«Un buen barman es un oyente con una sonrisa»
Luis Inchaurraga, mejor bartender de España 2021, publica Más allá del cóctel (Vergara), un manual imprescindible para entender la mixología, su origen y conocer sus mejores creaciones
a profesión de barman se hace con una parte de artista, dos cucharadas del alquimista que llevan dentro, un golpe de psicólogo de barra, 15 ml de técnica, mucho compás para agitar la coctelera o la muñeca de Nadal para mezclarlo con precisión. Se sirve a la temperatura adecuada y se coloca delante de las mejores vitrinas de la hostelería mundial, atento pero discreto, siempre presto y una sonrisa iluminando el rostro. Luis Inchaurraga es uno de ellos. Y de los buenos. Este argentino nacido en Buenos Aires ostenta el título de mejor bartender de España en 2021 y acaba de publicar libro: Más allá del cóctel (Vergara, de Penguin Random House). Llegó a España hace 24 años con mil dólares en el bolsillo y un pasaje abierto para retornar en tres meses. Ya no regresó. Hizo lo que pudo para agarrar su sueño. Trabajó en la construcción, durmió en la calle y gambeteó al hambre comiendo pan con tomate frito de lata durante días. Su escuela de formación House of mixology es hoy referencia, como su Luis Inchaurraga coktails. Asesora a restaurantes y establecimientos de todo tipo y en todo el mundo y no para de crear. Combina los excesos (profesionales) con un punto asceta que le devuelve el equilibrio: “Viaje relámpago a Londres visitando once coctelerías en dos noches probando una cantidad de cócteles que no me atrevo a decir aquí”, lo que compensa con “ejercicio, meditación, yoga y muchas pechugas de pollo, brócoli y arroz integral”.
El libro es un interesante repaso a los orígenes del coctel, una apelación a la memoria como irrefutable cebo para domar paladares, un compendio de conocimientos técnicos, una inmersión en la importancia del producto y la creatividad y un generoso recetario de cócteles inspiradores, apetecibles, sugerentes y pinta de ser deliciosos, sea el Sanguinaccio -elaborado con base de brandy de Jerez- o un Terroir -raicilla La venenosa costa de Jalisco, licor de humo, zumo de hinojo ahumado, zumo de lima y soda cítrica- que te lleva de viaje al México de los chipotles, los ágaves y los ahumados sin moverte de la banqueta alta de la barra.
España vive hoy un momento de agitación coctelera. Parecería que han quedado muy atrás las tres medidas de Gordon, una de vodka y media de vermut seco mezclado, que no agitado de Bond en Casino Royale, pero no. El Vesper Martini sigue vivo. La virtud de la coctelería moderna es que idolatra a los clásicos bien hechos pero sin complejos para volar hacia nuevas recetas.
Pregunta- ¿La suya es la historia de una corazonada? ¿O la de una locura?
Respuesta- Es una locura con corazonada y muchísimo esfuerzo detrás.
P- ¿Un cóctel es química, instinto, paladar, técnica, pasión…?
R- Todo eso, y además un profundo conocimiento y respeto por la materia prima
P- ¿Qué historia tiene que contar un cóctel?
R- Un cocktail puede esconder numerosas historias, pero creo que todas deberían comenzar con su creador transmitiendo el porqué de su creación y la historia que hay detrás de los ingredientes de su elección y de cómo estos interactúan entre sí para crear nuevos sabores.
P- ¿Un cóctel bien definido es un trampantojo? ¿engaña a la entrada y sale por otro lado? ¿Es un juego?
R- En mi opinión un cocktail “trampantojo” busca eso, el engaño visual, de sabor, y está asociado a la coctelería de autor. Los cocktails en general esconden y ofrecen un perfil más directo en cuanto al sabor y no buscan ese efecto “sorpresa” para con el cliente. En un daiquiri de plátano por ejemplo se busca el sabor a plátano, a ron y la acidez de la lima.
P- ¿Un coctelero de la escuela Inchaurraga tiene un sello?
