Un artesano reinventa la navidad amasando polvorones con torreznos
Los polvorreznos barren el mercado desde Burgo De Osma con una de las novedades dulceras más estimulantes en mucho tiempo y justo cuando un estudio científico sostiene que los torreznos son “altamente saludables”
l fuego, la rueda, los antibióticos, el colchón, internet y el polvorrezno. Ahí tiene cinco de los inventos más importantes de la humanidad. Los cinco primeros están acreditadísimos y el sexto va camino de la inmortalidad. El nombre de Carlos París, un artesano del dulce, nacido en Burgo de Osma (Soria) hace 56 años, se une al resto de blasonados creadores. No en vano es el responsable de haber unido en una misma receta los polvorones clásicos artesanales y los torreznos crujientes, que todo queda entre el Abión y el Ucero. Este hombre es como el Ferrán Adriá de Castilla -León. Sólo un crack puede crear un polvorón con torreznos y salir vivo del intento.
Un frío – y por lo tanto muy soriano- día de 2021 a Carlos París, propietario de la empresa El Beato, se le ocurrió fusionar el chocolate con el torrezno de Soria. Nació el chocorrezno. Era aquel pequeño paso para el artesano burguense y el primer gran paso para la humanidad. “Pensaba que íbamos a hacer una tontería sin pretensiones, algo reducido para venderlo en el pueblo. Así que solo hicimos 150 tabletas. Pero aquello se disparó: según la Agencia EFE fue la noticia más leída del día”, explica Carlos. Dos años después el chocorrezno original ha tenido parientes: chocolate blanco, negro, con leche y sin azúcar. Lleva fabricadas más de 200.000 tabletas en tres años. Ténganse en cuenta que hablamos de un obrador artesanal, reducido y donde los únicos ingenios mecánicos que intervienen en el proceso son una amasadora y una batidora. Una pequeña empresa que ha pasado de 14 trabajadores a 17. “Tener 17 empleados en el mundo rural es como tener cien en Madrid”, defiende el propietario.
Nace el polvorrezno
Poco después nacería el turrezno, un turrón con torreznos, otra delicia a la que se le añade praliné puro de almendra donde otro le ponen aceite de palma y grasas de ignoto nombre. Otro hallazgo de la factoría París.
Con el éxito del chocorrezno y el turrezno, París se vino arriba, le cogió el gusto a eso de innovar y provocar y decidió que en el mundo del torrezno soriano, que goza de gran fama, había aún mucho recorrido. Dicho y hecho, este año se ha lanzado con el producto definitivo: el polvorrezno. Se inspiró en la disrupción actual de la cocina española – “está de moda hacer cosas raras en la cocina, lo de Máster chef y esas cosas..”- a ese acicate le unió una reflexión: la manteca de cerdo siempre se ha utilizado en la repostería para hacer los dulces y los chicharrones son los restos que quedan cuando se saca la manteca. Así conectó dos mundos que estaban mucho más cercanos de lo que podría intuirse. “Si me gustan los polvorones y me gusta el torrezno nada malo puede salir al unirlos”.
Y, de ese chispazo galáctico, surgió el polvorrezno. Si usted muerde un polvorrezno descubrirá que al sabor del tradicionalísimo polvorón artesano español se le unen unos crunchys sutiles con un delicado sabor a grasa tostada que convierte la pieza de confitería en otra cosa. La eleva, le da vida. Después de comerte un polvorrezno el resto de polvorones parecen apagados, tristes, silentes, como si les faltara algo. Y es que están viudos de torreznos. Se harán sesudos talleres de innovación en los laboratorios más conspicuos para que llegue un artesano de Soria y, pleno de intuición, atrevimiento y sentido del gusto y la lógica, invente un polvorón con incrustaciones de torrezno de Soria al horno. Un hallazgo. Y la receta, compartida, sin misterios: manteca de cerdo, azúcar, harina de trigo tostada sin aditivos, harina de almendra y el torrezno (un 10% y ya desgrasado). Hasta las cajas se montan manualmente en el obrador.
