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Una simple taberna que es todo un universo

La Taberna Las Banderas, fundada en 1892, reabre sus puertas en Cádiz tras 30 años cerrada, recuperando y ensanchando la memoria de la ciudad

ermítanme que hoy, excepcionalmente, les hable de mí. Al fin y al cabo, si ha llegado hasta aquí es porque ya nos hemos tomado ciertas confianzas. Aunque en realidad de lo que quiero hablarles es de mi taberna, que es como hablar de todas las tabernas. No es ni publicidad ni autobombo. Solo quiero contarles que recuperar una taberna centenaria es recuperar parte de la memoria de una ciudad, es un viaje arqueológico para desenterrar un sitio donde mucha gente fue feliz. La mía, y la de mis amigos Fernando Pérez, Óscar González y Javier Juárez, es una taberna honrada, antigua, bella como lo son las cosas auténticas, es popular porque es una taberna de barrio, un lugar sin estridencias pero donde nos gusta que se cuelen las voces de la calle, los niños corriendo cuando salen del colegio de La Salle viña y el vendedor de cupones. Nos gusta que el apio del puchero de los vecinos porfíe con el aroma de nuestros guisos. Y suena la vida en el sonido del butanero chocando las botellas vacías llamando a la recarga, en la voz ronca y salina del caletero que vende pescado bajo el azulejo del Cristo de la Misericordia, en el acento gaditano-marroquí de Mohamed, el moro favorito del vecindario con sus cachivaches de plástico y su quincalla de todo a cien; y en el grito de la madre desde el balcón para que el niño suba a hacer la tarea.

Nos enamora el ramo de flores amarillo cadista que nos envía José Mari el del Carrusel saludando la apertura de estas puertas tras treinta años trancadas, las flores del desierto que trae Koki para la hornacina recuperada de una pared de doble fondo, las fotos que nos llevan los vecinos vestidos de primera comunión entre esas paredes, la de Ricardo besando la mano de la Virgen de las Penas en brazos de su padre, la del capataz de la Palma tallando a la cuadrilla y la de Paco Alba afinando la comparsa antes de enfilar el Falla. Nos gusta la foto que alguien nos contó pero que no vimos de aquel maletilla que salió de Las Banderas vestido de torero valiente y plantado para ser corneado en la desaparecida plaza de toros; y las fotos de los viñeros que en Las Banderas se enamoraron y allí celebraron el humilde convite de bodas con pescado frito y un fino Arroyuelo de Chiclana que más quisieran multiplicar en Caná de Galilea. Nos gustan las historias de cuando Jesús Díaz, el propietario y patrón que capitaneó esa nave caletera durante años, les franqueaba el paso por una puerta secreta para gozo de los congregados, sabedores del privilegio de participar en una ceremonia única, privada, velada al común de los mortales, con sabor y el misterio de compartir un vino y unas aceitunas. Las Banderas es una taberna con alma. En 1892 alguien sirvió la primera copa de manzanilla sobre sus nobles tablas.

Se viste nuestra taberna con un verde muy caribe, traído el color del viejo San Juan o La Habana vieja, protegido por un zócalo de verde carruaje que remata la fachada hasta el suelo; se accede por unas puertas de madera que vieron ya tres siglos, como sus herrajes, reverdecidos y enormes, con goznes afilados de tanto y tanto girar. Hay una barra de mármol viejo con arrugas. Los años no pasan en balde. Su filo es redondo, su blanco añejo, opacado y rayado de sentir y sobar tanto culo de tanto vaso y tanto plato. Conserva toda su dignidad funcional, incluidos los boquetes que han sido tapados con un material blanco refulgente que hemos querido dejar así para que no se confunda en una impostura innecesaria con el mármol gastado y hermoso, noble, tallado a mano, nacido en el oficio de la cantería, recio y con memoria de elefante. ¡Ay si ese mármol hablara¡ Esa barra se pliega como la proa de un barco, es tabla de salvación para agarrarse cuando las tempestades de la vida nos desarbolan por dentro y apoyo y refugio cuando hay que celebrar que el sol vuelve a salir.

