Una Osa con garra
Jorge Muñoz y Sara Peral han disparado la expectación en su nuevo restaurante madrileño, con técnicas y cultura española, francesa y japonesa. Apuntan muy alto
adrid no acabas de comértelo, cada día se inauguran nuevos restaurantes, barras gastro, gastrobares expertos en bocados imposibles. Firmas extranjeras de renombre, locales muy bien costeados que parecen escaparates de joyerías de lujo, cocinas de todo el planeta y cualquier fast-food al que usted aspire. Sobre la gastronomía madrileña no se pone el sol, lo cual no quiere decir que la cantidad y la calidad vayan parejas. De hecho, sin estadísticas oficiales: solo a ojímetro, la mayoría de restaurantes que se abren están pensados más para ser vistos que para comer bien. Ya sabe, esos lugares fashion, multicolores, diseñados y habilitados por primeras firmas de la arquitectura y el interiorismo, con su masicote a todo gas, súper cool y con una oferta gastronómica prescindible que muchos pagan con gusto por sentarse y fotografiarse en las nuevas hogueras de las vanidades de la gastro capitalina. Hay alguna excepción. Eso, alguna. No más. De hecho, hay un público específico para ese tipo de establecimientos. Clientes que no buscan la excelencia gastronómica o una cocina canónica de toda la vida ejecutada para echar dos lagrimones. ¡Buscan la fama¡ Y la fama cuesta, como decía Debbie Allen en Fama (que ya tenemos una edad). Y en estos locales cuesta un ticket medio de 60-70€ comas lo que comas.
Madrid, cantidad y calidad
Madrid no te lo acabas pero la cantidad no es equivalente a la calidad, dicho está. Si quieren un parámetro de uso común quedémonos con las estrellas Michelin. La capital solo tiene un restaurante triestrellado (Diverxo); Barcelona y San Sebastián tienen tres cada una. Seis de dos: Deesa de Quique Dacosta y Guillermo Chávez) , Smoked Room (Dani García), Coque (de los hermanos Sandoval) Dstage (Diego Guerrero) y los de Paco Roncero y Ramón Freixa. Y suma 17 de una estrella. Buena oferta, pero muy pro debajo de las expectativas de una capital como Madrid.
Entre tanto ruido y tanta bengala, cada cierto tiempo un restaurante tira una piedra en el lago de la gastronomía madrileña y lo revoluciona todo. Es el caso de Osa, el restaurante de Jorge Muñoz y Sara Peral, formados en Mugaritz, pero con un palmarés más largo que el del restaurante de Aduritz. Muñoz se inventó un restaurante llamado Picones de María en el barrio de Tetuán de Madrid, una casa de comidas que desafiaba a cualquier mesa, especialmente su cocido. Sara Peral estuvo al frente de Pedegrú y de la Brasserie Lafayyete, donde el coquelet y la raya a la meunière forjaron una legión de adeptos.
En la ribera del Manzanares
En un chalecito discreto y modesto en la ribera del Manzanares los dos cocineros acaban de abrir Osa, un refugio de estilo nórdico, sin demasiadas concesiones estilísticas, lo que anuncia que el protagonismo de la mesa no se comparte. La desnudez aparente de su cocina oculta procesos complejos que conducen a la sencillez. Es la paradoja Osa. Son 20 comensales por servicio. La cocina está abierta a la sala y allí trabajan de sol a sol para elaborar una propuesta de menú diario de apariencia sencilla pero que esconde un trabajo duro y diario, tanto por las técnicas, las texturas, el tratamiento diferenciado de cada producto y la preparación previa de las maduraciones de algunos de ellos. Quien suscribe es incapaz de definir la cocina de Osa. Han dicho de todo de ella: desde naturalista, brutalista, rompedor, provocador o salvaje. Desde luego por ahí va la cosa, porque el trato delicado que le dan a cada producto te transporta a su esencia. Hay guiños españoles, franceses, nórdicos y japoneses, cada cocina con su técnica y sus temperaturas. Entrando verá el ahumador que han montado: una declaración de intenciones. Y en la sala superior del restaurante, accediendo por la escalera lateral, le espera un salón para disfrutar de una copa, un habano y una bodega de aúpa, custodiado por unas cámaras de maduración de embutidos, aves y carnes. En este tiempo es una buena opción comenzar comando algo en la terraza antes de entrar a la sala.