R- El sello que intento inculcar a mis alumnos es honestidad laboral, el compañerismo y buen hacer. Pero sobre todas las cosas, que un barman no solo sirve cocktails sino cualquier insumo que hay detrás de una barra (vino-cerveza-café). Todos estos son vehículos para ofrecer una experiencia al cliente, de esto se trata, de la industria de la hospitalidad.
P- ¿Cuántos cócteles ha creado usted? ¿Cuál es su favorito?
R- Tras más de 25 años he creado muchos, recuerdo con mucho cariño el cocktail que me llevó a la final de la World Class Competition Spain, la cual gané. “El Abrazo de Bulleit”. La receta en forma de maridaje líquido se presenta en 3 partes:
1: El cocktail: Bourbon Bulleit infusionado con arcilla, sidra de hielo, manteca tostada, cerveza negra, bitters, mace y fenogreco.
2: El snack: Almendras, plátano y queso gruyere
3: El chupito sorpresa: un vaso de borosilicato (un vidrio muy fino) con pajita incorporada y hecho a medida para mi cocktail con leche que va cambiando de sabor (maíz ahumado con manteca y arce, piña, pulled pork, palomitas de maíz dulce con caramelo). Para beberlo hay un ritual: se prueba el chupito, se prueba el cocktail y se prueba algo del snack
P- ¿El exceso de creatividad puede devorar el equilibrio del cóctel?
R- La creatividad, bien direccionada, es una herramienta más en el camino hacia el producto final: el cocktail, que tiene que estar en armonía con esta. Cuando el cocktail es muy creativo la expectación aumenta y si el sabor no está en armonía, el golpe es más duro.
P- ¿Hay mucha impostura en su profesión?
R- Lamentablemente sí, vemos barras muy elegantes, bien montadas, con personal de aspecto profesional y muchas veces falla lo más básico, el saludo. Cuando pruebas un cocktail clásico en alguno de estos sitios descubres que las mezclas no están bien ejecutadas y que ciertos productos no son de calidad. Todavía vemos en muchos locales sucedáneos de zumo de limón fresco…
P- ¿Cómo distinguir un buen cóctel de una ocurrencia?
R- Siempre por el equilibrio del mismo y muchas veces el tiempo es quien da la respuesta. Un ejemplo: el Long Island iced Tea, mezcla de 4 ó 5 bebidas blancas, cítricos y azúcar y refresco de cola… una ocurrencia a priori extraña que el tiempo ha posicionado en un cocktail de culto.
P- ¿Un coctelero es un artista, un proletario del shaker o un ilusionista?
R- Piensa en todo lo que ocurre a la hora de crear un cocktail, me refiero desde la concepción mental hasta tener el producto materializado. Y luego ofrecerlo al cliente con la explicación pertinente acerca de los ingredientes, mezcla de sabores (como vimos anteriormente ) storytelling etc. Arte para crear, arte para vender.
P- Perico Chicote, María Dolores Boadas, quien inventó el Cuban Roll u oxigenado, y algún nombre más forman parte de la historia del cóctel en España. ¿No cree que le ha costado demasiado tiempo a la coctelería española jugar en primera división?
R- Ciertos cambios son lentos y dependen de muchos factores. Se requiere tiempo para implantar masivamente la coctelería a nivel cultural. Las personas deciden formarse cada vez más, hay ferias dedicadas, contamos con una riqueza y variedad de productos sin igual, locales diseñados y montados con mucho gusto y el cliente poco a poco va exigiendo más calidad en lo que bebe. Estos factores en proporción a la cantidad de locales que ofrecen cocktails & quot versus los locales que se diferencian del resto sigue siendo poco, y es aquí donde considero que se avanza lentamente, pero a paso firme. Llevo en España desde 1998 y he visto muchos cambios, algunos más lentos que otros, pero lo importante siempre es avanzar y en esas estamos.
P- Perico Chicote decía que más valía un barman simpático y con un trato exquisito, aunque solo supiera hacer un par de combinaciones que uno amargado que manejara mil cócteles…
R- Sabias palabras, como comentábamos antes, nos dedicamos a la industria de la hospitalidad, y eso no se refleja en la cantidad sino en la calidad.
P-Y don Eugenio Gallo, el barman clásico de la coctelería argentina, afirmaba que antes de aprender a ser barman hay que aprender a ser un señor. ¿Cambió el sino clásico y la formalidad del coctelero gentleman?