Lonchas de tres milímetros y al horno
Carlos París lonchea personalmente cada torrezno en lonchas de tres milímetros de grosor. Los mete al horno sobre una caja de papel de cocina absorbente para que cuando se licue absorba toda la grasa. Cada kilo de torrezno de Soria se reduce a 300 gramos, que es el resultante que utiliza en la masa de los polvorones. Los otros 700 gramos son pura grasa que se desecha. Desde el anuncio del hallazgo del polvorrezno la vida de Carlos París es uno parar: de estudio en estudio de las televisiones nacionales, entrevistas con medios y mucho tiempo dedicado a atender llamadas de distribuidores interesados. La fuerza de producción de El Beato, puesta al máximo de tracción, da para fabricar unos 800 polvorreznos diarios, que se venden en cajas de doce unidades al muy competitivo precio de siete euros la caja. Sostiene que podía haberlo puesto más caro porque se vende la producción completa cada día y tiene demanda para cuadriplicar la cantidad actual. El polvorrezno está agotado permanentemente, tanto en la tienda on line como en los distribuidores. No dan abasto.
Torreznos: ahora es grasa buena
Como la suerte favorece a los audaces, en plena campaña navideña de ventas, la revista californiana Plos One, una publicación científica especializada, acaba de publicar un informe en el que expertos aseveran que el torrezno tiene más propiedades y es más saludable que algunas verduras y hortalizas como las coliflores, las zanahorias o las espinacas. ¿Ahora qué? Como diría Groucho Marx ¿a quién va usted a creer a mí o a sus propios ojos? Los científicos han clasificado los alimentos atendiendo a sus beneficios y eficacia para alcanzar los objetivos nutricionales en relación con la prevención de algunas enfermedades. Y, contrariamente a lo que creíamos hasta hoy porque era lo que nos habían dicho, explican que los torreznos son una fuente saludable para el funcionamiento cardiovascular y la mejora del sistema inmunológico. Dice el estudio que su elevado contenido en ácido oleico monoinsaturado lo convierte en un alimento “altamente saludable”, así, sin anestesia. Ese ácido oleico, que pertenece a los ácidos grasos omega 9, está presente también en los frutos secos como el aguacate o el aceite de oliva, a los que nadie discute sus propiedades saludables
Eso sí, advierten que el consumo excesivo de torreznos será perjudicial para la salud porque incrementará en sangre las grasas saturadas y los triglicéridos. O sea, es una buena noticia pero no una barra libre para los pecadores.
La cuarta generación en el obrador
París sigue en El Beato con la tradición familiar, que comenzó su abuela Florinda Serrano, quien cuando se quedó viuda cogió una pequeña pastelería en Almonacid de la Cuba (Zaragoza). Carlos tenía nueve años y desde entonces lleva las manos llenas de harina. Trabajan en la firma su mujer y su hija, que es ya la cuarta generación. Su padre, ya jubilado, fue panadero, y cada mañana se pasa por el horno a comprobar la calidad del trabajo. “Estás encantado con éxito de los nuevos productos”, explica Carlos, quien siempre ha sido muy inquieto: en 1997 creó una torta artesana, bizcochos y magdalenas utilizando sierre mantequilla de Soria y productos de primera calidad. Especializados en hacer dulces “de los de toda la vida”, artesanos y sin aditivos, hace doce años se inventó los gamusinos, con dulce de leche y chocolate y ya fue un éxito popular. Hoy sigue buceando en el mundo de los torreznos y anunciando novedades para el año próximo. “Vamos a dar una sorpresa cada año”, dice Carlos París, quien ya ha cogido carrerilla y no hay quien lo pare.
Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio
Muy interesante. ¡Menudo individuo! Sería parecido a la incorporación del aceite de oliva en los polvorones. Aunque no se suprime la manteca de cerdo. Ahí es donde veo la pega.
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