Torrija y cierra España
La cuaresma y la Semana Santa renuevan un año más la tradición: la torrija recorre toda España, un dulce que nació como alimento para parturientas
res apuntes en breve sobre las torrijas antes de abrir plaza.
-1- Una torrija es un mecano de pocas piezas
-2- una discusión autonómica mal llevada sobre las torrijas y la autenticidad de unas sobre otras se convierte en un agravio territorial irreversible e incluso en una guerra incivil del tipo de la de la tortilla con cebolla o la ensaladilla con o sin atún.
-3- Las mejores torrijas, obviamente, son las de su madre y, en segundo lugar, las suyas y/o las de su señora o señor o sea quien sea su compañer@.
Sentadas las bases, digamos que la torrija española es un monumento gastronómico popular, nutritivo, calórico y barato que no requiere de grandes destrezas culinarias. Que por pura casualidad se consumen preferentemente en Semana Santa, aunque el calendario torrijero no está normalizado ni oficializado: en Cantabria se toman en Navidad o en el País Vasco en Carnaval, que es justo lo contrario de la cuaresma, por ejemplo. En su receta base-base, es decir en su forma virginal antes de empezar a echarle encima todo lo que se ocurre a cada uno, está el pan duro, la leche, la miel, el huevo y el azúcar. Y en algunos sitios, de acreditada tradición vitivinícola, vino blanco e incluso tinto, con sus varietales específicas.
En esto de indagar -nivel aficionadillo, ojo- un poco en la historia gastronómica o en el origen de recetas y platos entre libros, algún documento y Google, es un sobresalto continuo. Especialmente en internet, donde crece la sensación de que cada uno escribe básicamente lo que quiere. Tratar de confirmar algunos extremos, sacar la media y plasmarlo no siempre es fácil. Pero de lo que se deduce y la versión más repetida y aparentemente más rigurosa permite afirmar que las torrijas se asentaron en Semana Santa a mitad del siglo XIX, básicamente porque era un dulce que no contenía ninguno de los ingredientes prohibidos por la Iglesia. Eso del significado litúrgico del pan de la torrija y demás asociaciones religiosas no parecen tener sustento riguroso. Son posiblemente interpretaciones sobrevenidas de gente que arrimaba el ascua a su torrija.
Lo que sí está comprobado es que la torrija se cocina y se hace en sus diferentes versiones desde tiempos lejanos, posiblemente desde los romanos. Y que en España fue durante mucho tiempo una especie de reconstituyente para las mujeres recién paridas. Una bomba energética con leche, azúcar, pan, huevo y miel. La tomaban antes y después de dar a la luz, para reforzarse y para recuperarse. Seguramente influía la vieja creencia de que al beber leche la mamá podría dar mejor y más caudalosamente el pecho a su recién nacido. En Menorca a las torrijas se les llama sopes de partera y en su origen se hacían con ensaimadas menorquina o coca bamba; hoy, en su mayoría con pan duro y en clave de aprovechamiento. En Galicia se llaman torradas de parida y buscando se encuentran decenas de referencias en el mismo sentido, desde los sefardíes hasta hoy.
Respecto a la receta tradicional, la evolución ha ido limando y modificando la receta más admitida como original, aunque eso se limita más a los ámbitos profesionales: en las casas reina la torrija de toda la vida. Hoy se encuentra en restaurantes estrellados en versión más o menos libre del cocinero y en obradores, pastelerías y panaderías. Se ven versiones con base de brioche, de cruasán e incluso de pannetone. Pero el pan sigue siendo la clave. Hay quien le mete vainilla, la pasan por mantequilla, le añaden frutos secos, la caramelizan e incluso la enharinan, como si fuera un choco frito. Otros les colocan encima bolas de helados de fruta, de dudosa ligazón; nata montada, mermeladas y siropes a elegir, chorreones de licor, flambeados varios y tuestes o fritos de varias intensidades.
Tampoco es que sea un dulce demasiado exclusivo. Es similar al pain perdu (pan perdido: aprovechamiento) de los franceses, las fatias douradas de Portugal, los arje itrter de Alemania, el pain doré de Canadá (el pan llega a la mesa ahogado en sirope de arce), el grenki ruso (a la plancha y con huevo encima); las fotzelschinitten de Suiza (con compota de manzana), las profesen austriacas (rellena de mermelada de albaricoque) o las avgofétes griegas. En definitiva, donde haya un trozo de pan duro hay una torrija, su versión posmoderna o su hermana internacional.
Cuestión de gustos pero donde se ponga una torrija tierna, esponjosa y cremosa por dentro, con el pan entero por fuera, sin despedazarse, con su azúcar y canela o su miel, que se quite el resto. O no.
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Son un manjar prohibido para los celiacos pero Kiki, que además de excelente fotógrafo es un gran cocinero, las prepara sin gluten.
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