: “Que esta separación sea como tu cintura: esbelta/ que sea como las flores de primavera: efímera/ no como la rosa de tu mejilla; perenne”. Las Teresas (1870), enclave estratégico del barrio de Santa Cruz, bar vecino del convento de las Carmelitas Descalzas de Jesús, donde moró Santa Teresa, una taberna que de haberse fundado trescientos años, fabula el autor, podría haber sido frecuentado por el director espiritual de la santa, Jerónimo de la madre de Dios, y así Santa Teresa “no hubiera sido tan estricta e implacable con una ciudad pecadora como la nuestra”. Duda Lozano que los nuevos bares que se abren vayan a cumplir cien años porque “todo se hace buscando la rentabilidad a corto plazo, no un modo de vida”. Hasta 34 tabernas encontrará en el libro, cada una con su sello, su historia y su personalidad; con su identidad, sus parroquianos y sus especialidades. Todas ellas son Sevilla.

*El autor de las fotos del artículo es Francisco Morales Ferraro.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

4.250 Comentarios

  1. Mi mayor enhorabuena,que tengas mucho exito

  2. Muchas gracias, Antonio por este cariñoso y estupendo artículo en el, con gran maestría, has plasmado el alma de lo que yo he tratado de trasladar en las líneas de mi libro.. Un fuerte abrazo-

  3. Me encanta el libro! Enhorabuena!!

  4. Enhorabuena Joaquín un libro fantástico con bonitas historias a través de los años .
    La lectura es simpática y de nada aburrida.. excelente

  5. Fantástica lectura que te transporta a una Sevilla mágica
    Enhorabuena Joaquín

  6. Excelente, ya me gustaría visitar juntos por lo menos 30 de las 34

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  9. Un consejo, tocayo, empieza poco a poco, 11. Sin prisas

  10. Gracias por leer el Post, buen fin de semana

  11. Gracias a ti por tu trabajo Joaquín.

    Un libro estimable, recomendable irrepetible. Un abrazo

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