Tiene nuestra taberna un suelo hidráulico fechado con la gubia del artesano en una fábrica de El Puerto de Santa María en el año de 1920. Ese suelo es un espectáculo, casi dan ganas de comer sobre su loza. Dibujos geométricos, verdes, rojos, blancos. Arabescos pisados y vueltos a pisar y aún así no pierden un ápice de grandeza y hermosura. Tiene la taberna unas paredes con una fábrica de ladrillos original de finales del siglo XIX con restos de piedra ostionera incrustados, es una pared desigual, donde colgar un cuadro es un ejercicio de precisión, un desafío a los niveladores digitales, que fracasan allí como un Dos caballos en el Gobi; es una pared combada, sin alineamientos exactos, alta, curva y porosa: desigual como los días de una vida. El techo conserva los artesonados y los rosetones de un tiempo en el que la ciudad tenía tanta clase que una simple taberna se decoraba con el esmero y la elegancia que la convertía en un pequeño Versalles de barrio. No sé, esa taberna tiene un no sé qué, una vejez febrilmente joven, una belleza desatada. Se ha puesto guapa y lo sabe: se ha dejado tocar por la mano sensible de Luis, Fabián y Ernesto, tres arquitectos que se mueven por el casco antiguo de Cádiz como por catacumbas: los tres vienen con una sonda de serie y tienen el mapa secreto de los aljibes, ese otro Cádiz de oquedades subterráneas que se comunica con el mar, siempre el mar.

Por las tres dobles y enormes puertas y los ventanales de la taberna entra la luz clara de Cádiz y el yodo vivo de la Caleta; el aroma espeso a caballa asada que dobla la calle de la Palma hasta remontar por la antigua calle San Pablo. Y a la mañana, al pasar el mariscaor con el canasto junto a la taberna, se instala en el aire el innegociable dulzor de la hueva de erizo, que se emborracha con la manzanilla Virgen de las Penas, el amontillado Paco Alba y el Palo cortado La caleta de nuestras viejas y jerezanas botas de vino. No hay taberna ni salud sin vino. Esa taberna tiene poso. Sabe tela y se nota. Ha vivido mucho y quiere vivir muchos años más. Por eso recuperar una taberna centenaria es una llamada a la memoria dormida de una ciudad, es ensanchar la vida compartida de todos. Porque traemos al siglo XXI las voces del XIX. Y las imágenes del tiempo con el ojo de Pablo, Kiki, Julio y Fernando, cuatro fotógrafos con alma, como nuestra taberna. Fotoperiodistas que cuentan historias que a veces emborronan un mal texto. Hemos invitado a la taberna a Alberti, a Fernando Quiñones en bañador bajo los pilares del Balneario de la Palma, a Pepe Caballero Bonald, quien estudió Náutica en la otra esquina de la taberna, y a Carlos Edmundo de Ory, que se chupaba los codos cuando estaba fuera de Cádiz porque le recordaba a la sal de su tierra. Desde las paredes de la taberna se ríe Chano Lobato, se mece el palio de las Penas, cantan las coristas y un mar de grandes veleros enfila mar abierto abandonando, con melancolía y pesar, el puerto de Cádiz en aquel 1992 glorioso. Y Ricardo y Antonio nos han construido el espejo barroco que no encontramos en ningún anticuario y nos han hecho un cartel gigante de coloniales muy decimonónico donde se pregonan los vinos generosos, los ibéricos selectos y el laterío fino. Y, sin miedo al dolor, celebrando la vida por venir se proclama formalmente: “Se permite el cante”.