El menú: comienza el espéctaculo
El menú empieza con “Trucha -Bedón- manzano”. La trucha viene de Asturias, del río Bedón, también llamado de las Cabras, y se ahúma con madera de manzano. Se sirve con pan de centeno de Clan Obrador Artesano, la panadería de Nuño García a un tiro de la Puerta de Toledo. Y se acompaña de mantequilla francesa pamplie flor de sal. Es un bocado delicioso que se acompaña de sus huevas. Para levarse un túper. El “Salmonete amasake” es un cilindro hecho con dos lomos semicrudos de salmonete de Chipiona adheridos con lías de sake con un punto más dulce que salado y envuelto en una tempura finísima y acompañado de una salsa tártara suavísima. Sorprende por el profundo sabor del pescado, el tratamiento minimalista de la carne y la finura de la tempura. Lo cocineros gustan de presentar las piezas de pescado y carne crudas en la mesa a la vez que el plato elaborado.
Francia irrumpe en la mesa con la “Rillete de conejo le Mans” que incorpora grasa de cerdo de Le Mans dándole la untuosidad que la falta a la carne de conejo y se sirve sobre una crema de ajo asado y guarnecida por zanahorias baby, rabanitos, naos y cebollas encurtidas. El “Chocolate Faeroerne” es un asadillo de pimientos de Granada que tienen un color similar al cacao: una explosión de sabor sedosa en la boca gracias al pil pil de bacalao de las Islas Feroe que le presta la gelatina. Hay un plato especial, de una singularidad extraña: “Civet lombarda” lo han bautizado. Un rectángulo de col napado con una salsa vegetal de verduras y setas que sustituye a la sangre y simula una salsa de carne para caza.
La “Anguila-anago” es una propuesta potente: madurada y sobre una reducción de sus espinas acabada al modo de un demi-glacé. El plato llamado “Maresme-vaina-espardeña”, es un delicioso bocado de espardeñas del Mediterráneo con guisantes del Maresme y una salsa con las vainas, mantequilla rancia y un caldo corto. Otro guiño a la cocina de caza: “Jabalina: Inoshishi-sando”, la base es una paletilla de jabalina con dos meses madurada en cámara y la costilla tratada como el pastrami, marinado con treinta especias y ahumado. El taco se sirve en un sando o sándwich japonés con una mostaza suave. El resultado es brutal.
Entre todos hay un plato que resulta adictivo. El “Zampone-Daganzo” es una versión madrileña del plato típico de Italia en Nochevieja, donde se acompaña de lentejas salteadas, símbolo de prosperidad. El origen del plato, originario de Módena, es un embutido: meten las carnes más magras del cerdo en la piel de la pata del cochino, formando una especie de salchichón gordo e irregular. Suele aliñarse con nuez moscada, canela, clavo y vino. Se hierve y se sirve. En Osa el resultado es más similar a una pieza de cocido y las lentejas se han sustituido por garbanzos de Daganzo (Madrid). Pura delicia ítalo-española. Hay un plato de codorniz que en realidad son dos. Una salvaje y una de granja para que se distingan las diferencias. La salvaje es de caza y viene de Ciudad Real, se madura en grasa de cerdo, se sirve muy poco marcada y con colmenillas. Muy sabrosa. La de granja llega desde Francia. Esta la hacen como una royal, envuelta en hoja de parra. El guiso es más delicioso que el ave.
Para postre la “Sanguina-kakigori”. La kakigori es una ralladora japonesa (que da nombre la helado del mismo nombre o viceversa) que se aplica sobre la naranja congelada y se acompaña de mermelada. Refresca y abrocha perfectamente el menú.
La bodega es otro cantar, con vinos muy especiales -algunos procedentes de subastas. De la colección particular de Fernando Cuenllas, socio del proyecto. El menú cuesta 180€, vinos aparte.
Lo tienen todo por hacer, apenas han abierto hace un par de meses. Pero no puede ser más interesante lo que proponen Jorge Muñoz y Sara Peral, por originalidad, detalle y atrevimiento. Apuntan a lo más alto. Tiene garra esta Osa.
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