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Vinos de una realeza de clase media

Los vinos servidos en el almuerzo de honor a la Princesa de Asturias costaban entre nueve y veintitrés euros y se anclaban en denominaciones de origen clásicas

a Casa Real no ha sido históricamente una gran aliada de los vinos españoles. Sí con el discurso y en visitas oficiales a centros de producción y bodegas, pero menos con los hechos. A diferencia de otras instituciones, destacadamente el Estado francés, que entienden perfectamente las ventajas de practicar la diplomacia gastronómica y vinícola, la corona española suele ser parca en sus despliegues vinateros, aunque ha habido algunas excepciones. Esta semana ha vuelto a evidenciarse. El menú del almuerzo en honor de la princesa Leonor tras jurar la Constitución incluyó tres vinos. Un blanco, un tinto y un espumoso. De entrada, se echaba de menos un generoso de Jerez o Montilla-Moriles, quizás, y algún dulce de cierre (algo de Navarra, de Lanzarote, de Málaga o de Utiel Requena, por ejemplo). Lo curioso -quizás para muchos, sorprendente- es que ninguno de los tres vinos que se ofrecieron llegaban a los 23€ de precio, algo inesperado en celebraciones de este tipo, aunque no tiene por qué ser necesariamente criticable lo tocante al precio. A la tradición austera pública de la Casa real en este apartado se une el carácter doblemente comedido que el Rey don Felipe le ha conferido a todas las actividades de la Casa Real desde que al Rey emérito se le acumularon las carpetas de los safaris, de sus relaciones sentimentales y de sus asuntillos fiscales y las deudas con la Hacienda española.

Albariño, ribera y cava

El primero de los vinos fue el As Voltas 2022, un albariño (Rias Baixas) de Condes de Albarei que puede encontrar en cualquier página especializada y en supermercados por menos de diez euros. Es un vino muy rico, no confundan valor y precio, un albariño de calidad a buen precio que se sirvió para acompañar el plato de salmonetes con sofrito de tomates y jugo de azafrán.

El tinto elegido fue el Arzuaga crianza 2020, un ribera de la Bodega Arzuaga Navarro, un clásico de los pagos de la casa en Quintanilla de Onésimo, el pueblo donde Aznar comenzaba sus vacaciones jugado una partida de dominó con los paisanos. Es un coupage de tempranillo, cabernet y/o merlot. En una búsqueda rápida por internet lo pueden comprar por un precio que oscila entre los 20 y los 23 euros. Es un vino reconocible, fácil y de consumo diario en miles de bares y restaurantes a precio interesante y sin mayores pretensiones.

El espumoso que cerró el almuerzo y con el que se brindó por la princesa de Asturias fue el At Roca brut, un cava del Penedés elaborado con macabeo, xarelo y parellada, un mix tradicional de uvas de los espumosos catalanes. Es un vino de la bodega Cellers AT Roca que se puede adquirir por menos de 15€. A la parquedad festiva vitivinícola se une un conservadurismo en la elección de las denominaciones de origen. Rías Baixas, Ribera del Duero y Penedés son siempre ganadoras, obvio. Pero abandonando el clasicismo, o rebajándolo al menos, la Casa Real podría aprovechar estas oportunidades que concentran mucho foco para promocionar otros vinos interesantísimos y diferentes que se están haciendo en España: los tintos de la Ribeira Sacra, alguno de pagos artesanales de Castilla-La Mancha, un listán negro de Lanzarote, una mencía del Bierzo, tintos de Salamanca o Madrid, por poner algunos ejemplos. Y tratándose de la Princesa de Asturias, por qué no una carrasquín de Cangas del Narcea. Hay blancos sobresalientes y a precios más que razonables por toda España: en Rueda, en Montsant, los vinos de pasto de Cádiz, alguna treixadura de Orense, de Terra Alta, Ribeiro o algun coupage con la prensal blanc mallorquina. Incluso con los espumosos podrían arriesgar y probar alguno gallego o de Aragón. En España hay 67 denominaciones de Origen, es una pena limitarse al ramillete de las más clásicas.

