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Una taberna son todas las tabernas

Sánchez Magro ofrece un recorrido sentimental y literario por 52 tabernas de Madrid en un libro de cabecera para quien quiera conocer el alma de la ciudad vieja y el pulso de la nueva

ecía Julio Camba: “una sardina, una sola, es todo el mar”. Parafraseando en corto al autor de La casa de Lúculo, diríamos que una taberna son todas las tabernas pero que cada una lo es a su manera y condición. Dice Andrés Sánchez Magro que “cualquier barra es el centro del mundo, de ese pequeño universo que las personas construimos para poder seguir andando en la vida.” Para reforzar ese ecosistema que nos sirve de aliento y soporte, cogió el recado de escribir y colocó en las librerías un exquisito “Tabernas de Madrid. Lo castizo en el siglo XXI” (Editorial Almuzara), una apelación a la memoria colectiva, un canto al amor por la convivencia tabernaria, un recuerdo a sus padres que lo bautizaron en los templos del vino y la compañía y un manual de uso para públicos avisados o para debutantes con ganas de vivir. Es Sánchez Magro poliédrico: multilicenciado universitario, magistrado en ejercicio, exletrado parlamentario, crítico literario y gastronómico, taurino, tabernero en excedencia; gato gourmet y gato de las buhardillas de Chamberí.

El Cairo, Atenas, Roma, Madrid…

Cita el autor, con razón y erudición, a los egipcios y los griegos como primeros taberneros y tabernarios, y con más razón aún se acuerda “de las calles de la vieja Roma que dieron gloria y etimología a los locales donde el vino comienza a tomar carta de naturaleza”. Acierta Sánchez Magro: Columela, primer agrónomo de la historia, adusto y senequista, se echaba las manos a la cabeza –“mi estupor provoca”- por la existencia de “locales donde se enseñan vicios de lo más despreciables, como el preparar comidas que inciten a la gula”, lugares propios de hedonistas y gentes bajo sospecha, con los que el autor guarda parentesco filosófico y una indisimulada simpatía.

Ya en 1476, las ordenanzas madrileñas recogían el oficio de los taberneros, nos cuenta en el libro, lo que acredita el pedigrí tabernario de la capital de España. Fueron una cumbre durante el Siglo de Oro, escenario de pendencias y excesos, de juegos con trampas y dagas oxidadas en la bota, surtidor literario y sanatorio para el alma. El libro cita a Mesonero Romanos, a Ramón Gómez de la Serna, a Antonio Díaz-Cañabate o a Lorenzo Díaz sobre un fondo de paisaje galdosiano como parte del cuerpo literario de guardia que ayudó “a agudizar el ingenio tabernario, la bizarría gatuna para la zarabanda, y que ha ido atravesando los siglos hasta esos estereotipos que han canonizado los cronistas de la villa”.

El vino siempre en el mostrador

No sin cierta melancolía, recuerda las marcas de la historia en las barras de madera -y el rayón profundo en las de estaño- de las recias tabernas madrileñas: “Chisperos, periodistas liberales, el panfleto, la movida de los 80, la Pradera de San Isidro, la guerra civil y el No pasarán. Y el vino siempre en lo alto del mostrador. La historia de Madrid está en sus tabernas”. La taberna se hizo bar, el vino comenzó a competir “con la pequeñoburguesa” cerveza y los callos se entronizaron como tripería esencialista de lo madrileño y plato con trompetería asociada y rango mayor. Y Madrid siguió creciendo y hoy las ajadas tabernas conviven las nuevas tabernas, dignas, perfectas en su modernidad y con prosapia tabernera. No confundir con los gastrobares manejados por camareros vestidos a la funerala que no saben leer el pensamiento del parroquiano ni saben qué es un valdepeñas e ignoran que un vaso de morapio encierra más respuestas que el María Moliner. Valdepeñas es el nombre de oro asociado a la taberna madrileña: surtidor fiel de alegría, según datos de Mesonero Romanos, cronista oficial de la ciudad, de las 1.500 tabernas censadas en Madrid en 1900, un total de 810 solo servían vino de Valdepeñas, que llegaban a diario a Madrid en el Tren del vino, un convoy con 30 vagones repletos de pellejos de vino.

El tabernero, el hombre que todo lo puede

Si no hay ciudad sin taberna, no hay taberna sin tabernero. “Genuino héroe que nos regala por entregas el folletín de nuestra vida. Algo más que un oficio, tribuno de la plebe, sabio de andar por casa, cachazudo, paciente sin pasarse y aspirante a confesor de los pecados que siempre se acaban cometiendo. Ese sacramento que se nos administra, porque vagabundear tiene su recompensa”, los retrata el autor. Capitanes de los galeones de una ciudad sin mar – aunque perita en besugos y rodaballos-, que son a la vez calafates, toneleros, carpinteros, cornetas, capellanes y cirujanos si fuera menester en la nave que gobiernan con destreza y mirada larga de doble fondo. Sostiene Sánchez Magro que tanto los taberneros con trienios en el mostrador como las nuevas generaciones honran el oficio desde el puente de mando siempre que tengan chispa y capacidad acreditada para crear el ecosistema que favorezca el trasiego y la afición a “matar el tiempo”, afición a la que circunscribe a los madrileños.

Viacrucis tabernario: 52 paradas con personalidad propia

El recorrido literario y sentimental empieza en la Taberna de Antonio Sánchez, fundada en 1787 como posada, tienda de vinos y botillería, sita en Mesón de Paredes 13, barrio de Lavapiés, refugio de toreros -entre otros, el hijo del fundador- e intelectuales; y afamado establecimiento para el arte de elaborar torrijas, allí donde Alfonso XIII las encargaba para palacio. Continúa con Casa Pedro (1702) o Casa Alberto (1827), para ir entrando en el siglo hasta inventariar locales de nuevo cuño que mantienen el espíritu y las maneras de la tradición. Así hasta rematar en Marcelino (2017), La Caníbal (2018), ese templo de los vinos naturales, o La Lorenza (2019). “En este siglo XXI el polisémico concepto de taberna se ha desligado formalmente del despacho de vino, de la identidad con la barra de estaño, incluso se aprecia la desaparición del azulejo y de las viejas botellas polvorientas de brandy jerezano. Muchas pugnan por seguir manteniendo el modelo, aunque puedan ser asaltadas por hordas de lectores de guías sobre Madrid”.

En cada episodio del libro irrumpe el alma de la taberna centenaria, se cruzan las historias de los propietarios, el linaje tabernero, los parroquianos censados en la mesa del fondo, los poetas tiesos, el vermú de Reus, las tinajas mimadas por las dinastías sucesivas, la gilda reluciente y un limpiabotas que cepilla, escucha y calla. “Madrid se comprende si se vive de tabernarias maneras. Desde esos ateneos de media pensión se abarca el mundo. Con garbo y esa majeza que algunos llaman chipén”, añade Andrés Sánchez Magro.

Compren ese libro, memorícenlo y salgan a la calle. No es una guía, ni las direcciones de los locales brinda. Busque y halle. Son unas memorias “paseadas y bebidas” de Madrid y sus gentes, un legado de buen gusto y militancia castiza. Dedíquese a las tabernas. Hay más días para los museos. Si baja la voz escuchará a Madrid bebiendo.

*Foto de portada de “Restaurantes y tabernas centenarios de Madrid”.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

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    Soberbio su señoría y soberbio tu. Abrazos
    Hay que llevar a Andres a Cádiz para que escriba otro libro de las tabernas de alli

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