Esa taberna se llama Las Banderas porque desde el castillete de la finca, arriba en la azotea, se hacían las señales marítimas con el juego de banderas a los barcos para que enfilaran el acceso a la ciudad por la costa norte, por la celebérrima playa de la Caleta, donde ya desembarcaron los fenicios, los cartagineses y los romanos entrando por el canal que separaba las islas de Eritea y Cotinussa. Esa es la frontera marina del barrio de la Viña, un barrio finito e infinito con adoquines abajo; y arriba, la bandera blanca de la paz que son esas sábanas ondeantes y tendidas al sol y al viento de levante, que llega domado a los balcones del Barrio de la Viña, esta microciudad con aire napolitano y sangre de Tiro y Sidón, con banda sonora del coro viñero, donde cada piedra de La Caleta tiene nombre y apellidos y donde los pescadores saben más del mar que Neptuno. Un barrio con geografía propia y un desfilar de personajes que lo convierten en un Macondo en adobo.

Si usted tiene la bendita suerte de venir a Cádiz verá que la ciudad está sostenida por palafitos invisibles sobre el Atlántico verdiazul. Le caerá encima el aplastante peso de la historia, la cultura, el vive y deja vivir que es el convivir y la amabilidad sin tacha del gaditano, que se ríe por dentro y por fuera, con inteligencia y afán de resistir más allá del tópico. Si la vida le trae a Cádiz busque una de sus tabernas. La de Jose de la Manzanilla, la Cepa de Bernardo, la Sorpresa de Juan Carlos Borrell, las Motos de Pelayo, el Veedor de Paco Chicón, la de nuestros amigos y vecinos Pepe y Tomás de Casa Manteca, la Tabernita de la calle La Palma. La que quiera. Éntrenle sin miedo, hay mucha sabiduría en esas casas. Mucho Cádiz. Mucha alegría y libertad. Y si quiere también le esperamos en Las Banderas, su segunda casa. Porque si Karen Blixen tenía una granja en África, nosotros tenemos una taberna en Cádiz y nos hace muy felices.

 

 

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

442 Comentarios

  1. Cada días superas tus reflexiones. Hoy, lo bordas con naturalidad, sentimiento y mucho cariño.
    Os deseo de corazón, larga vida con este renovado y seguro, próspero negocio.

  2. Saldría corriendo ahora mismo a empadronarme en Las Banderas e ir degustando con precisión cada vino, tapa y centímetro de esa taberna..
    Gracias por recuperar ese trocito de historia y darle el esplendor que merece Antonio!
    Nos vemos allí .

  3. Magnífico acontecimiento para este niño del colegio La Salle Viña, donde cada tarde jugaba a la maquinita mientras su tía abuela se tomaba su finito y volvíamos a casa como si nos hubiera tocado el cupón. Gracias por hacer posible una vuelta a la inocencia.

  4. Gran crónica Antonio. Con qué delicadeza y sensibilidad nos trasladas al pasado y al presente. Me has emocionado

  5. Desde luego ha sido un recorrido emotivo, si todo el mundo pusiera el mismo cariño y sentimiento con cada proyecto que emprende… ¡Otro gallo cantaría! Espero que muy pronto puedas narrar las historias que se van a empezar a vivir… ¡y van a ser muchas!

  6. Te felicito por tu entusiasmo, contagioso, por tu valentía y por colaborar en la creación de puntos de encuentro, siempre tan necesarios. Pero también, por esta maravilla de artículo, para mi, uno de los mejores que he leído. Tal vez, por describir magníficos recuerdos que te llegan al alma, al alma de un gaditano. Gracias primo.

  7. Allí nos tendrás en poco tiempo . Abrazo

  8. Sublime Antonio

  9. Brillante artículo de Las Banderas. Tu juguete Antonio al que le deseo larga vida. No se puede ir a Cádiz sin pisar las Banderas.

  10. Me gustaría saber la dirección y enhorabuena por esta iniciativa

  11. Qué alegría que hayáis recuperado ese trocito de historia castiza y popular gaditana. Mucha suerte y nueva larga vida a Las Banderas .
    El artículo, como gaditana que soy, me llega hasta lo más profundo. Enhorabuena.

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