Romanée- Conti o una camiseta de fútbol

Pedro Ballesteros Torres, uno de los pocos Master of Wine españoles, explica en su libro Comprender el vino (Planeta Gastro), cómo la frialdad de la realeza española viene de lejos. A Felipe II le atribuye la responsabilidad de adoptar los cánones y los vinos de Borgoña. Carlos III solo tomaba alguna copa de un dulce canario y su esposa, que era sajona, le pegaba al champagne. Fue Juan Carlos I el rey que más se interesó por los vinos y con su actividad oficial -y privada- ayudó a promocionarlos, pero sin romper excesivamente la anquilosada relación de la Casa Real con nuestros vinos. Cuando abdicó, brindó con su hijo con un Castillo de Ygay de 1925 procedente de la bodega real. Algo es algo. Y en la boda del actual Rey se brindó con Imperial Gran Reserva 1994 de Cvne, con un albariño de Terras Gaudas y un cava de Segura Viudas.

Ballesteros contrapone a Francia y España en estas lides. Macron le regaló al presidente chino, Xi Jinping, una botella de Romanée-Conti de 1978, considerado uno de los mejores vinos del mundo y cuya cotización -si es capaz de conseguir uno- alcanza los 25.000 euros la botella. En 2018, durante su visita oficial a España. Felipe VI obsequió a Jinping con un balón de fútbol firmado por los jugadores de la selección española y una camiseta con el nombre del líder chino.

La bodega de La Zarzuela

La Zarzuela tiene una bodega con más de diez mil botellas, en su mayoría procedentes de regalos o adquisiciones de don Juan Carlos y Don Felipe, quienes también tienen barricas reservadas en diferentes bodegas. Y aunque la existencia de tal bodega pertenece al ámbito privado de la familia, hace unos años Patrimonio encargó que se ordenara y clasificaran las botellas. Se adquirió arena de playa del Índico para el suelo de la bodega con el objetivo de preservar la humedad. Quim Vila y Miguel Laredo, dos expertos acreditados, hicieron el trabajo y se toparon con una extraordinaria colección de vinos nacionales e internacionales.

El menú del pasado martes incluía de primero un consomé de pularda con picada de setas y brotes tiernos, los mencionados salmonetes y una mousse de chocolate negro con aceite de oliva, gelatina de brandy y sopa de cacahuetes. Tampoco hubo concesiones en los platos. Podría decirse que fue una celebración homologable con una boda de clase media. Sin duda, lo mejor que podría pasarle a la Casa Real es que sus conciudadanos la percibieran como una familia razonablemente normal insertada en la clase media española. Quizás ese anhelo empiece ofreciendo a sus invitados el mismo vino que usted podría ofrecerle en casa, aunque a la vez se malogre una oportunidad para colocar, sin complejos, a los vinos españoles en el centro de la escena.

Instagram: @anthdezrodicio / Twitter: @AHRodicio

188 Comentarios

  1. Pepe Tomás el noviembre 4, 2023 a las 11:53 am

    Querido Antonio, al margen de estar de acuerdo contigo en el punto de vista sobre la oportunidad perdida de promover otras d.o. de vinos nacionales en una ocasión en la que el foco mediático está encendido. Me gustaría darte mi opinión al respecto abriendo el espectro e intentar entender esa decisión de una forma más amplia, confesando de antemano que mis gustos vinícolas están en Jerez, Canarias,
    Ribeiro, Aragón, Jumilla y también La Rioja por qué no, tengo que admitir que cualquier elección podría ser discutible precisamente por dejar fuera a otras que son igualmente merecedoras de ponerlas en la luz del foco que la ocasión propugna.
    Desde luego, preferiría una campaña de promoción de los vinos nacionales más intensa, extensa y sin complejos, pero me parece que la filosofía de la Casa Real va más por la de no significarse en muchísimos aspectos y eso desde luego no va con mi opinión.
    En cualquier caso, todos llevamos dentro un seleccionador nacional de fútbol o incluso un tertuliano político y social, y eso sí que es algo más que común en cada español querido Antonio.

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