R- Los tiempos cambian, hoy lo clásico interactúa con lo contemporáneo, con lo moderno. El “ser un señor”, adaptado a diferentes entornos y realidades es atemporal. Primero somo personas, que interactuamos con otras personas, con los compañeros de trabajo, clientes, proveedores) y después somos barman.
P- ¿aunque el buen barman sigue sabiendo no meterse en las conversaciones a las que no lo invitan?
R- Y aunque te inviten, nunca hay que perder la perspectiva de nuestro trabajo: somos oyentes con una sonrisa…
P- ¿estamos en la segunda era dorada de la coctelería? ¿cuál es el lugar de España en esa vanguardia coctelera?
R- Lógicamente suele verse con más claridad en lugares donde hay más recursos, como por ejemplo Madrid, donde últimamente se observan nuevas aperturas de locales con coctelería. Lo interesante es ver esa proyección en otras ciudades de España y poco a poco encontrarnos con interés por implantar la coctelería o mejorar lo que ya se está haciendo en muchísimas ciudades de la geografía española. Este crecimiento exponencial es fundamental para posicionarnos a nivel país, con el tiempo, en una meca para la coctelería.
P- ¿Los cocteleros no son aún tan conocidos como los chefs, se solucionará eso o no hace falta?
R- Me hago la misma pregunta, teniendo en cuanta que hago mucha coctelería gastronómica. He charlado con varios chefs amigos acerca de este tema y veo un condicionante que nos juega en contra para llegar a ese estatus de momento: servimos alcohol.
P- ¿El gintonic ha muerto?
R- Hoy me tomé dos, jajajajajaja. No ha muerto, quizá se ha normalizado un poco la locura colectiva asociada a los perfect serve, los botánicos y toda la parafernalia que surgió con el boom del gintonic. Tan solo puede que, en su justa medida, ya veamos ciertos protocolos de servicio, más normales y por eso no nos impactan tanto.
P- ¿Nos volvimos locos en España inventando fórmulas para servir el gin tonic?
R- Sí, pero si rescatamos la parte positiva de esa locura, el proceso fue muy positivo. Piensa en lo siguiente: nuevas marcas de ginebra, nuevas opciones de consumo, más variedad en cristalería y herramientas para servir el gintonic, más formación, hemos ganado todos (menos al que le servían el gin tonic en 10 segundos jajajaja).
P- En sus cócteles recurre mucho a los jereces ¿es el arma secreto de la coctelería española?
R- Te cuento una anécdota, cuando probé el fino por primera vez, en mi país en el año 1995, me pareció imbebible, claramente era un ignorante. Por suerte el paladar es plástico y luego de muchas catas y estudios termine amándolo y ahora utilizo el jerez en numerosas creaciones. Es un arma más en mi arsenal pero tremendamente versátil. Estamos en el país del jerez y debería utilizarse en muchas más cartas de cócteles que en las pocas que realmente lo usan. Es una pena.
P- ¿Por qué la coctelería japonesa es la mejor del mundo?
R- No me malinterpretes, la coctelería japonesa tiene excelentes cualidades, pero no creo que sea la mejor del mundo. La coctelería japonesa es metódica, técnica, estructurada y ciertamente creativa, ¿de eso se trata la coctelería no?
P- Este blog se dirige a la generación uppers –“experiencia, ganas y rock and roll”- y le habla a los mayores de 45 años interesados en viajar, en el vino, en el deporte, en la familia, en el motor, el sexo, el futuro , la lectura y a otros de menor edad que comparten los mismos gustos…¿Sería tan amable de crear un cóctel para ellos?
R- El 3 de enero he cumplido 46 años, me identifico plenamente con Uppers y el cocktail idóneo es el Old Fashioned, tradicionalmente con Bourbon, unos golpes de angostura, hielo y un terrón de azúcar disuelto. Puedes utilizar una bebida con barrica de tu preferencia para reemplazar el Bourbon, un buen single malt, ron, tequila añejo o reposado , cognac, armagnac etcétera y adaptarla así a tu gusto. ¡Salud!
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